Water Line Clamps

Farmer Jim · 02-19-2008, 11:16 AM

I have two water leaks, one at the clamp on the inlet to the hot water heater and the other at the clamp at the cold water into the shower fixture. Is there a easy slick way to cut the old factory installed clamps off with hand tools to be replaced with adjustable clamps. Why they started to leak now is a mystery to me.

Farmer Jim · 02-19-2008, 11:16 AM

I have two water leaks, one at the clamp on the inlet to the hot water heater and the other at the clamp at the cold water into the shower fixture. Is there a easy slick way to cut the old factory installed clamps off with hand tools to be replaced with adjustable clamps. Why they started to leak now is a mystery to me.

Max1 · 02-19-2008, 07:22 PM

Jim I beleive thats pex tubing and the best way I know to cut it is with a pipe cutter like you use for copper or a clamp type cutter so you get a straight cut then you can get compression fittings for pex tubing no speacial tools required or you can also rent or by a crimping tool and use the same type they put on at the factory though you need some room to get the tool square on the tubing so the compression fitting may be best. Any hardware/plumbing store should be able to advise and set you up. I had a similar leak while in Yellow Stone last summer and thought it was the pex tube clamp though it turned out to be the threaded fitting itself not the pex tube clamp. The fitting was sort of cross threaded from factory, and I still should repalace it though it's not leaking at present. Hope something helped.

Workshop · 02-20-2008, 03:09 AM

There are two sites to look at that will give some general info on PEX tubing. PEX Tubing and INSTALLING NEW WATERLINES.

Don't know of a easy way to remove the ring without using a file or hacksaw blade, that sounds like a prison break to me. General practice is to cut the tubing and install a new fitting and crimp a new ring in place. Thats one of the nice things about PEX is its ease of repair without soldering, glues and a lot of tools.

PEX also has a menory and once bent or kinked can be heated and it will resort to its original shape. They also install fittings using a heating tool before installing the fitting. If it is leaking at the fitting-tubing connection you could have a bad fitting or a crimp not tight enough.

As you said, does seem odd that it started leaking now. Might be the crimp or cold weather that caused it to start at this time. Is the leak a water droplet or is it LEAKING!

LLonearth · 02-20-2008, 03:28 AM

Like Max1, we had problems with a leak at the water heater that were a result of the fitting, not the pex tubing clamp. It was not a crossthread situation but the plastic threaded fitting actually cracked (after 10 years). Replacing that solved the leak. Good luck.

rockintom · 02-20-2008, 04:41 AM

This is just a common sense kinda thing, but make sure your not too high on water pressure. We limit our unit to about 55-60 psi with a Watts household water pressure regulator. If you get to the 70 psi area our unit will leak from various connection clamps. It will start to leak at the "weakest link" point first. Just FYI. Tom

Max1 · 02-20-2008, 06:37 AM

Jim, IMO I found that even though the compression type fittings are a couple dollars more per connection than the crimp on rings they are still cheaper and easier as I think you will find trying to get a crimping tool on the connections squarley wich you must do for it to seal properly is next to impossible in the tight areas under cabinets ect on a rv. Also you dont need to buy or rent a special tool for crimping the rings. Below explains the compresion fittings a bit more. Good Luck!

Compression Method
Standard compression fittings can be used to make connections between PEX tubing. For moderate to large size jobs this method is more expensive than using the Standard Connection Method, since compression fittings cost more than PEX fittings.

"Push-fit" and other proprietary methods
Several companies offer specialized fittings that will connect PEX to PEX or to copper, PVC and other materials as well. These fittings use one or more of several technologies such as EDPM O-ring seals, stainless steel gripping teeth, and threaded compression nuts. These fittings are faster and easier than most competing methods, but cost more per fitting than standard PEX fittings.