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Old 07-30-2015, 06:26 PM   #15
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Here's our switches Tom. The ones on the right are OEM. The ones on the left are my spares while waiting for replacement from Lippert.
That is what my panel looks like also. The switch I ordered from Lippert on the 19th came UPS yesterday but also has the entire wiring harness. I unplugged the original switch from the existing harness. Is there any real reason not to use the original wiring? Understand, wiring and I generally don't play nice together.

Joe
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Old 07-30-2015, 09:22 PM   #16
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Hey Joe.....there must be a reason they sent you the harness too.....I'd call or email Lippert for an explanation. They should have included an explanation in the mailing. Can you see any physical difference, ie in line resistor, capacitor, etc.?? rockin'
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Old 07-31-2015, 07:39 AM   #17
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The switch I ordered from Lippert on the 19th came UPS yesterday but also has the entire wiring harness. Is there any real reason not to use the original wiring?

Joe
Hi Joe, I was surprised that the switch I recieved from Lippert had the wiring harness included.

But to answer your question, no you do not need the harness. Just remove the harness then swap the switch, five minute job.
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Old 08-01-2015, 03:16 PM   #18
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OK Rob, here my old timer. It's clear they figured out what to do with all those old fresh water boxes!!! Mine is outside an yours is in the propane box. No wise cracks on the dirty-nasty switches....I'm gonna havta have a talk with my detail man!
OK....I've received a lot of comments regarding the "cleanliness" of my switch plate. Normally, I keep stuff pretty decent, but if it's hid behind a door.....look out. Here's a couple of pix after a clean up. The labels washed out with the cleaner I used. Oh well, after 4+ years of using it, I think I got it down!!!
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Old 08-01-2015, 04:18 PM   #19
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permanent marker works well. One never knows when a brain cell might short out. :-)
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Old 08-01-2015, 04:25 PM   #20
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Those Lippert switches look like a Carling rocker. Wonder if they would fit? I'd think they'd be higher quality.
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Old 08-01-2015, 04:50 PM   #21
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Hey Joe.....there must be a reason they sent you the harness too.....I'd call or email Lippert for an explanation. They should have included an explanation in the mailing. Can you see any physical difference, ie in line resistor, capacitor, etc.?? rockin'
The reason may be as simple as that Lippert outsources their harness operation so they do not have switches but they do have harnesses. I would not worry about it.
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Old 08-02-2015, 07:02 PM   #22
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we had one switch go bad the day we picked up our unit. dealer replaced. had another switch go bad just recently just after one year. the rocker has no resistance when you push it back and forth. took the switch apart and the plastic pin broke off the rocker part. I was able to drill a small hole through the rocker and into the pin and glue in a small nail. all works fine now. the plastic pin seems to be the weak point.
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Old 08-02-2015, 07:36 PM   #23
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rfh,
Rob17 brought one of his failed switches over to happy hour yesterday and I see what you are talking about. No rocker feel. We didn't take it apart, however, your explanation makes perfect sense. And your fix may be the best out there right now. For what they charge for that switch....you'd think..... rockin'
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Old 08-04-2015, 05:09 PM   #24
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Here's our switches Tom. The ones on the right are OEM. The ones on the left are my spares while waiting for replacement from Lippert.
Those JR Products switches, do you have a product number? Was at my local dealer today and they had a rocker switch but only had 4 connectors with 2 jumpers and were designed for electric rather than hydraulic landing gear.

I think I found a switch on Grainger's web site that I think will work and it is only $10 or so, but it has a 20 amp rating rather than 16 amps for the OEM. Has 6 tabs and fits the plate opening.

Comments?

Joe
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Old 08-04-2015, 06:19 PM   #25
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Those JR Products switches, do you have a product number? Was at my local dealer today and they had a rocker switch but only had 4 connectors with 2 jumpers and were designed for electric rather than hydraulic landing gear.

I think I found a switch on Grainger's web site that I think will work and it is only $10 or so, but it has a 20 amp rating rather than 16 amps for the OEM. Has 6 tabs and fits the plate opening.

Comments?

Joe
I found by description a set of the JR rocker switches. But they have a pic of the on/off switches, so don't know what the deal is. Say 16 amps. Ran into several websites with the same deal. I'd say a call to JR is in order. rockin'
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Old 08-04-2015, 07:16 PM   #26
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I think I found a switch on Grainger's web site that I think will work and it is only $10 or so, but it has a 20 amp rating rather than 16 amps for the OEM. Has 6 tabs and fits the plate opening.

Joe
Does the switch have ON - OFF - ON with the ONs being momentary?
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Old 08-05-2015, 03:36 PM   #27
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Does the switch have ON - OFF - ON with the ONs being momentary?
https://www.grainger.com/product/CARLING-TECHNOLOGIES-Rocker-Switch-10C583?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/10C582_AS01?$smthumb$

This is the switch I found at Grainger. It is a Carling DPDT rocker switch. I think this may be a direct replacement switch and should fit the panel opening.

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Old 08-05-2015, 05:05 PM   #28
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That looks great Joe. That's a closer replacement than anything I've found. Let us know how it goes.
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