Repair wiring box and entry into slide

[Bruce and Jenna]

You are looking at part of the results of the slide repair made by the Lippert in CA. In order to replace the slide frame, they disconnected the wiring and propane line under the exterior wall.

As you can see, they replaced the weatherproof box with an interior utility box. And tore open the lining on the wall. I did not notice this when I picked up the trailer. So now I must fix it.

How would you suggest I reseal the box and wall? Would rather not replace the box, since I would need to resplice all that wiring.

They also bent the copper propane line at the bend. That I will pay someone to fix.

Thanks as always.

[Still Working "NOT"]

I would have a not so nice discussion with them and tell them to get it fixed properly at their expense. Share the photo also and tell them what was there in the first place. Everything needs to be completly enclosed from the weather, which means water tight box.

[a k]

You might have to pull the box apart anyway. They didn't put a strain relieve or cord connector where the wire goes thru.

If it was mine I'd take the cover off and splice each wire one at a time and maybe shrink wrap it and elimenate the box. Maybe they did that and just stuck it in the box. Get a picture with the cover box off could you?

You might be able to pick up a pipe to flare 45 degree fitting and cut off and reflare your copper pipe.

[Bruce and Jenna]

Before
Factory did not install a box at all, rather just ran the wiring bundle along the ram and up the wall.


Now
It's a rat's nest in there. You can't see the additional five pairs of speaker wiring behind the coax.

If practical, I would rather find a way to weatherproof the box with some durable covering material and caulk, than remove it either replace it or splice it back up.

And what kind of liner can I use to patch the wall? [See original pic.] Maybe use the same liner on the box?

Fortunately I did pay for the 30 hours of labor to install the slide frame. Which is also why I don't want to take it back to them for this work.

[rockintom]

Bruce were you having the weird slide/pump/jack issue prior to them fixing the slide rams. Just curious. Like you say.......what a rat's nest. rockin'

[Bruce and Jenna]

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockintom Bruce were you having the weird slide/pump/jack issue prior to them fixing the slide rams. Just curious. Like you say.......what a rat's nest. rockin'

Not "were." "Are."

Presently awaiting hydraulic pump. Then I will update my separate thread >>>>here.

[Workshop]

Boy that looks good. Always somethings...one step forward, one step to the rear.

From looking at the photo, besides the bent gas line, looks like the ground clamp for the grounding wire is also broken and it's hard to tell from the photo...but the clamp that holds up the gas line just after the elbow and union, is loose as the screw doesn't appear to be tight? From the photo view, what is holding it all up. Looks like the gas line is attached to the wire bundle and that bundle is attached to what?

I can see the coax cable and you mention speaker wires....what else goes through the box? I would imagion maybe a 120vac wire and 12vdc wire cable? From the 'pre-work' photo....I can see a wire bundle coming out of the other slide ram and into the wall.

You also mentioned there was a weather proof box there before? Do you have a proir photo of that?

If they are just coax and speaker wires....I would remove it from the box and group the cables and wires into smaller bundles rounted inside the plastic 'wire tubes' and tape the seams and run them inside the fabric and tape over. If like mine...any excess wire/cable can be slid back through the ram, so whats at the wall/ram is short and neat. But not being there to touch it and see how it all fits, only general thoughts. With an interior utility box, it will be hard to weather proof without a lot of duct tape.

Don't know where or how the gas line passed through the small hole in the frame...but would check it to see if it's traveling ok after it was possibly repositioned (?) when everything was put back together.

[Bruce and Jenna]

In addition to the several coax cables shown in my second post, looks like
5 pair of speaker wires
2 pair 12v wires
1 single wire green of unknown origin and purpose.



Bare copper ground wire connects from the moving LP pipe to the angle iron under the slide room floor on the the street side. Is that OK?

I reckon I'll take all your advice and remove that stupid J box. Disco the cables at the splices, rewrap them and seal 'em up. . Wait till I get back to my home park where I can take my time. Find someone to replace that bent copper LP pipe as soon as possible. Neighbor John suggested a flex pipe at that elbow.

[Bruce and Jenna]

Waitaminute! Better idea!!

Look at that first pic. I could cut an opening from the hole to the front of the box on each side, pull all the wires out, then take out box. No splicing!!! Wrap 'em up and call it good!!!!

Yeah?

[Workshop]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce and Jenna Bare copper ground wire connects from the moving LP pipe to the angle iron under the slide room floor on the the street side. Is that OK?

Yes it appears to be OK. There needs to be a good ground/bonding wire between the chassis ground and the LP supply pipe. I'm sure there is at least one other in the system someplace. This one is there because the ground on/from the main line was broken by the rubber flex hose that allows the slide to be extended.

I mentioned earlier that I thought the ground clamp on the pipe was broken....I was wrong, after enlarging that section of the photo, it is OK and is made to allow the screw to be loosened and moved out of the clamp, allowing for easy install/removal.

[Workshop]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce and Jenna Waitaminute! Better idea!! Look at that first pic. I could cut an opening from the hole to the front of the box on each side, pull all the wires out, then take out box. No splicing!!! Wrap 'em up and call it good!!!! Yeah?

Like the idea!

[Workshop]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce and Jenna Find someone to replace that bent copper LP pipe as soon as possible. Neighbor John suggested a flex pipe at that elbow.

Not sure what you meant by 'flex pipe'.....Rubber hose or the newer metal flex?

Considering the entire line would have to be replaced with either. I would consider this if you are having someone repair the line. Should work ok without going to the trouble of having to get the old line out and do a complete replacement.

There should be enough room to cut the line beyound the damage... install a flare nut and using a flaring tool, flare the end.

Make up a small section of tubing with a flare on each end to use as a 'filler' to replace the damaged section. The new section will be longer than this, but the only on-line photo I could find. Section of copper tubing to length with a flare on each end.





Connect the old and new sections with this fitting. Union coupling, tube to tube.





Consider removing the existing pipe to tubing fitting at the end of the main pipe and replace with a threaded to Flare 45 degree fittings to prevent having to bend the short section of tubing.



Remember that flare fittings are required, don't use a compression fitting on the copper tubing with LP. The only place teflon tape or pipe dope, for gas use, is needed in on the threads of the above fittings. Not on the flare connections.

If the LP line that I just replaced had been outside the living area and not damaged where it was....I would have repaired it this way.

Check with one of the LP service companies in your area and they should be able to do it or give advice on their local codes.

[rockintom]

Work......I was thinking of the exact same thing. At most you'd only have to have a stubby pipe cutter tool. That reminds me.... I can't find any of my flaring and tubing tools.....guess I sold it in the estate sale!!! Harbor Frieght just loves me. rockin'

[Workshop]

Rockin' I bought most of the flare tools I have at the flea market 15+ years ago. Might have been yours? It's interesting that I haven't used or thought about them for years and now can't seem to get away from them.



I was thinking from looking at this photo, if the 45 degree fitting was installed at the end of the pipe....the bad section of pipe was cut as close to the end as possible and then flared....if there is enough 'play' in the tubing and pipe to allow it to be connected without using the other coupling material.




The pipe that runs along the ram is just straped in place and has a rubber flex hose on the other end that allows connection to the main run. Should be able to get an inch out of that?

You can tell its raining and cold today and Can't find anything else to do.