Community Forums

Bruce and Jenna · 07-23-2008, 07:33 PM

So my gray water handle is gettin' hard to pull out and push in compared to the silky smooth motion of the black and fresh water handles. How can a guy lube that control wire, since someone sealed up the bottom with black board from stem to stern. (I'd take a picture of that black expanse, but it would just be, well, black.)

Bruce and Jenna · 07-23-2008, 07:33 PM

So my gray water handle is gettin' hard to pull out and push in compared to the silky smooth motion of the black and fresh water handles. How can a guy lube that control wire, since someone sealed up the bottom with black board from stem to stern. (I'd take a picture of that black expanse, but it would just be, well, black.)

rockintom · 07-23-2008, 07:42 PM

Hey Bruce,

My grey handle control is alot tougher than the others also. I used to worry about it, tried the Thetford drain valve lube (pricey) in the grey tank and it very temporarily improved. I've heard some folks adding cooking oil to the grey tank to lube the valve. I don't know about that. Seems like it would coat the level sensor to me. My grey seems to stick in the open position if I leave it open more than 3 days. I gently work it back and forth and never yank or make rough movements. I probably haven't been much help...just jabbering as usual. I'll be interested to hear what others say! Happy travels! rockin'

MakinSmoke · 07-24-2008, 02:55 AM

I'm interested in this topic also as I have the same problem as Bruce but mine is not a difficult as Tom's.

Alright, you know I get no points for being mechanical but....
What would be wrong with spraying penetrating oil on the shaft of the valve handle when it was out and them gently working it. Perhaps the stiffness is in that part as opposed to the control wire?

Where is "Workshop" anyway?

Workshop · 07-24-2008, 03:57 AM

Below is part of a post I did for "101" on the waste system on my unit. Believe much the same as yours. The top left photo shows the black on the right and gray on the left. Believe part of the resistence that is felt on the gray is due to the 'loop' of the gray cable. The black is much a straight pull, when the gray is pulled not so. Mine is likewise tighter than the black.

I don't know how you deal with your gray tank during daily use, I normally keep my valve closed, even with full hookup, and dump every couple of days. They way any little particles of food or what ever doesn't have a chance to settle in the channel of the valve's gate or knife as I've heard it called. Can't say I've taken one appart but would think it Has the same makeup of the gate in the bottom of the toilet where a rubber gasket is on one or both sides of the gate.

Keeping the cable section thats pulled out clean and lubed can't hurt. Would have to crawl under the Beast and pull those Black things down to look at the valves closer at this time. You know how memory is.

Doesn't the current models have the access panels the same as the ones I've posted? This is the second time I've heard the bottom is sealed, trying to figure out how one gets in there.

Workshop was lookin' and thinkin'.

rockintom · 07-24-2008, 04:22 AM

Work and Bruce,

Forgot to mention this on my original post. But putting in the drain valve lube did help some for a short time, indicating to me that the valve is more the issue than the cable in my case (I do realize the cable is looped and longer, not helping the situation. leverage issues). I have a friend that has a early 2001 Excel that they have FTed in that is going into it's 8 year now. After the 3rd year he broke a cable and then replaced his valves(grey and black) with the high end electric and he swears by them. No more worrying about when the cables are gonna break! Donna and I are the only persons controlling the cables on ours. I'm just afraid someone would yank and tug on these thing and the cable would snap (call me a worry wart). Those cable aren't the most robust system I have ever seen. So far, so good. Ol' Gentle rockin'

John Deere Green · 07-24-2008, 10:12 AM

Mine got so bad it would not shut completely a few years ago. The problem wasn't the cable, it was the valve. I don't know why it got so tight. The replacement is still working ok, but is starting to get a bit tight. I try to remember to use holding tank chemical in the grey water tank from time to time to lubricate the valve.

I replaced the gray water valve by crawling in the storge compartment and working through the access doors on my unit. Not real easy or convenient to do.

If you do replace the valve, use some grease to hold the o-ring in place while your putting it all back together and tightening the screws as you are pretty much working blind and can't see the o-ring come out of place. It will save you from having to do it twice (like me).

- Steve

Bruce and Jenna · 07-25-2008, 06:50 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Workshop:
Doesn't the current models have the access panels the same as the ones I've posted? This is the second time I've heard the bottom is sealed, trying to figure out how one gets in there.

John Deere Green
I replaced the gray water valve by crawling in the storge compartment and working through the access doors on my unit. Not real easy or convenient to do.
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Are you guys talking about the carpeted sliding doors in the basement storage area, which hide the utility pipes and other gizmos? (I recently cut out the fixed part above the doors while trying to remove my Autoformer for repairs.)

I haven't ever crawled under the coach from stem to stern. I'm too tall, plus I always wear a hat.

Workshop · 07-25-2008, 01:26 PM

I thank you need to take that hat off for the sake of science and look, not crawl under your unit and see if those access panels are there?!?!?!

The pictures I posted were taken through those access areas after the panels were removed. Simple to get to the valves that way.

By the way, I enjoy your Blog!

Chris

Endeavor2BnC · 07-25-2008, 02:16 PM

Here's what I do to hopefully prevent the gate valve from sticking:
1. Use a sink strainer to prevent most refuse from going done the drain. We make sure dishes and pots are well scraped before going into the sink.
2. Use something in the gray water tank to help clean it out. We put a small amount of chemical in it occasionally.
3. Never leave the valve open for continous drain. This allow sediment to build up in the vavle track preventing it from closing. Let it get almost full and then drain. It doesn't hurt to partially fill the tank after draining to flush with clean water occasionally.
4. When draining the tank, slide the valve open and closed to help clean the valve track.

So far this has worked for us. I'd sure hate to replace either valve.

John Deere Green · 07-25-2008, 02:23 PM

Bruce an Jenna,

Yes, I went through those sliding carpeted doors in the basement storage area to change the valve.

- Steve

Bruce and Jenna · 07-27-2008, 07:58 AM

So is this the door you mean? And, yeah, I see the near screw getting loose. Another maintenance area.

Workshop · 07-27-2008, 08:29 AM

Thanks for the update. Much the same except I have two access panels rather than one long one. Mine also is a fiberglass panel where yours appears to be another material and much thicker. Would assume once the panel is removed the waste valves can be accessed for service. I feel better knowing there wasn't a change to where they were only serviced through the storage compartment area.

Workshop · 07-27-2008, 09:37 AM

Bruce, being nose-ie as I am, I transfered your photo into my photo program and lightened it to see the panel better. Being one of those people without anything to do....I counted the screws on the panel and if I am seeing what I think???, the screws are not equally spaced or you have a screw or two missing on the road side of the panel.

This has nothing to do with your prior job!