Water Leak

[ChiefJohn]

Well, I've got a leaking utility compartment door as evidenced by a rusty stain. This door was replaced by SC during my last visit due to water damage. I noticed the rust a couple of months ago and sealed the top hinge area, along the edge seam, and removed/sealed the door latch.

We've had over 2" rain in the past two days, which should not matter. Wet today, I'll tackle as soon as the weather clears. I'm sure the door core is saturated.

[ChiefJohn]

Well, I've got a leaking utility compartment door as evidenced by a rusty stain. This door was replaced by SC during my last visit due to water damage. I noticed the rust a couple of months ago and sealed the top hinge area, along the edge seam, and removed/sealed the door latch.

We've had over 2" rain in the past two days, which should not matter. Wet today, I'll tackle as soon as the weather clears. I'm sure the door core is saturated.

[rockintom]

Chief,

Refresh my memory. Do you have the early or or later compartment doors? rock

[ChiefJohn]

Tom,
I've got the later style without the outer flange. All my compartment doors have been replaced by SC due to water intrusion = core rot. If there's rusty water/stains showing up then the inside must be saturated around the door latch screws. I'll probably take it off tomorrow and take it apart.

[Workshop]

Chief, when I rebuilt my doors in "101", it was my thought that the latch and mount screws were the leak link on my doors.

Even with evidence of moisture at the top of the doors at the seam, it was consistant at the bottom and around the location of the latch.

For me applying a layer of sealant in the latch's shaft hole, using screw-bolts that required washers and nuts and caulking/sealing below/around the gasket was my best option to prevent future damage to the rebuilt doors. So far haven't noticed any problems with the doors.....and its been wet here this year.

My door's exterior panel is + - 1/4" of fibergalss and panel. My thought is there isn't enought 'meat' to the door where the latch screws attach to keep it tight enought to keep the latch tight and make the latch rubber gasket effective. Thus the bolt/nuts. Dare it to move now.

[ChiefJohn]

Chris,
Thanks -- I've been perusing your '101' topic and will try your fix. I'll take the door off, remove the latching handle and let it dry out. The water intrusion/leak appears to be one one side, coming out the weep hole on the right bottom of the door.

[Workshop]

Chief one thing I noticed with all the doors was that the panels didn't touch the inner surfaces of the frame, they are adhered to the frame on the fiberglass side and the trim ring on the back. So there was a good air space around the edges of the panel material.

Feel that with the channeling inside the frame, that it would be hard to say it's leaking on one side or the other.....believe more of how off level or leaning the door is as to where the moisture appears.

Initially wouldn't believe that the inside panels would ever dry out when I first started on the repair of the compartment doors. But did find they when from completely wet....to had been wet and dried out. So believe if the cause of the moisture can be corrected, it will dry over time.

If I can help in any way....

Chris

[ChiefJohn]

Thanks Chris -- I'm sure I'll be drawing on your 'been there and done that' expertise as I get into this project.

I'm continually amazed at the amount of water that can infiltrate even the smallest opening. My rear ladder was a good example of this, when I drilled the drain holes in the bottom of the lowest rung.

We've been doing this 'RV' thing for a number of years, several different types and manufacturers, with a common denominator being 'water intrusion issues'. IMO, regardless of manufacturer, more could be done in the RV design and production phases.

[rockintom]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ChiefJohn:
We've been doing this 'RV' thing for a number of years, several different types and manufacturers, with a common denominator being 'water intrusion issues'. IMO, regardless of manufacturer, more could be done in the RV design and production phases. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Can I get a witness? This is the biggest understatement of the year! Thanks Chief!

[ChiefJohn]

Thanks Mr. Tom -- always refreshing to read your posts each morning! Along with a good cup of coffee and the morning news, I can count on you being here.

[rockintom]

Chief,

While most are sleeping in, we're out here "doing our job" Someone gotta do it! Oh, BTW, have you checked the posting numbers lately....I thought so! rockin' over and out!

[MakinSmoke]

[quote]Thanks Mr. Tom -- always refreshing to read your posts each morning! Along with a good cup of coffee and the morning news, I can count on you being here[/quote

Yeah right, like listening to a liberal network news cast.

[rockintom]

Please Mr. Virg, I know you like "pushing my button" but accusing me of being a liberal or even liberal minded ain't right. In fact, just the opposite is more like it. However, I find being "radical" in any forum, is not right either. I could probably be closer labeled as a moderate conservative. Well, now that I think of it, you'd probably think of that as liberal.
Ol' rockin' is too dumb in the political arena to have a decent debate, so I'll just stick to my job of forum and let the rest of you duke it out. Gotta go, time to hug a tree! Remember to vote Rockintom for president....a bottle of Oak Leaf in every pot. Did I say pot....oh-oh I'm in trouble now!

Just looked at the topic...Virg, we may be and slipping into the S&J mode!

[Butch50]

On my 2007 I saw were there was a potential for leaking from the seam where the frames joined together at the top of the doors. I got some of the flexible gutter and put it on the side wall and angled the ends of it and put it on just above the door. This is STUFF I USED.

As soon as we stop for a while again I'll be addng to to our new 2009 30TKE.