leveling on setup

Brewer & Nancy · 12-21-2008, 01:52 AM

Just bought 09 Excel Limited 35TKE.When setting up I had trouble leveling unit. Unit has independent hydralic leveling system-electric rear stabilzer jacks. I place carpenter levels on the floor in the center by the kitchen area and also on the belly floor by the jack control unit. Thought I had it level but still missed it.
Question:Tricks you use to level the unit. Tks in advance.

Brewer & Nancy · 12-21-2008, 01:52 AM

Just bought 09 Excel Limited 35TKE.When setting up I had trouble leveling unit. Unit has independent hydralic leveling system-electric rear stabilzer jacks. I place carpenter levels on the floor in the center by the kitchen area and also on the belly floor by the jack control unit. Thought I had it level but still missed it.
Question:Tricks you use to level the unit. Tks in advance.

BookIIRoadtrash · 12-21-2008, 02:28 AM

Brewer, I level the width of the trailer first and then the length. Some times you might have to drive on a piece of 2”x8” to raise one side of the trailer to level. After I am level with the width I dolly down and after unhooking I level the length. I use a torpedo level and place it on the king pin box for the width and under the bedroom slide out flange for length. By having the independent front jacks and the electric rear jacks you can still level 2” of the width leveling. I never spread my wings until I have the trailer level. A lot of this is by trial and error and it will get easier for you the more you do it. Good luck, Book2

Jim & Bona · 12-21-2008, 03:26 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by book2roadtrash:
... A lot of this is by trial and error and it will get easier for you the more you do it. Good luck, Book2 </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Nancy's "tolerance range" will also increase as time passes.

Happy travels.

Dan Hen · 12-21-2008, 12:25 PM

1st figure out what you want to be level, we chose the counter by the sink, get this into a level position and then adjust your your out side level to this position. We have two levels, one front to rear and one side to side by the water shut off manifold that is very easy to use to level the trailer.

Every one have a great Christmas and good new year.

Dan

Steve,N,Jan · 12-21-2008, 03:29 PM

I agree that tolerance ranges increasing over time .Our first leveling experience was a night mare. I leveled the triler side to side useing the rear bumper ,then checked the pinbox ,they were not the same. But I figured the frame was right so I leveled front to back useing the window frame.
After checking the counter top it was way off every direction.
So after that I got the fridge close to level ,I think this is the most important appliance and placed levels in front and on the side to match that.Now the fridge is level and everything else is close enough.

Steve,N,Jan · 12-21-2008, 03:35 PM

Now to clearify my first time ws with a older used unit Our Excel had levels on it when we got it and has levels in fridge that match we never walked around checking the floors and counter

LindaH · 12-21-2008, 04:52 PM

As long as the rig doesn't feel obviously off one way or another as you walk around inside, the refrigerator will be happy. The rig doesn't have to be perfectly, 100% level in all directions...if that's what you're trying for, you'll drive yourself crazy trying to get level!

rockintom · 12-21-2008, 07:19 PM

B&N,
I found this a bit challenging in the beginning also. I put 2 levels in the roadside inside propane tank wall area. One side to side and the other front to rear. Initially, I got the rig as level as possible and I used a big level on the kitchen floor. Once level, I installed the 2 levels in the propane tank area. From now on, I just open the door and look inside at the levels and do my set up. No more using the levels inside the rig. Works for me. Easy. Tom

Steve R. · 12-22-2008, 11:19 AM

I installed one of those large levels that mount to the pinbox that you can see from the tow vehicle. It is precise enough to determine whether leveling blocks are needed under the wheels. I also did the same thing as Tom and installed smaller levels near the jack controls to get it 'just right'. The suggestion about leveling side to side first before front to back is a good one too.

Workshop · 12-24-2008, 05:24 AM

Not having the Hyd units, I do the same as most, with the Level Master on the pin, I level the unit side to side....if needed with boards beneath the wheels. Unhook and use the front landing gear to obtain front to back. I have used the independant landing gear to raise/lower one side just a 'little' to level the front side to side at times. I use a level called HOOKUP MEMORY that is mounted on the side, next to my jack controls, that is used to level front/back. I also use it's movable index to help when hooking up to leave.

BARKER MFG made the rear stabilers on my unit, they have a #1500 limit and use for a little lift but mainly to stabilize the unit.

And like most, the tolerance level varies, to me front to back is more important, but don't spend a lot of time trying to get the perfect 'level'.

Bruce and Jenna · 12-25-2008, 07:57 PM

It hurts me to say it, but I agree with Rockin. One level for the length on the exterior, one level in the util area for the width.

I use the hydraulic jacks too. It's a snap. They'd need to take that hydraulic control from my cold dead hands .

BTW - at departure, if my slides have a lot of water on them, I retract the rear jacks and rear stabilizers, then raise the nose with a push of two buttons. Ha ha ha!

Cold dead....