Slide Ram Maintenance

[rockintom]

Just thought I'd share my experience with servicing my slide rams this AM. I'm pretty good about cleaning and lubing the rams themselves, but noticed how dirty the rollers that are exposed to the elements get after 3.5 years. The rollers themselves are pretty robust with a double ball bearing set up. My rollers felt rough and gritty when removed (see photos). After cleaning up and packing with a good grade wheel bearing grease they function great. To get the rollers out I simply supported the slide wall closest to where I was working on the roller with a 8 ton bottle jack. Ask your bride not to dance the jig on the slide your working on! Spray the rams down good with silicone spray. Took about 2.5 hrs. to do, including clean up of the tools. Might want to take a look at yours. I didn't do the rollers hidden by the underbelly. I figure they are protected from the elements and are fine!

[rockintom]

Just thought I'd share my experience with servicing my slide rams this AM. I'm pretty good about cleaning and lubing the rams themselves, but noticed how dirty the rollers that are exposed to the elements get after 3.5 years. The rollers themselves are pretty robust with a double ball bearing set up. My rollers felt rough and gritty when removed (see photos). After cleaning up and packing with a good grade wheel bearing grease they function great. To get the rollers out I simply supported the slide wall closest to where I was working on the roller with a 8 ton bottle jack. Ask your bride not to dance the jig on the slide your working on! Spray the rams down good with silicone spray. Took about 2.5 hrs. to do, including clean up of the tools. Might want to take a look at yours. I didn't do the rollers hidden by the underbelly. I figure they are protected from the elements and are fine!

[sidkaye]

Nice job and great pics.
I just replaced the Barker worm gear assembly on our LR slide. I also lubed the rams and bearings. Mine didn't have any grunge buildup so I won't remove them yet but I am happy to see how you did it.
I read where you had rebuilt a couple of those worm gear assemblies. I compared the new one I got with the old and there are several differences that make me lean towards just getting another new one if necessary instead of rebuilding the old one.
My original sheared several teeth off the worm gear rendering the manual crank useless. Without teeth to engage the worm drive, nothing moves! I think what caused the teeth to shear was a loose nut on the gear/motor assembly. After we heard a sharp bang unlike the ratchet/clutch sound I went under the trailer to check while my wife activated the switch. I immediately noticed the motor assembly moving out of alignment as the drive shafts turned. I am hoping that was the cause. The new motor is in and appears to be working perfectly but after hearing that bang/tooth shearing, we are a bit gun shy. IF that was NOT the cause it will be back to troubleshooting.
I will try to get some photo's posted.

On Edit:
Tom, I just showed your pics to my wife as we share in repairs and maintenance and she said "I would like to see his teeth".....His teeth?? ......YES where the pinion gear meshes with the teeth on the ram.
So if you might be so kind either post or email a picture of "Your Teeth"

Sidney

[rockintom]

Sid,

Thanks for the info. I hear what your saying about the motor being loose maybe the cause of the failure. Two major changes on the original gear on your old timer to the newer/replacement gear. They changed the gear ratio to take some of load off the gear assy. I believe the old gears were 49:1 ratio and newer gears are 55:1. If you pay close attention the new gear moves the slide at a slightly slower rate. Also the newer gears use 80-90W hypoid verse grease packed in the old one. The reason for the gear change was due to a higher failure rate of the brass gear and roll (drive) pin. Also just FYI each and every piece of that gearbox is available from Barker. When I redid mine I couldn't get the roll pin out with out damaging several pieces. I elected to just get a new box.

Do I sound like a "Know It All"? Don't folks get tired of all my Bull Stuff? I thought so. At least I don't charge for this!! You get what you pay for....free advice! rockin'

[camperguy]

Tom
I always assumed these rollers had a ball bearing with a seal in them. Were you able to disassemble the bearing to repack it with grease?
Also, what kind of lubricant do you use on the rams? Seems most everything I tried collects dust and probably does more harm than good.

[Workshop]

Good project Tom to pass along. I likewise cleaned and lubed my rollers when I was doing the slide alignment last month. Three were just dirt and grit like yours but the forward roadside roller was very dry and in need of rescue.

Did notice that mine have large nylon washers on either side of the roller and use a different bushing. Guess just another one of those changes that happens over the years.

[sidkaye]

Camperguy, we have used the "Sprayon" S00210 silicone spray exclusively on our rams etc for the past 5 years. It is what is used by PI, and we have never had any dust or grit adhere to the slide parts.

Sidney

[rockintom]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by camperguy:
Tom
I always assumed these rollers had a ball bearing with a seal in them. Were you able to disassemble the bearing to repack it with grease?
Also, what kind of lubricant do you use on the rams? Seems most everything I tried collects dust and probably does more harm than good. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

camperguy,

The bearing in the rollers are OPEN. I couldn't believe it either. I washed the bearing out good and dryed with compressed air and repacked them by hand, just like we did when were kids, then wiped off the excess. You gotta remember this bearing takes a straight on load and is very low speed. I was surprised to see as many balls as I did and also a double roll of bearing. Your right that bearing should have been a seal one...IMHO!

I just use regular old spray silicone. Prior to spraying I clean the rams with a rag and cleaning solvent (I didn't say gas). rockin'

[rockintom]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">On Edit:
Tom, I just showed your pics to my wife as we share in repairs and maintenance and she said "I would like to see his teeth".....His teeth?? ......YES where the pinion gear meshes with the teeth on the ram.
So if you might be so kind either post or email a picture of "Your Teeth" </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Sid,
Sorry my teeth are soaking right now in a cup of Oak Leaf!

I'm curious why she wants to see the "teeth".... but will get a pic in the morning and post here!! Aren't I a nice pain in the rear? rock

Here the pix you wanted. I went ahead and snapped one of my fresh gearbox. Nice, shiny and new! HTH! rockin'

[clspds]

I cleaned my rollers back in the spring. The ones that are covered in the underbelly were clean and just needed lubed.
I wipe my rams with a rag and spray with silicone.
I just noticed the other day that the gear assembly on my LR slide was starting to leak. Rockin was kind enough to help me out as to where to find info on Barker. Now all I have to do is decide if I want to do the repair. Or have someone who knows what they are doing take care of it.
Tom, somebody is sure going to get a well maintained rig when you get rid of that old thing.

Paul

[WldKargo]

Food for thought (MD20/20 for Rockin', of course)--when doing maintenance on these open race bearings, note the part number (if marked). Normally, you can order the same bearings in a sealed version from companies like Bearings, Inc. Then your maintenance cycle can probably be extended.

[rockintom]

Cloud,

Thanks for the compliment about my well maintained old rig! I was wondering if anyone would notice.

If you decide to reseal that box let me know and I'll walk you through it step by step. Not hard unless you get a roll pin that gets stuck like on mine, they are a pretty tight fit. If you had access to a press that would be the answer. Gaskets and seals are cheap. rockin'

Chris,
I hear you on the sealed bearing deal. Mine had NO markings what-so-ever, but I imagine you could match them up at a bearing shop! Glad you're back on line. You've been gone so long, you didn't know I've graduated to "Oak Leaf". I'm leaving plenty of the 20-20 to my gutter wino friends!