Community Forums

Max1 · 10-02-2017, 03:46 AM

Does any one know if these SLV Fresh Water Pump would have water in them after blowing out the lines? If no water that could freeze and break the pump I may just add anti freeze to the pee traps and not even pump any into pump. I have never been to concerned with the lines as only air left but thy pump am not shur.

BFlinn181 · 10-02-2017, 01:19 PM

If you are concerned about water left in the pump, remove one line into the pump and blow air directly into the pump. Generally, if only a little bit of water remains, freezing will not burst anything, the ice will expand into the empty space.

CARLnJANIS · 10-02-2017, 04:55 PM

I'm a better-safe-than-sorry kind of guy. I blow out the lines and then pump antifreeze through the system so I know I got all the water out. For those who question blowing out and then adding antifreeze, it is so that when I see the antifreeze I know it is full strength and not diluted. I also blow out the gray and black tank flush lines and hand pump antifreeze into them.

I have the time and antifreeze is not that expensive but a water leak caused by a water line freezing can cause a lot of damage especially if it goes undetected for awhile.

I also use the antifreeze to slow mold and mildew growth in the lines. I put antifreeze in the fresh water tank to prevent mold and mildew build up. Several years ago when I had the dealer winterize the trailer, there was some water left in the fresh water tank. All they did was blow the water out the lines. The trailer was in storage for almost a year. In late summer when I "de-winterized" the trailer, the fresh tank and the water lines to the kitchen sink had mold or mildew in them. Had to shock the fresh water tank and sanitize the water lines. What a mess, couldn't dump the fresh water tank because of the bleach so I had to use the fresh water pump. The gunk from the fresh water tank kept clogging the pump screen filter.

drfife · 10-02-2017, 05:37 PM

Why not dump tank with the bleach? It's not hazmat. A cup of bleach diluted in 80 gallons of water won't hurt anything. I've done it many times.

NHRA225 · 10-02-2017, 05:53 PM

Me ? the last 17 Years - I uses Air to Blow out All of the Water lines only !
I pour AF in the drains at the sink P- Traps-- Done

CARLnJANIS · 10-02-2017, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drfife

Why not dump tank with the bleach? It's not hazmat. A cup of bleach diluted in 80 gallons of water won't hurt anything. I've done it many times.

The area, where the RV storage dump station and water faucet is located, is part of the concrete driveway. The water drains to the center of the driveway and vehicles driving through could splash the bleach water on me or the trailer, as well as possibly being tracked into the trailer.

Max1 · 10-03-2017, 09:46 AM

I have always had to disconnect the little clear filter housing with screen attached to pump as is still full of water even after blowing out lines and to Carl's point am also somewhat shocked by the organisms I see. Also don't forget to empty and clean the factory in line whole house filter. Ill empty and clean replace blow lines then empty again and about half full of water, suppose it would have room to expand. Of note this year I added about a cup of bleach into the big one before screwing back.
To my original? I do usually pump a little pink through pump after all of above then blow and drain everything once more closing all faucets or valves as I go closing gate valves ect to maintain gasket shape on all. Guess will stick with what's worked but always do like KISS methodology.

rarebear.nm · 10-12-2017, 07:09 PM

Perhaps this depends somewhat how cold it gets where the unit is stored. In Santa Fe it can reach 0 some nights. What I do is bypass the water heater and drain it. By pass the whole house water filter on the city water connection and drain it. Drain as much as I can at the low level drains, no confidence that really much good. The pump anti freeze through the entire system, excluding fresh water tank, which I drain. The use a hand pump to force more AF through the city water connection. The standard siphon connection won't fill this pipe segment. Last dump a little into each p-trap. I don't have a washer, so no issue there.

Since we continue to use our RV in the winter months I end up winterizing/de-wintererizing several times a year. It takes me perhaps 30 minutes for each operation. I've practiced the routine plenty by now.

I do not want to have the cost and downtime to repair a broken line, so I just play it safe and don't have any issues.

Jdaniels · 11-04-2017, 12:15 PM

Do you leave faucets open or closed after filling system with antifreeze? Our manual says to open after filling system with antifreeze and shutting pump off and closing valve.

BFlinn181 · 11-04-2017, 12:45 PM

Stick the suction hose from the water pump into a 5 gallon pail with RV antifreeze. (This saves running out with a one gallon jug)

Make sure the valves are set to bypass the water heater. Turn on the pump then go from faucet to faucet, turning it on until you see pink, starting at the most distant faucet first. If equipped with outside shower, icemaker, washer, etc., be sure they also get antifreeze or disconnected and drained. The water heater drain plug should be removed, if it's a Suburban, buy a new plug with anode for installation in the Spring.

rarebear.nm · 11-04-2017, 01:14 PM

I close all my water valves after winterizing. Never really thought about leaving them open, never any issue with closing them either. But, I see no issue leaving them open. Don't know the difference in the coefficient of expansion of the two fluids, so maybe there might be a case of either a vacuum or pressure building in the water system. But, I find it hard to believe there'd be enough difference to matter any. PEX pipe has a reasonable amount of give to it and should more than allow for any difference.