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Old 07-08-2007, 07:43 PM   #1
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Well seeing how this is our first real shake down run, one week of living in the new Excel Limited. On our last night of camping I dumped the tanks, the sewage T-handle pulls out ok, but sticks out about three inches from where the other t handles are when pushed back in. And of course it is not closing all the way so, there is a continues drip of sewage into the PVC pipe holder, and then it runs out the bottom. Yuch !!

There should have been a access panel installed at the cable and valve assembly in the bottom in case of this happening. The whole bottom is one big seal and I have no idea where it is in the under belly. Not good R+D on a $100000 rig ! These things should be servicable Anything that moves, will eventually wear and break !
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Old 07-08-2007, 07:43 PM   #2
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Well seeing how this is our first real shake down run, one week of living in the new Excel Limited. On our last night of camping I dumped the tanks, the sewage T-handle pulls out ok, but sticks out about three inches from where the other t handles are when pushed back in. And of course it is not closing all the way so, there is a continues drip of sewage into the PVC pipe holder, and then it runs out the bottom. Yuch !!

There should have been a access panel installed at the cable and valve assembly in the bottom in case of this happening. The whole bottom is one big seal and I have no idea where it is in the under belly. Not good R+D on a $100000 rig ! These things should be servicable Anything that moves, will eventually wear and break !
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Old 07-08-2007, 11:23 PM   #3
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I don't own an Excel, however, I gain access to my valves thru a storage compartment on the oposite side of the wet compartment. There is a removable panel at that location. I suspect you have a similar arrangememt.

There is an access somewhere.
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Old 07-09-2007, 11:49 AM   #4
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I can get to ours by sliding the rear panel open inside the basement. Same panel you open to get to the central vacuum to change bags.

(if you paid 100,000 dollars, you went to the wrong dealer)
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Old 07-09-2007, 12:00 PM   #5
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Not good R+D on a $100000 rig ! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks Roger!! The value of my 2005 MKO just went up -- the DW might allow me to trade for a newer model.
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Old 07-09-2007, 12:04 PM   #6
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Sorry to hear of your problem. Several months ago there were some threads about this and as I remember the factory service center had installed an access panel on an in warranty unit, and someone else did their own on an out of warranty unit. Do a search in the arcives and you should find some helpful info. Good luck.
ace
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Old 07-09-2007, 04:11 PM   #7
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Funny thing, our brand new unit actually came from the factory with an access panel. Seems they must have had a leak prior to delivery...
Even funnier...after the 4th weekend trip, we found a new leak that didn't show up until it had soaked the insulation and the access panel (1/4" plywood) before running over and dripping on the concrete. Seems the elbow had some yellow epoxy around the joint to the sewer tank and for some reason this had cracks all around the pipe. PI sent new water and sewer tanks to our dealer; not sure how they put them in now that the underbelly has been sealed off and they won't fit through the access panel. My new rig has had more repairs/patches in 6 months than my 9 year old CarriLite which cost about 35% of the new Excel. Yep, caught me on a bad night. 5th trip out we had water dripping from the antennae crank handle (which we had never used); gotta love that fiberglass roof!
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Old 07-10-2007, 10:17 PM   #8
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Well I called Peterson, and they told me there is a access panel on the bottom, and by God there it was ! The cable seemed to be adjusted correctly but the handle was still out four inches. Well I hooked up my old Flush King reverse flusher and gave it a couple of back fills. Never saw any thing come out, but the good news is the handle went all the way in and seals the black tank again. There was something stuck in the seal, I won't go any further on what I thought it was.
PS.
I didn't pay a $100000 for this unit, that was the MSRP
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Old 07-11-2007, 04:32 AM   #9
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Rog,

Glad you got her figured out. Bet there was something left in the tank and it got wedged in the valve. Apparently you broke it loose on the back flush.

You weren't specific, was it the black or grey tank valve that was acting up? Your message almost implied it was both. Just curious.

How's everything else going on the new FLR...inquiring minds wants to know!!
Tom
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Old 07-11-2007, 08:12 AM   #10
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It was the black tank of course. The nasty one. The rest of the rig seems to be screwed together pretty good. The one thing they did not to my neatness standards was the sloppy way they put in the washer dryer. All the water lines and elec. were just thrown behind, with a possible pinch off of water lines.
Here is another little update. just discovered whey the brand new washer doesn't want to start. The front of the cabinet is dented from the factory,and is patialy hidden by closet trim. This won't let the washer electric switch make a good contact because it is out of alignment. This isn't my opinion it was the factorty Whirlpool mans opionion
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Old 07-11-2007, 08:33 AM   #11
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Thanks Roger, good information to place in our Excel folder if we have a similar problem.
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Old 07-20-2007, 05:11 AM   #12
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I have had to glue a cracked blackwater tank, as well as both tanks valves not closing. I looked thru the basement access panel, but no way could I work on much in that direction. My question is, how to build an access panel where I have already cut open the underbelly. What materials to run from side to side to frame the panel.
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Old 07-20-2007, 03:58 PM   #13
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On our RT the framing around the access panel is wood stapled inside the underbelly fabric and not attached to anything else. Has worked so far. Panel is 3/8(I think) plywood screwed to the frame.
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Old 07-20-2007, 06:21 PM   #14
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I guess 1/4" plywood in the opening the size I have cut could be supported by long wooden strips of 1x2 or 2x2's, provided they are long enough to spread the weight across the entire width of the RV. Thanks for the reply.
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