Community Forums

gdphillipsrv · 07-21-2014, 11:56 PM

Hey guys, need your help. Pulled the '13 Excel 34IKE Limited out of storage for a three week trip up the West Coast. It's been almost nine months since she's been out, so I had issues remembering the proper positioning of the water valves in the lower compartment. There are 4 valves - one to the clear line to suck in antifreeze, one to the water heater bypass, & 2 more in the vicinity of the water pump. How should these valves all be positioned for normal use? I reviewed the owners manual, but it wasn't much help. Also, the valve in the vicinity of the water manifold in the convenience bay that is used to direct water from the city water inlet to the fresh water tank - how should it be positioned to NOT fill the fresh water tank? It's not easily apparent which direction is closed or open.

So with being said, before we took off for our trip, I turned both of the unidentified valves in the lower compartment closed and was able to get water out of all the taps and toilet. I thought I was good to go. Tonight I get to my first stop in Kingman, AZ and wife notices that the floor underneath the residential fridge is soaked, and it's wet all the way underneath the stove and pantry. I'm thinking, did the line come off the ice maker? Or is this an issue caused by wrong valve position? I go into the bathroom and push in the status button for freshwater level and it reads 25% full!!! I'm thinking it's an erroneous reading. Next I pull the handle to empty the freshwater tank and a BUNCH of water comes out...maybe 10 gals or more. At that point I shut off all water to the unit, pull out the drawers and start airing everything out with a hair dryer. I'll likely call Josh @ Doug's RV or Ralph @ PI in the morning, but would appreciate your take on my situation.

Questions I have:

1. What is the proper positioning of the two valves adjacent to the fresh water pump in the lower compartment?

2. What is the proper positioning of the water heater bypass valve for normal use?

3. Which way is the fresh water inlet fill valve in the convenience center turned to be closed?

4. Could the improper positioning of these valves result in my soaked floor under the kitchen?

5. Do I need to get professional assistance to rip out the matting on the bottom of the slide to get it entirely dry?

6. I really want to continue on with my trip; if the matting isn't entirely dry, will it damage the wood flooring below it when the kitchen slide is retracted and I head down the road to Bakersfield tomorrow? What about placing plastic sheeting between the two?

I know, a lot of questions that I should've asked BEFORE I left home!

A little helpful advice will be greatly appreciated.

Gordon & Lisa
Albuquerque, NM
505 917-5375

TexasTwoStep · 07-22-2014, 08:53 AM

Do you have an under the counter water filter? What amount of water did you have in your tank when you started? Do you leave your refer plugged in while in storage?

Tony Lee · 07-22-2014, 09:51 AM

Don't discount a burst water line from freezing.

gdphillipsrv · 07-22-2014, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TexasTwoStep

Do you have an under the counter water filter? What amount of water did you have in your tank when you started? Do you leave your refer plugged in while in storage?

No, the water filter is outside in the convenience bay next to the water manifold. I didn't intend for any water to go into the freshwater tank. It was a valve set-up mistake on my part. Only discovered it had water when I just checked the Seelevel panel. "Refer plugged in", do u me electrically? No.

gdphillipsrv · 07-22-2014, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony Lee

Don't discount a burst water line from freezing.

I agree this is a possibility, but with the water valves set wrong & the freshwater tank filling, wonder if the wet floor is connected to that & not a frozen line.

TexasTwoStep · 07-22-2014, 10:30 AM

Here are my valve settings while using the rv. With the valves in the depicted positions the system is closed. You have leak somewhere. Have you had rain? How about the condensate overflow pan behind the refer? How about under the kitchen, pressurized and drain lines? I would open it up, let it dry out, keep an eye on it and operate as usual. I don't think it is a big issue.

Valves running parallel with the water line is open. At 90 degrees is closed.

gdphillipsrv · 07-23-2014, 10:20 AM

TX 2 step - thx for the great reply including pics! I also had a great call from Ralph @ PI, then Josh @ Doug's RV. Bottom line - the two issues are not related. My wrong positioning of the valves did cause the inadvertent filling of the freshwater tank, but didn't cause the wet floor under the fridge. That was caused by my improper winterizing of the water system. According to Josh, when I blew air through the system, I needed to electrically open the fridge water valve. The pressurized air likely cracked the plastic valve.

In late 2013 PI added a slide-out access door behind the Samsung fridge. Mine is an early 2013 model, so the fridge must be pulled out to repair the valve. Josh says we can add the access door, so it will be an easier fix in the future.

Thanks for all the help - you guys rock. Ice maker water is turned off & we'll roll on down the road!

Gordon

drfife · 07-23-2014, 10:40 AM

Gordon, I too have a residential fridge without exterior access door.

Pulklling out the fridge is not a big deal. Remove the trim strip above the fridge. Remove the two bracket screwws begind the trim. There are two screws imto the floor at the wheels on the corners. Remove those screws. Then the refrigerator will roll forward and out to access.

I've rolled mine out a couple of times. I can do it in 5 minutes. I did not bother replacing the wood trim strip above the fridge.

The exterior door is nice, but not necessary. I doubt I would cut the side of my trailer for one.

rockintom · 07-23-2014, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gdphillipsrv

TX 2 step - thx for the great reply including pics! I also had a great call from Ralph @ PI, then Josh @ Doug's RV. Bottom line - the two issues are not related. My wrong positioning of the valves did cause the inadvertent filling of the freshwater tank, but didn't cause the wet floor under the fridge. That was caused by my improper winterizing of the water system. According to Josh, when I blew air through the system, I needed to electrically open the fridge water valve. The pressurized air likely cracked the plastic valve.

In late 2013 PI added a slide-out access door behind the Samsung fridge. Mine is an early 2013 model, so the fridge must be pulled out to repair the valve. Josh says we can add the access door, so it will be an easier fix in the future.

Thanks for all the help - you guys rock. Ice maker water is turned off & we'll roll on down the road!

Gordon

This all makes sense to me.....and thanks for updating us. My "guessing" at what your issue may have been is that you didn't winterize the icemaker properly, causing the pex to freeze and break. I didn't think of the water control solenoid issue. I've never have winterized a rig before as we stay in warmer climates, but I understand if you do the air blowing trick.....you shouldn't use more than like 40 psi to prevent damage to stuff. But that's why I didn't comment initially. Glad you got it under control. We live and learn from our experiences!!! rockin'

Tony Lee · 07-23-2014, 02:07 PM

"The pressurized air likely cracked the plastic valve."

Or just as likely if you live in the wrong climate, the water in the valve froze.
Same can happen with the pump unless it is drained really well or filled with antifreeze.
Washing machine and toilet are also forgotten sometimes.

drfife · 07-23-2014, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony Lee

"The pressurized air likely cracked the plastic valve."

Or just as likely if you live in the wrong climate, the water in the valve froze.
Same can happen with the pump unless it is drained really well or filled with antifreeze.
Washing machine and toilet are also forgotten sometimes.

I agree with Tony Lee, water freezing more likely that air pressure to have caused the cracking.

I don't winterize. But, I do keep the RV on my property, plugged in to shore power with furnace set to 40° and heat tape or lamp on water line to fridge when temps drop below 30°.

rockintom · 07-23-2014, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drfife

I don't winterize. But, I do keep the RV on my property, plugged in to shore power with furnace set to 40° and heat tape or lamp on water line to fridge when temps drop below 30°.

It's clear that Doc is in the "dog house" in the winter around his place!!!! I know it's such torture to live in that EL Winslow.....poor ol' boy!!!!

No wonder he don't mind boondocking in the summer!!! Havin' fun at Doc's expense!

drfife · 07-23-2014, 06:09 PM

We had a cols winter by Dallas standards. Went through about 80 lbs of propane to keep it at 40 for the winter.....that is when we weren't out camping.