How to reseal the black tank flange?

[Bruce and Jenna]

[If flange is the right word.]

My black tank opening is leaking again. Right where the flange meets the tank, not at the pipe.

Earlier this year, I think that the dealer sealed it with JBWeld. But not sure. Do you have suggestions on repair?

Notice that the opening in the plywood ain't cut right. Hard to seal it all around. Sure don't want to chance cutting into the tank in that tight space.

[JohnRR]

If your not looking for something to make a rigid seal/repair to hold the pipe in place 3M makes a seam sealer that seals just about anything as long as the surface is clean.

It's available in any auto parts store about $19.00 a tube.

[rockintom]

Bruce,

By the picture, I can't see the area that is leaking. I would think the plywood is causing a bind on the flange and that may be causing the repeat failure. I would figure a way to cut out the plywood to open that area up. To seal it I would work hard at getting the area very clean and then use an ABS glue. Most of it is a black sealer but PI has been using the yellow ABS sealer since about 2007 and still using it today. I don't know if there is any difference in the sealers. Still can't see where the leak is coming from since I don't see the leak. Can you tell if its in the front or rear or ? I bet work will chime in and have an idea of some tool that you could open the plywood opening. rockin'

["007"]

If you use a sheet rock knife you can adjust depth of cut. Just draw it along what looks like a metal ridge a few times and should cut our 1/4" plywood. Should give you better access to the whole ring around tube.

[Workshop]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce and Jenna My black tank opening is leaking again. Right where the flange meets the tank, not at the pipe. Earlier this year, I think that the dealer sealed it with JBWeld. But not sure. Do you have suggestions on repair? Notice that the opening in the plywood ain't cut right. Hard to seal it all around. Sure don't want to chance cutting into the tank in that tight space.

Depending on where the leak is located....under the ply overhang or in an accessable area....would depend if the plywood overhang would need to be removed. It does create a problem having it there and if you could remove it off the flange I would do so. I would take a wild guess and say the plywood flooring is 1/2 inch and not 1/4 as was posted earlier.

I would drain the tank and see if there is any movement in the top of the tank....meaning the original seal was broken/weakened by the movenent....is the pipe going to the tank at 90 degrees from where it comes into the tank or at a slight angle. If not at 90 degrees, that pressure on the flange and pipe might be a cause of it failing.

Might not be easy or something you want to do...but open up your basement access and see if the ends of the tanks are visuable. If they are, inspect your hanger straps and ensure that the tank is supported and none of the straps are broken...or see if you 'have the play' to move the tank a 1/2" or so to center the flange back into the opening. Thought being that the tank has shifted slightly in the straps since installed. This might be easier to check, than cutting is the other option.

This is the flange coupling that is connected to the tank, bottom side. It is glued using an ABS glue. As the tank is made of an ABS material, it is important to use a glue labled to ABS application. Most glues are black in color, but there are other colors, that when applied will show the coverage area, in this case yellow.





This is the side of the coupling that is seen and where the pipe is inserted. For information and learning....notice a darker circle, inside of the coupler's opening, this is a lip that prevents the pipe from passing through the coupling....the pipe stops there. I mention this because it has been mentioned many times when someone mentions having waste tank issues that the problem could possibly be that the vent or waste pipe is extending to far into the tank....well....unless someone spends the time to modify the couplings, this is where it stops. Where it is located, pretty much even with the top of the tank.




I guess determing the correct repair either short or long term would be where the leak is located and how much it leaks. If small, I would clean the area, rough it up and apply an ABS repair patch. I came across the Plasti-Mend site yesterday....Considering it has been repaired before and failed, depending on how much patch repair is there, it might need to be removed. I know that JD Weld makes a plastic repair material, never used it ...YET...that might have been applied before.

I would try an apply something that will remain somewhat flexable considering it's location. You only need to seal the fitting and not support something you have to drill into. If the entire flange fitting is loose, you can always cut the pipe, remove the fitting and install a new fitting and short section of pipe and couple them together with this:




Hope this helps,

workhorse

[Bruce and Jenna]

I feel proud that I used the correct word. FLANGE! Hahahaha.

Good ideas all. I follow your meanings directly. Since I'm on the road right now, I'll try to patch it with ABS sealant temporarily. Then I'll check the straps when I return to my home park in March.

I remember Rockin checked his straps a while ago and replaced one or more broken ones.
"I put heavier straps (22 gauge plumbers strap) and used #14 lag bolts to secure." Could only help I reckon.

Thanks to Work for the info and to Tom for that photo album of his gray tank work Tom & Donna Clapham's Albums. Tho I don't know why he chose that music.

Boy, that Plasti-Mend site has a lotta info.

Oh yeah, how would you suggest I cut through that 1/2" plywood? 007 suggested a utility knife, but I don't know if this is practical for such thick plywood. On the other hand, it sure is a tight space.

[Barrier2]

I really think that you will have to cut that plywood. Harbor Freight is selling a Multi Function Cut off Tool last price about $25. #67254. From what I can see it looks like it would get in there. The cut-off blade only travels in a small arc and is easy to control. After that sealing should be easier to do.
Partial sealing in those areas never seem to work for me I end up having to do it again.
Good Luck!
Robert

[rockintom]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce and Jenna Thanks to Work for the info and to Tom for that photo album of his gray tank work Tom & Donna Clapham's Albums. Tho I don't know why he chose that music.

It be 'cause I gots class!!! What should I have used??? "Red, red, wine" by Neil Diamond?? Actually that is a good song!!!

[Bruce and Jenna]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barrier2 I really think that you will have to cut that plywood. Harbor Freight is selling a Multi Function Cut off Tool last price about $25. #67254. From what I can see it looks like it would get in there. The cut-off blade only travels in a small arc and is easy to control. After that sealing should be easier to do. Partial sealing in those areas never seem to work for me I end up having to do it again. Good Luck! Robert

Looks like a nice tool. Currently $35. Makes me realize I should try my Dremel too first. I think it has a boring head I could plunge in gently. Or might be able to work the cutter wheel in at least part way.

Cut out that plywood. Seal all around. Enough for coupla months till I get home. I'm on it!

[Workshop]

The Multi Function tool would be a good choice and one that I would try if it was something I would have to do....at least for most of it. If you remember I used the Bosch Max Multi-X when I did the repair to the header/short wall last year. Bought it to do that repair and find that I now use it for other projects. On the 1/2" plywood, it should cut slow enough to give some control so you don't cut through the tank. When I was cutting through the 2x6 material that made up the wall framing, I got the 'visual feel' of when the blade passed through the wood and hit that 'little air space' between the framing and the exterior fiberglass sheeting. If you haven't used one before, practice on something to get the feel for the tool before you start...only because of where your cutting.

007 suggested using a tool normally used for drywall. If you are going to use a hand saw...use one that has aggressive teeth near the tip of the saw as it will the the area that will be doing the work. As he said you will have to drag the saw to cut rather than the plunge and cut across the material.




If I was to start this project, I would cut the two short sections at the top and bottom and then the long run. One thing about plywood is the different layers that plywood is made up of. If you wanted to control the cut and the material removed, cut a section an using a chiesl or straight screwdriver...pry that layer out to lower the depth and cut the next layer. As you don't have to have a finished cut and only to expose the edge of the flange.

You might want to drain the tank, if you can slide a little something between the tank and the area under the plywood...to give a little more space between the two before the cut. The plywood already sits on the edge of the flange, this already give you some space to start. But you have to be carefull because the tank will cut pretty quick if using the Multi tool or your too aggressive.

workhorse

[rockintom]

Bruce,

I think work is on the button with the Multi tool. I thought I would never say this......but us FT RVers....part time repairers, could use a cheaper model tool to do one or two jobs a year. When one had to make a living with tools, I wouldn't advise using cheapy tools. So here goes....Harbor Freight.

Variable Speed Oscillating Multifunction Power Tool

I've seen these in the paper for $39.00 with a coupon. Not bad. After selling about $45,000 worth of tools when we went FT and into another passage of life....it's hard to shell out the big bucks for tools. Anyway we're on "a fixed income now" End of what ever you wanna call this.....verbable spewage seems appropriate. rockin'

[Still Working "NOT"]

Will Bruce, I guess we have something to do tommorow. I'm to lazy to walk over to tell you. It's so far across the street. Now Tom would have it fixed by now.

[Bruce and Jenna]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Still Working "NOT" Will Bruce, I guess we have something to do tommorow. I'm to lazy to walk over to tell you. It's so far across the street. Now Tom would have it fixed by now.

Now see. I don't need to buy tools. Just wait till someone better equipped shows up.

Yesterday, I bought a 9" long chisel to use with my Dremel. But I'll see what Larry comes up with.

WS - Thanks for advice on cutting plywood.

[rockintom]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce and Jenna Just wait till someone better equipped shows up.

Yeah.......that what she said!!!