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Max1 · 04-21-2007, 05:47 PM

I was checking the roof on my 2007 RSO Classic and notice where the roof slants down and meets the flat part of roof there is to or three spots that the skin membrane seems to have lifted like there is air under it one about 6"x12" And the other two about half that. The skin is not torn in any way though it is obvious that if something were to brush them or even hail or wind on highway I am afraid will open it up. Any suggestions will sure be appreciated and these spots were definetly not there last fall when it was put away for the winter.

Max1 · 04-21-2007, 05:47 PM

I was checking the roof on my 2007 RSO Classic and notice where the roof slants down and meets the flat part of roof there is to or three spots that the skin membrane seems to have lifted like there is air under it one about 6"x12" And the other two about half that. The skin is not torn in any way though it is obvious that if something were to brush them or even hail or wind on highway I am afraid will open it up. Any suggestions will sure be appreciated and these spots were definetly not there last fall when it was put away for the winter.

ChiefJohn · 04-22-2007, 10:04 AM

Paul,
Slow response this weekend -- I'm sure someone will weigh in with suggestions for your rubber roof issue this week.

hotair · 04-22-2007, 04:08 PM

Mine came that way from the factory, found it in the PDI. Dealer claimed they were "not a problem". However, the amount of air under them was very small. This week I will be on the roof and see how they did in the ice and snow. Visiting the dealer next week to take care of a few issues:

TV antenna connection broken, apparently tightened too much at the Factory (Either Westinghouse or Excel, probably Westinghouse). Lasted about a week, but we were closed for the winter.

Water heater over temps routinely, either gas, electic or both.

Also getting it raised to top setting. Dewinterize this week, what else will we find?

rfhtlh · 04-22-2007, 04:49 PM

on the water heater temps, you probably have the 10 gal water heater that heats the water to around 140degrees, very hot to touch. they say this is the way they are set at the factory so you have the equivalent of 16 gallons of hot water.

Bruce and Jenna · 04-23-2007, 02:11 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rfhtlh:
on the water heater temps, you probably have the 10 gal water heater that heats the water to around 140degrees, very hot to touch. they say this is the way they are set at the factory so you have the equivalent of 16 gallons of hot water. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Can you adjust the temp if you choose?

rfhtlh · 04-23-2007, 02:47 AM

no, it is factory preset.

rockintom · 04-23-2007, 03:36 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rfhtlh:
on the water heater temps, you probably have the 10 gal water heater that heats the water to around 140degrees, very hot to touch. they say this is the way they are set at the factory so you have the equivalent of 16 gallons of hot water. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

We have one of the waterheaters you are describing. It is the optional Atwood XT model which has a 10 gal tank with 16 gals. at faucet capacity. It is my understanding that the water is superheated to about 160* and then blended with tap water in a manifold to give the the faucet temp of about 120*. Ours works great! We can take 2 major long showers, and wash a sink load of dishes behind that with water still hot. To me it is worth it. The only draw back is it takes awhile to heat up (and takes a bunch of energy) from cold to temp. Usually takes about 25-30 minutes by either electric or propane and about 15 minutes for both. Just FYI.

Tom

ChiefJohn · 04-23-2007, 03:58 AM

Folks,
Please be careful about deviating too far off-topic from the poster's original topic. Doing so may cause the poster's question, etc. to become lost in the additional discussion.

Let's get back to Paul's rubber-roof separation problem.
Thanks,

ChiefJohn · 04-23-2007, 09:46 AM

Paul,
My knowledge of rubber roof problems is limited. However, I searched on the topic at Escapees.com and the consensus of opinion is that there was insufficient amount of adhesive applied or it did not bond in the location of the bubble. I would have the dealer make note of the problem.

Max1 · 04-23-2007, 07:46 PM

John
That is what i have learned also and it is my understanding that there is different opinons
on whether to attempt any repairs or not

I plan to have my dealer look at it tommorow and will go from there.
I would sure still appreciate hearing more from others that have encounterd similar problems and what they ended up doing.

Hooligan · 04-23-2007, 07:47 PM

Paul: Discussion of "bubbles" in the rubber roof material has come up a few times on the Board.. The advice to have the dealer make note of it and to track it to make sure it doesn't get worse is a good idea. The roof membrane is warrantied for 10-12 years.
One manufacturer, DICOR stated the bubbles are not serious if they basically stay small, they STRONGLY discourage injecting glue under the bubble. The hole can cause more problems than the bubble. Also, using a petroleum based cleaner on the rubber can cause the glue to release and form bubbles...Call the manufacturer of your roof and get their advice...
Hope this helps

Max1 · 04-25-2007, 01:07 PM

I had two dealers look at my roof and they both said as long as its not up by the front cap seam as then air may get underneath and lift it up other wise is normal and most all rubber roofs will have some so for now I will just monitor them. Next time around though I would seriously consider fiberglass.
I am also wondering now why more board members didnt way in on this issue??? and thanks to all who did.

ChiefJohn · 04-27-2007, 03:09 AM

Paul,
Thought you might be interested in this posting from RV.net on a similar problem:

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I was at least as concerned as you when I went to pick up my Everest two years ago. Dealer said it was normal, but I made him climb up on the other eight Everests on his lot and the roofs were nothing like mine. Without telling the dealer, I called Dicor to see what the would say. Here's a summary of what they told me:

1. Not normal, caused by putting down too much adhesive which produces gas and causes the bubbles. Pressing them down on a hot day may help, but probably won't.
2. Roof can only be glued to wood, so where it goes over seems and metal, it cannot be glued down. It should be stretched tight over these areas but it will still be loose (so that part is normal as long as it is stretched tight).
3. The only place where you might have problems develop is in the first five feet or so of the roof. Their studies show that this area gets the brunt of the wind when towing. So big bubbles up there could cause problems.
4. Other than #3, the effects are almost certainly only cosmetic.
5. Dicor warrants the roof membrane but not the installation. So if the installation causes a problem that develops outside of your Keystone warranty, Dicor will not help and Keystone may not.

So I called Keystone and told them what Dicor told me including the fact that the faulty installation problems were most likely only cosmetic. I asked them to send me a note saying that they would take responsibility for any problems that resulted from the way the roof was installed. They agreed and emailed me the note followed by a hard copy.

All that said, two years later, and after having the rig in some pretty high winds, the roof looks about the same as when I bought it. Doesn't seem to be a problem as far as I can see at this point.

Bill, Carol & Striker The Cat
2005 Everest 323k
1989 Ford F-350 Crew Cab, 460, 5 spd, 4.30 axle
Everest owners: check out the Everest Owners Club.
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The complete thread.