Tree Stains on Roof

[2goldens]

I just finished scrubbing the roof and want to wax, but I have numerous yellow stains from trees (I imagine) and also a yellow stain from air conditioner. Has anyone had any problems like this and what did you use to remove stains? I used the RVWash that removes, bugs etc. with no luck.

[2goldens]

I just finished scrubbing the roof and want to wax, but I have numerous yellow stains from trees (I imagine) and also a yellow stain from air conditioner. Has anyone had any problems like this and what did you use to remove stains? I used the RVWash that removes, bugs etc. with no luck.

[Workshop]

I have removed these stains using house hold bleach. I will add a small amount to the bucket of water/soap and using a rag apply it to the stain. Might have to add more bleach to get the lifting power I need but start off low and add more if needed. I have both spot treated and having just waxed the roof, wiped the entire roof before waxing. Using a rag to wipe on keeps the solution from going only where I apply it. Wash with soap afterwards.

Might not be an instant thing and may take a few minutes for the stain to disappear so wait for it to work and adjust as needed.

[rockintom]

Since this thread is opened up beyond the Excel area, I think it is necessary to mention that the roof issue that is being discussed is for a fiberglass roof. Some folks may question the technique being used on a rubber/vinal roof!

[Endeavor2BnC]

I do not have stains on my roof now but if I did I would have to try Kit Wax Scratch Remover. I used it on the area by the genset yesterday and was very plesed with the results. I have a bra to minimize chips but underneath it got very dirty and I tried all kinds of stuff. Finally tried the stuff from Kit and it worked great with very litle effort. Might be worth a try. You don't have to worry about bleach then.

[Workshop]

Tim,
you need to try harder to get some of those stains.

Tom,

would agree it's best to use caution when working on our RV's whether it be with bleach or Goo Gone or doing something we haven't done or used before. But using bleach on rubber roofs when used correctly doesn't cause a problem. Here are two sources for cleaning and caring for rubber roofs as the RT and Classic has this type of roof and the Limited has the fiberglass.

RV REPORTER_____Maintaining the rubber roof:

o Mild dishwashing detergent should do the job unless you're parked under really grody trees. Use a mild-bristle brush. Do not use harsh abrasives or a stiff brush. A sponge is okay for scrubbing, but a brush is needed when rinsing. (Using a sponge when rinsing just smooshes the dirt around and doesn't get rid of it.)
o Full-strength household bleach is good for stubborn stains (but don't slop it all over, or it will run down the sides and mess up your wax job).

RV Rubber Roof Care and Protection
_____Cleaning Mold and Mildew Growth from EPDM

With some effort and a good cleaner, you may be fortunate enough to remove some of these stains but most will never come off the roof, no matter how hard you try. One recommendation from within the industry is to use a solution of bleach and water. Our tests and comments from many RVer's indicate that this cleaning method is most often unsuccessful. In searching for alternative methods and chemicals to clean stubborn stains on EPDM rubber, we found that DICOR, supplier of the BRITE-PLY EPDM roofing, in their internet Web site information obtained April 2, 1999, under "Roofing Applications," recommended the careful use of petroleum distillates Xylene, Toluene or Mineral Spirits. Although these are good cleaners, they do not remove mold and mildew spots with any consistent success. If you decide to try using these distillates, do not soak the surface. Dampen a rag with the distillate and wipe the stain.

Hope something helped.

Chris

[Ray,IN]

Thanks rockintom. I would have assumed it is a normal EPDM roof covering too. I get yelled at some for posting in these "cross-linked" threads unknowingly.

[rockintom]

Thanks Chris for the info on the rubber roof. I have never owned one and was concerned about the long term effect on the roof membrane. Now you have cleared that up for us! I would still be a bit concerned on the long term effect on the "foam seal" between the A/C unit and the coach with the bleach. I know the Coleman folks tell me the seal should be changed out every 3-4 years to ensure proper sealing. Also lightly snugging the 4 corner A/C mounting screws once a year (from inside the coach undet the chill grill) to maintain a good seal.

[Workshop]

Tom, my prior was an '89 Kountry Star with a rubber roof. Used bleach on it for removing stains for years without ill effects. The roof was 13 years old when replace for underlayment issues. The 'key' is to control how it is applied and that is why I always wiped it on with a rag and controlled where it went.

Have found on the fiberglass, whether it be the roof or the end caps, if spot treated it will remove the stain. Depending on the strength might have to touchup wax the spot. Haven't had much luck using cleaners to remove in the past, maybe by the time I see them their baked on.

Would agree with the second article, once the mold/mildew gets embedded it might be hard to get them all removed. The 'newer' ones will lift up but it might not make it look new. Having a good protective coating/sealer will help keep the pourious material of the rubber from absorbing more that it need. As with anything, regular cleaning is always the best solution....and the roof is not one of my favoriate places. Seens to take longer for the roof than the rest of the unit. Must be all those breaks because of low oxygen.

[LarryGodby]

Sorry for being but Tom are you telling me you never crossed into W VA when you were on the East coast?

[ChiefJohn]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Have found on the fiberglass, whether it be the roof or the end caps, if spot treated it will remove the stain. Depending on the strength might have to touch-up wax the spot. Haven't had much luck using cleaners to remove in the past, maybe by the time I see them their baked on. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Chris,
Since Larry has already gotten us off-topic , let me continue with the end caps. We had the unfortunate experience of going down a state road that had been recently oiled/chipped (tar/gravel). needless to say, very bad experience -- we removed most of the tar specks with "Goo-Gone" -- however, on the rear cap, the specks did not come off. The tar smeared into ugly brown stains. I think what happened was my end-cap had been previously repainted due to being damaged at the dealer. Evidently there wasn't a clear-coat applied and the tar stained the painted surface. Will your bleach solution work on this problem?

[rockintom]

Larry,
You're so observant! We've been to West Virginia, but don't remember if we did in the rig or not. I know, that it's not a place we are dieing to go back to. Last time I was there I got in a bit of a scuffle with a lady on her car. I backed off when she got real excited and started drooling tobacco juice down each side of her mouth! Hard to win that kind of argument!

[Workshop]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ChiefJohn:
Will your bleach solution work on this problem? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Chief,

The bleach will work on more of an organic stain rather than what you have. I would try using mineral spirits or another produce designed for tar/road removal. After that, maybe try an application of the bleach.

Last week I had a Detailer compound and wax the roof of the Beast. Wet sanded with 1500 grit wet paper, mounted on a sanding block with a rubber base and a lot of water to remove most of the oxidation. Was surprised how much came off. But then again, possibly the first time done since new. Initially started compounding the front myself and decided life was to short and paid ShowBoat Detailers $125 to do from the awning drip trim up and over.

I know, will spend 3 weeks rebuilding the slide and not spend two days waxing! But found I pick my battles.

It has been my experience, as with the roof, when fiberglass gel coat gets dull it gets porous and collects everything. Its the buildup of compounds, polishes and waxes that levels out the surface by filling the voids and gives the shine. The shine on the floors in Target or Wal-Mart have between 8-12 coats of wax to get the shine after buffing. Much the same for the fiberglass.

Might have the same with trying to remove the slight stain of the tar, some has gotten into the small voids and not initially lifting. The more it's wet...the more its diluted. Try keeping slightly damp and using a small brush, like a tooth brush, scrub and see if it helps. Try a 'white' scotch pad also.

Hope something helped.

Chris

[ChiefJohn]

Thanks Chris -- I knew if anyone had an answer it was you! Seriously, Bryan needs to bring you to SC!

As an afterthought, I appreciate Tom being .... well, suffice it to say, just being Tom!