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Mine are 120 lb/ft according to stud size and wheel type on some chart I found on line and my tire dealer confirmed.
Thanks Chief,
A dealer I found locally that sells aluminum wheels, said that aluminum should be tightened about 10 lbs less than steel. He said 100 lbs for aluminum.
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'Last one' 2008 Dodge 3500DRW, flatbed, 6.7 Diesel, 6 speed auto
'Take it easy' 31 ft 2010 Winslow by Excel D31 SKM
Location: Tasmania now, USA/Canada/Alaska in April
Posts: 2,473
I'll add to the number of different answers you get, because you also need to determine whether the manufacturer specifies lubricated or dry studs and nuts.
The chassis manufacturer should give both the torque figure and whether lube is to be used.
DO NOT allow the tyre fitter to use a rattle gun to do up the nuts. Spin them on by hand and then use a torque wrench to finish them off.
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Tony Lee - International Grey Nomad. Picasa Album - Travel Map RVs. USA - Airstream Cutter; in Australia - MC8 40' DIY Coach conversion & OKA 4x4 MH; in Germany - Hobby Class C; in S America - F350 with 2500 10.6 Bigfoot camper
120 lbs. on aluminum. I recheck mine 5 times (once at 100 miles, second at 300, third at 500 miles, fourth 700 miles and the last at 1000) then do the same regiment if ever the wheel is removed.
You'll find the aluminum wheel lugs require some tightening at each of the torque intervals. Each time it requires a little less movement as the miles accrue. After about 1000 miles it is all settled in. rockin'
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