Thetford aqua-magic broken wasteball

[lyncjim]

I am looking for heip in replacing waste ball. It is not moving when flush but can be moved by hand 360 degrees. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Jim

[KramalotInn]

We replaced our waste ball a few weeks ago with this part. The parts package included instructions on how to remove the toilet from the floor and separate the two parts to gain access to the waste ball. Depending on whether the break occurred on the waste valve or the drive arm that moves it, you may also need this part.

[rockintom]

What Kramalot says....And here is the link to the parts package you'll need which includes the waste ball. Thetford Toilet Waste Ball Kit 34117= .The part numbers that are displayed on this site are a Theftford brand #s.

I have done balls and seals job and it is very easy......the only suggestion I can give you is if you have any doubt of the link and spring position take a pic of it before you take it apart. Do not overtighten the nuts as you may crack the bowl. Just good and snug.

As I have said so many times before, the usual cause of failure of the seal coating is due to folks using caustic cleaners when washing the toilet. It will take of the teflon type coating off the seal and causes drag and wear on the ball surface. Then the ball scratches and drag, which causes poor contact and leaking and eventually waste ball failure.

Use a cleaner like Scubby Bubbles white foamy spray (Dollar Tree Store or the like) that is NOT caustic. And once a month use Theftford seal conditioner (available at any RV Parts store - CW and very few Walmarts). Let sit in bowl for overnight as instucted.

I have used this method now and can get 5 years + out of a seal and that's TFing. Let me know if you have any more questions as I help on this one for sure.

[rockintom]

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockintom What Kramalot says....And here is the link to the parts package you'll need which includes the waste ball. Thetford Toilet Waste Ball Kit 34117= .The part numbers that are displayed on this site are a Theftford brand #s. I have done balls and seals job and it is very easy......the only suggestion I can give you is if you have any doubt of the link and spring position take a pic of it before you take it apart. Do not overtighten the nuts as you may crack the bowl. Just good and snug. As I have said so many times before, the usual cause of failure of the seal coating is due to folks using caustic cleaners when washing the toilet. It will take of the teflon type coating off the seal and causes drag and wear on the ball surface. Then the ball scratches and drag, which causes poor contact and leaking and eventually waste ball failure. Use a cleaner like Scubby Bubbles white foamy spray (Dollar Tree Store or the like) that is NOT caustic. And once a month use Theftford seal conditioner (available at any RV Parts store - CW and very few Walmarts). Let sit in bowl for overnight as instucted. I have used this method now and can get 5 years + out of a seal and that's TFing. Let me know if you have any more questions as I help on this one for sure.

After reread this post, I guess I need to add or clarify that the root cause is usually the seal that has lost it teflon coating, thus creating excess drag and load on the waste ball, link kit, and even the pedal cable (however the other components will usually fail first...and the cable is the last to go).

First signs of an issue are the waste ball not fully retracting when release....or having to "snap" the pedal to get the seal to close completely. Then the next step is the ball drags on the seal causing the pedal effort to increase which ultimately causes the link or ball to fail.


I've found that when you have the toilet out....what a great time to do a deep cleaning in the throat and all. After cleaning I use the tailgate of Tug (LGT) to doing my operating. I alway do a bench test on the seal holding water before taking the toilet back in the rig for installation.

One other thing..... always put a rag in the hole in the floor for a couple of reasons. One to keep the smell to a minumum, and to keep the stool bolts from dropping in the tanks when cleaning the area around the hole before reinstallation. rockin'

[Endeavor2BnC]

I have found that when the bowl in the old rig would not hold a seal, all I had to do was use "plumber's silicone" to recoat the seal and ball.

I use the Nitrile Exam gloves, http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product...=1&topnav=&s=1 from Costco. With the water running, I'd run a finger around the seal to clean it of any debris. Then place a dab of plumber's silicone, bought at Home Depot - DANCO Silicone Faucet Grease - 1/2 Oz. - 88693 at The Home Depot , on my finger tip and run it around the seal and the top of the ball. Time involved is less than a minute. Cost is $2.97 (silicone) + $0.05 (glove). Results - always worked and may be repeated as necessary. Effort -nil, headache - none. DW's compliments - PRICELESS.

Never did have to change out the seal. Now in the new rig, I will periodically, 2 - 3 months, coat the seal and ball as a preventative measure against failure. We'll see how that works.

[rvgary]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Endeavor2BnC I have found that when the bowl in the old rig would not hold a seal, all I had to do was use "plumber's silicone" to recoat the seal and ball. I use the Nitrile Exam gloves, Costco - Kirkland Signature from Costco. With the water running, I'd run a finger around the seal to clean it of any debris. Then place a dab of plumber's silicone, bought at Home Depot - DANCO Silicone Faucet Grease - 1/2 Oz. - 88693 at The Home Depot , on my finger tip and run it around the seal and the top of the ball. Time involved is less than a minute. Cost is $2.97 (silicone) + $0.05 (glove). Results - always worked and may be repeated as necessary. Effort -nil, headache - none. DW's compliments - PRICELESS. Never did have to change out the seal. Now in the new rig, I will periodically, 2 - 3 months, coat the seal and ball as a preventative measure against failure. We'll see how that works.

Good info Tim... I will give it a try.

[rockintom]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Endeavor2BnC I have found that when the bowl in the old rig would not hold a seal, all I had to do was use "plumber's silicone" to recoat the seal and ball. I use the Nitrile Exam gloves, Costco - Kirkland Signature from Costco. With the water running, I'd run a finger around the seal to clean it of any debris. Then place a dab of plumber's silicone, bought at Home Depot - DANCO Silicone Faucet Grease - 1/2 Oz. - 88693 at The Home Depot , on my finger tip and run it around the seal and the top of the ball. Time involved is less than a minute. Cost is $2.97 (silicone) + $0.05 (glove). Results - always worked and may be repeated as necessary. Effort -nil, headache - none. DW's compliments - PRICELESS. Never did have to change out the seal. Now in the new rig, I will periodically, 2 - 3 months, coat the seal and ball as a preventative measure against failure. We'll see how that works.

Thanks Timo.......good info.......but if the teflon coating is gone off the seal, your technique is a very temporary repair. I tried it and could only get a day or two before it needed to be done again. If we clean and use the toilet as we should with my recommended procedure.......the seal with last a very long time. Love your new rig....you high roller you!!!! rockin'

[Endeavor2BnC]

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockintom Thanks Timo.......good info.......but if the teflon coating is gone off the seal, your technique is a very temporary repair. I tried it and could only get a day or two before it needed to be done again. If we clean and use the toilet as we should with my recommended procedure.......the seal with last a very long time. Love your new rig....you high roller you!!!! rockin'

When I do it it lasted up to one month or so. Maybe you just need to be a little more liberal with the lubrication. Don't try to scrimp on it. Also, you really have to make sure that you clean it before putting the lubrication on. Don't be afraid. It won't bite you.

We also use orange cleaner with good results. I like the "citrus smell".

[rockintom]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Endeavor2BnC When I do it it lasted up to one month or so. Maybe you just need to be a little more liberal with the lubrication. Don't try to scrimp on it. Also, you really have to make sure that you clean it before putting the lubrication on. Don't be afraid. It won't bite you. We also use orange cleaner with good results. I like the "citrus smell".

Hey, look at this way........we both have a solution to the problem. That gives folks two ways to try. Aren't we good???

[Loralie]

This is about 2 years 2 late!! No, really, this was very helpful and informative. About two years ago when we took off on our first attempt at fulltiming, my parents traveled with us. While in Livingston, Tx the ball stopped moving!! Not a good thing with 4 people, 2 being not real mobile. We tried to fix the toilet (had lots of helpful minds working on it!) finally finding that the mechanism that turns the ball had broken off...no more moving! We had a choice to order the new part (very expensive in Livingston) or stop by Camping World in Houston, buy a new toilet, and swap them out. Which we did...and they kindly let us leave the old toilet in their dumpster!
Thanks for the great reminders on maintenance....it seems there is always something more to add to the list! But good maintenance will certainly pay off in the long run - therefore we wax tomorrow!

[rockintom]

Nothing like helping friends find their way in the toilet!!

[rockintom]

Quote:

Originally Posted by lyncjim I am looking for heip in replacing waste ball. It is not moving when flush but can be moved by hand 360 degrees. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Jim

So Jim......what the lastest poop on this subject?

[lyncjim]

Thank you for all the help. I purchased Ball kit, the ball arm and the water valve ( thought since I had stool out I would put new valve on and save old one for spare. It took a few days to get parts, but was able to turn broken ball out of the way so could use stool even though it was broken.

[rockintom]

Let us know if you need anymore help. It very easy to repair these toilets. Remember....take photo of the link and spring set up if you have question. Take the opportunity to clean toilet very good while you have it out. Test seal and ball operation before you reinstall....make sure it holds water.....use no harsh cleaners on/in toilet....use Thetford seal conditoner one a month and let set 10-12 hours. Use the same if you store RV for extended period of time and you'll have many years of fine service out of your seal. rockin'

If that doesn't work....then do what Timo (Endevoer) says!!!!