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Old 04-08-2007, 10:52 AM   #1
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I am confused on how the LP swtch over valves work as when we took delivery of our unit in June 2006 we had a fair bit of discusion and exploration of this and the general conceuse was they do not change automatically and that you must select wich tank to draw from by the direction each valve is pointed. So lets say we are drawing from the curb side when it goes empty the red will show and we then must turn valve to be able to use street side tank?
In a earlier post and in my owners manual it says this should be automatic. At the dealer we did try to test it by shutting curb side LP tank valve and switching valve and it did not aoutomatically start drawing from street the way we did it. What am I doing wrong or could it be a mechanical problem? How can I check it
Please help
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Old 04-08-2007, 10:52 AM   #2
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I am confused on how the LP swtch over valves work as when we took delivery of our unit in June 2006 we had a fair bit of discusion and exploration of this and the general conceuse was they do not change automatically and that you must select wich tank to draw from by the direction each valve is pointed. So lets say we are drawing from the curb side when it goes empty the red will show and we then must turn valve to be able to use street side tank?
In a earlier post and in my owners manual it says this should be automatic. At the dealer we did try to test it by shutting curb side LP tank valve and switching valve and it did not aoutomatically start drawing from street the way we did it. What am I doing wrong or could it be a mechanical problem? How can I check it
Please help
Paul,Roxanne,3YOCharlie
2007,30'RSO
2006,Duramax,CC,DRW,TV.
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Old 04-08-2007, 01:36 PM   #3
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I'll be interested in hearing others experience here. In my Montana, there was an automatic cutover feature. I know it worked as I have drawn both tanks down to empty.
During the walkthrough of our new L36CLO, the technician told me that the cutover was not automatic...it was manual and when the stove failed, I would have to go outside and turn the handle manually. That did not make any sense to me but since this is my first Excel...what do I know?
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Old 04-08-2007, 02:21 PM   #4
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Paul,
Refer to this topic that appears to address the same issue and pay particular attention to the reply by "Highgturn" and his corrective action.
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Old 04-08-2007, 03:37 PM   #5
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">So lets say we are drawing from the curb side when it goes empty the red will show and we then must turn valve to be able to use street side tank? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

No. At least that's not the way it should work. Once your curb-side tank is empty, it should automatically start drawing propane from the street-side tank (assuming your street-side tank is open). True, you do have to manually turn the valve to now point at the street-side tank, but as far as I can determine, that's mainly for the user's benefit so they know which tank they're working off of (and, when the regulator again turns red, you know the street-side tank is empty).

That's the way *our* Excel works, and the way it's worked on every other RV we've had that had dual propane tanks.
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Old 04-08-2007, 04:58 PM   #6
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I don't have my Excel yet but I hope this is not true. The way it worked on all of my past rigs is you turn on both tanks and as the one with the lever turned to it runs out of propane the little glass shows red (which means that tank is out of fuel)but you are now operating off the other tank automatically. Then you would switch the lever to the other tank which you are running off from now. Shut off the valve to the tank you just used up the propane from and take it and refuel it. Bring it back and connect it back up and turn on the valve. After the other one runs out and the little glass shows red you just reverse the process with the lever.

At least that is how all of my other rigs have worked
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Old 04-08-2007, 07:03 PM   #7
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The tanks will switch automatically. When the red indicator shows that one tank is empty, you flip the lever to close the line from the empty tank to the regulator. That alllows you to remove the empty tank, fill it and put it back -all while still using the other tank. It is designed so that there need not be an interruption of gas service when removing a tank to get it filled.

At least that's how they described it to me last Thursday.
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Old 04-08-2007, 09:17 PM   #8
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Thanks for the information and in the prvious posts from last year that John lead me to I found a link http://shleggitt.com/ that explains operation and testing of auto switch valves quite well so I look forward to testing mine again as soon as the weather gets a bit nicer. They are definetly are desighned to be automatic and I would not be supprised to find that when we checked it at dealer we had valves closed or some other sort of operator error. I will update then thank you.
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Old 04-09-2007, 10:49 AM   #9
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This is interesting. After reading Highgturn's post that ChiefJohn referenced, I am wondering if this pertains to my problem. On my former trailer, when I ran out of LP the sight glass quickly went red and I knew I was now on the second cylinder. However, on my Excel the sight glass goes to half red, half green and never seems to go all red unless I shut the valve on the supposedly empty cylinder (the one to which the lever is pointing) and let it sit awhile (maybe a half hour). I first realized I had a problem when I ran out of fuel in the middle of a cold night and found both tanks empty. I've already had the existing regulator replaced but it didn't solve the problem.

Would placing a second regulator on the cyliner on the street side solve this problem?
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Old 04-10-2007, 04:13 AM   #10
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Greenthumb,

I believe that installing the 30 psi regulator on the street side will solve all your problems; however, I would recommend that you contact Ed Lee, Sr. at Marshall Gas Controls. Ed is one of the nicest guys you will ever deal with and he really knows what causes what problem. You can reach Ed at the following number: 800-877-2495. Give Ed my regards if you talk with him.
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Old 04-12-2007, 10:00 AM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I believe that installing the 30 psi regulator on the street side will solve all your problems; however, I would recommend that you contact Ed Lee, Sr. at Marshall Gas Controls. Ed is one of the nicest guys you will ever deal with and he really knows what causes what problem. You can reach Ed at the following number: 800-877-2495. Give Ed my regards if you talk with him. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


I took Highgturn's advice and called Ed Lee, Sr. at Marshall Gas Controls. He is very forthcoming and extremely knowledgeable. After spending about 15 minutes with me patiently explaining the intracies and impact of the new, safer regulators, I now understand that the 30 psi regulator on the remote (street side) tank will solve most of my problems.

I'd also like to echo Max1's suggestion in an earlier post to visit www.shleggitt.com. This is the website of Marshall Gas Controls' parent company. Click on the "Information Page" field and you will find a wealth of information explaining the potential problems, suggested fixes and methods for testing your system in layman's language so that we, the end user, can understand it.

From what I can gather, Ed Lee, Sr. is heavily involved in the design of these systems and has worked with the major RV companies to accommodate their coach designs. You will find his name on some of the articles on the Shleggitt webpage.

I have a scheduled PM at my Excel dealer in the near future and just called him to have them add the installation of the 30 psi regulator to the remote tank. He knew all about this fix and said that Excel now installs the 30 psi regulator on all new units.
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