Never-Lube hubs

[KU9L]

How much water is too much? Noticed a dusting of rust on our hub cover of the front passenger tire yesterday when we pulled into the campground, the other 3 wheels looked okay. This morning I opened the cap cover on the rust dust covered one to discover some water sitting inside the hub cover under the Never-Lube hubs, minus what seeped out under centrifugal force during yesterday's six hour journey northward. The wheel behind it is normally under our slide-out and the front wheel hub cover cap is directly under the side seem of our rain gutter at the top of the sidewall. Our dealer did a token attempt to seal the rain gutter leak last fall, it didn't make it to the first rain as that gutter seam likes to flex like crazy going down the road anyway.

I took several paper towels to soak up the water inside the hub cover and will leave off the cap today to let the sun dry it out. When I pulled off the cap for the wheel behind it there was some minor rust on the cast iron Never Lube hub so from outside appearances they both look about the same for what you'd expect to see after 10,000 miles of road journeys. However, rust and water can spell trouble unless Never Lube tried to make it stupid proof?

I guess I should have put my vinyl wheel covers on for the 5 months we were in the FL Keys in hind sight, however two years ago putting those covers on seemed to prevent drying air flow that also caused rust in areas I wasn't happy with on our last coach!

Yesterday I felt both hub covers when we got to the campground and both felt about the same sitting in the hot sun, neither too hot to touch. My plan is to keep zapping all 4 wheels with my infrared thermometer during frequent travel stops to monitor any differences. I didn't notice any major differences from my tire pressure monitor yesterday while in motion, indicating no major temperature differences from potential bearing heating either ... but I will keep a closer eye on it when we hit Gore, Oklahoma Sunday afternoon.

May 2nd we have an appointment to get our bedroom slide floor repaired in S.C. I will call later to confirm we are still on the schedule this time around and will add this to the list to check-out since it is now an item of cautionary concern. The old-timers here say not to worry, however most of them haven't moved their coaches in over 5 years since they became permanent southbound snowbirds!

I have the "canned" stock RT configuration with the imfamous Good Year 16" tires & painted white steel rims of which I need to start fixing some of those rust spots on all four rims. I also need to replace many of my chrome wheel nuts as they look fairly terrible ugly as well. My coach sat at the dealers lot for 12 months before we bought it new next to a major highway sprayed with calcium chloride in winter, thus the frame, metal hardware, & wheels had an extra help in early rust issues.

Dave

[rockintom]

Dave........I'm still unclear of exactly what you're talking about. Can you take a pic of your issue and post it? I'm not that familiar with the steel wheel, but very familiar with the Never Lube setup. I can tell you a common characteristic of Never Lube that gets noticed is the light weeping of grease on the wheels inbetween washings and the normal .050 end play when the wheel off the ground. Dexter states this is normal according to their service manual publication. I've been inside the Never Lube bearing and it is a very robust set up and nothing cheap about it. I keep a extra on hand (disk brake setup) ....if anyone gets into an emergency, call me. rockin'

[KU9L]

Tom,

I don't know all of the big fancy words, but here are a couple of photos from my cell phone. Most of the "rust dust" has been wiped away with a wet cloth to see what was underneath it all. In the close-ups of the inner-side cone-area one can see what looks like a water line where the water probably sat for a spell. This is the first time I ever noticed the "rust dust" coming out, perhaps prior to this winter the coach was tilted a couple of degrees one way or the other different than before and the leak directly above in the rain gutter seam wasn't an issue? The cap was on fairly tight (had to pry hard with a screwdriver), but apparently not water tight. Things look pretty dry now and there is absolutely no evidence of any grease or any water-contaminated grease being present inside the cone behind the cap. Maybe my concern is a non-issue, but my gut reaction is water intrusion can't be good for many things.

Dave

[rockintom]

I, too believe it a non issue....but to be sure, I pull the wheels and just take a look-see. After you remove those wheels make sure and do about 4 retorques. Steel wheels aren't as big a concern as the aluminum wheels, but some concern of loosening after a few miles after a wheel reinstall is still there. I retorque at 200, 500 750 and 1,000 mile intervals respectively.......call me anal....but I've seen too many with sheered studs and lost tires and wheels in my times on trailers especially. rockin'

[Endeavor2BnC]

Originally Posted by rockintom

I, too believe it a non issue....but to be sure, I pull the wheels and just take a look-see. After you remove those wheels make sure and do about 4 retorques. Steel wheels aren't as big a concern as the aluminum wheels, but some concern of loosening after a few miles after a wheel reinstall is still there. I retorque at 200, 500 750 and 1,000 mile intervals respectively.......call me anal....but I've seen too many with sheered studs and lost tires and wheels in my times on trailers especially. rockin'

Tom,
What torque do you set your wheels to?
Tim

[rockintom]

Originally Posted by Endeavor2BnC

Tom,
What torque do you set your wheels to?
Tim

120 ft. lbs. What are your's set to?

[KU9L]

Hmmm, explains why I couldn't budge mine either way. I'll look up the Ocala dealer's address as it is about half way to our destination tomorrow afternoon, in case Coachnet needs any towing instructions. I put a fresh alkaline battery in my infrared thermometer and have a relaxed easy schedule tomorrow @ 55 mph on I-75 & I-10.

Dave

[KU9L]

I just spoke with Ralph in S.C. and he says it is of little to no concern as those hubs are on there very tight with little chance of water getting in. My silver cones are decorative only and he said some manufacturers don't even install the end caps on them like mine have. If the rust bothers me I can shield the cones from rain water getting in there until I can get the rain gutter leak fixed. I told him I'd be monitoring the hub temps anyway as a comparison, but if it would have been a problem I wouldn't have made it 6 hours Tuesday without some major heating issues becoming present. Nonetheless they will check it out for me on May 2nd. At least I can sleep soundly tonight as much as normal for the night before a travel day. As always, Coachnet is on standby.

Dave

[Endeavor2BnC]

Originally Posted by rockintom

120 ft. lbs. What are your's set to?

I've been using 110 ft. lbs.

[rockintom]

Originally Posted by Endeavor2BnC

I've been using 110 ft. lbs.

I think you'd be OK with that as long as you do the retorque routine.

I always told Rosie you were a "loose nut"!!! Trying my best to keep it clean here!! rockin' washinout!

[KU9L]

Tire pressure consistently tested from 111 to 117 psi today on my 16" tires once things warmed up on the road (outside temps varied 50* to 74*) from my TPMS which is accurate to about +/- 3 psi and wheel temps were consistently 90* - 120* depending on direct sun or shade. Today was 450 miles, tomorrow a shorter 310 miles to Pelahatchie, MS, Sunday will be a 500 mile day +/- to Gore, OK.

Dave