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Old 06-11-2008, 06:31 PM   #1
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Does anyone have the electric rear stabilizer jacks AND the hydraulic "mid ship" jacks just behind the tires? Wondering if rear stabilizer jacks would be required?

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Old 06-11-2008, 06:31 PM   #2
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Does anyone have the electric rear stabilizer jacks AND the hydraulic "mid ship" jacks just behind the tires? Wondering if rear stabilizer jacks would be required?

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Old 06-11-2008, 07:02 PM   #3
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We have the hydraulic leveling jacks behind the axles. I was concerned about the amount of overhand between the jacks and the rear of the trailer. We had the factory add a set of scissor jacks to the back of the trailer. They add a little stability...probably more on longer trailers. I only use them when we are setup for more than a few days.

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Old 06-12-2008, 02:22 AM   #4
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by KramalotInn:
We have the hydraulic leveling jacks behind the axles. I was concerned about the amount of overhand between the jacks and the rear of the trailer. We had the factory add a set of scissor jacks to the back of the trailer. They add a little stability...probably more on longer trailers. I only use them when we are setup for more than a few days.

Rick </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Rick,
You say the rear scissor jacks add a "little" more stability......is it enough to justify the additional cost of the jacks in your mind? Just curious. Tom
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Old 06-12-2008, 03:05 AM   #5
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Tom,
I was told by my dealer that you can get some "wiggle" back there w/o the stabilizers. They had a 36ft with the hydraulic levelers and scissor jacks.
Speaking of the electric stabilizers, I noticed on gravel that they touch down and then slide sideways and don't lift. On paved (asphalt) sites, they ask that you use the plastic pads or anything that prevents sinking in the pavement. I tried using them and they (the stabilizers don't grab). Do they get to a point that they stop sliding? I was afraid to keep going for fear I'd maybe damage them.
Ed
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Old 06-12-2008, 03:29 AM   #6
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Ed, I use a 2 inch PT that's cut in an 8 inch sq and installed a plastic plate, cut to fit on it. The pad can be used with the plastic up or down. As you might have found out, sometimes one thing doesn't always fit.

Reqardless of the surface, I always use a pad below the foot and haven't had any problems.
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Old 06-12-2008, 03:44 AM   #7
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Do you have a picture? I'm not sure what you mean by a PT. 'Hope you'll excuse me.
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Old 06-12-2008, 04:09 AM   #8
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rockintom:

Rick,
You say the rear scissor jacks add a "little" more stability......is it enough to justify the additional cost of the jacks in your mind? Just curious. Tom </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Tom,

With the scissor jacks down, there is less motion noticed when one person is standing in the bedroom and the other walks to the back of the trailer. The factory charged $145 to add the jacks to our order. Pretty small $ compared to the total cost of the unit.

Rick
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Old 06-12-2008, 04:26 AM   #9
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Ed,
I believe 'Workshop' is referring to pressure treated (PT) lumber. My procedure is similar to Workshop's, I've got 2" x 8" PT boards for the rear jacks and 2' x 10" PT boards for the front, with sufficient of each size for most situations. The rear electric stabilizer jacks will come down at an angle and gradually flatten out as a load is applied.
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Old 06-12-2008, 06:42 AM   #10
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Ed,

Sorry, Chief is right PT is pressure treated material.

Here is a photo of my pad. It's 2" x 8" x 8". I rounded off the corners, think it stores easier that way and takes less hits. Even with it being 'pressure treated' I stained it once and then Thompson Water Sealed it several times so it reduces the amount of moisture it might collect. I then installed a plastic pad from Camping World on one side. Depending on the surface it's going down on depends on where the plastic is. Here I have it up for the photo but on concrete it would normally be facing down.

You can see my illness as a finish carpenter.....have to sand, stain and finish everthing.

I know, should sand and paint the outriggers instead. So much to do.....so little time.



Chris
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Old 06-12-2008, 07:37 AM   #11
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Chris,

I don't think we should expect anything less from you. They look great. You da man.

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Old 06-12-2008, 10:42 AM   #12
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Chris,

Are those corners on the plastic plate not chamfered and finished off?? OMG! Are you slippin'?

I'd be afraid to put out anything that purty out afraid it wouldn't be there in the morning!

Seriously, those are real nice pieces! Nothing but the best for my bud, Mr. Workhorse! Rockin'
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Old 06-12-2008, 01:30 PM   #13
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I also use a piece of pressure treated 2X8 but mine are a little longer AND I found that I have to raise the outside edge with a short piece of 2X4 so that the jack hits the pad at an angle, otherwise mine slide on gravel or asphalt particularly if the surface is slanted.
Tom kinda snickered when he saw my jackpads. They sure as 'hill' ain't sanded and stained. WOW, Chris, the last time I felt this intimidated was back in high school in the shower room after football practice.
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Old 06-12-2008, 01:46 PM   #14
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Their not that sanded, one coat of stain...so the dirt, etc. doesn't show as much.

Besides the photo enhancement to lighten the photo makes it look darker and not to tell, used the best of the two for the photo!

Regardless....it does look good....doesn't it!

AND don't use them if I think the park isn't safe! You can tell I'm not fulltiming.

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