6 volt deep cycles

[KC1BUD]

My '07 Daybreak came with 6 volt deep cycle batteries. I haven't been happy with them. Last year I had to add distilled water, this year they corroded badly. The thing is I use shore power most of the time. And only use the batteries for lights and such while I am connecting to shore power.

They don't seem to hold a charge anymore. Should they have gone bad so quickly?

All I had time to do was disconnect them and put the unit in storage.

[KC1BUD]

My '07 Daybreak came with 6 volt deep cycle batteries. I haven't been happy with them. Last year I had to add distilled water, this year they corroded badly. The thing is I use shore power most of the time. And only use the batteries for lights and such while I am connecting to shore power.

They don't seem to hold a charge anymore. Should they have gone bad so quickly?

All I had time to do was disconnect them and put the unit in storage.

[lionel_046]

Doesn't sound right to me. My 03 Intruder still on the original batteries. I am second owner - will be 2 years in Dec. I've added water twice I believe. Harry

[John-D]

There is much you said, without knowing it, and more you did not say that we need to know to make an full reply So I'm going to ask and comment

First, what you did not say: Make and model of the converter. This is important because MOST issues with batteries dying young are either 1: Improper maintenance or 2: Bad converter (It is the converter's job to maintain the charge on the batteries so 2 is really 1b)

Damon gave me a Progressive Dynamics 9180 with wizard.. And a better one would be dang hard to find, I know, I looked, and I've yet to find one, Found a few I'd rate "As good" but none better for flooded wet cells (I could design one better though)

Now what you said that you don't know you said

On another forum there is a question "What is the proper level" And the best answer I've seen to date is around 1/8" (I usually say 1/8 to 1/4) below the split ring. You can go all the way up to the bottom of the split ring but no higher.. I and many others however have found leaving it about an eighth of an inch lower is best. Also make sure the batteries are at full charge when filling them up.

So, what happens if you over fill, which by the way you did (you said so.....)

Excessive corrosion of course as the acid spits out of the battery when it charges.

With the caps firmly in place wash it down with soda (Baking soda and water) Then rinse with regular tap water, I put the soda water in a pump sprayer and do the entire battery area, if it fizzes, keep spraying it till it stops. Then rinse with lots of tap water. Remove the leads, starting with the negative lead on the ground-most battery, and clean the leads and terminals and re-connect, (When you re-connect start with the POSITIVE most leads and finish with the grounds) Check your acid level and add DISTILLED water to bring it up over the plates (if needed) then charge fully (1 full day on shore power) and add water to 1/8 inch below the split ring.

See if this helps. If your converter is a PD. with wizard (Built into the 92xx line) leave it plugged in for at least a week, if it's another model do an equalization run or two if it's offered. If it's not offered.

See if this helps

My Intruder is an 05 and I'm still running on the original batteries,, I find I have to water them annually. Check them a bit more often, but water annually

[BryanL]

If you need to add water more than once or twice a year then your float voltage is too high or they are being overcharged too much.

When your batteries are in storage they need to have a maintenance charger on them that will keep a top charge and provide sulfation inhibition. It is not a good idea to leave them disconnected for more than a few weeks as they self discharge and the quiet conditions make it easy for sulfate crystals to grow. That means they age prematurely and loose capacity.

Devices like the BatteryMinder are very good for keeping batteries in top shape during storage. The Power Dynamics plus Charge Wizard or WFCO converters also do good storage maintenance.

[RV Wizard]

Here are some links if you really want to study the topic.
http://www.usbattery.com/care.htm
http://www.dcbattery.com/faq.html#1
http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Bat...ery%20Charging
http://www.rvsolarelectric.com/sources.htm
http://www.batteryfaq.org

I like the use of a hydrometer to check individual cells. If you have a bad cell the chargers do not know this and will keep a bulk rate charge going boiling out the electrolyte solution in all the cells.

It comes down to, If the cells are good, the connections are good, and the charger is good, batteries maintained properly will last a very long time. Mine are almost 7 years old and in very good shape. They stay on shore power 95% of the time now that we are not boon docking much anymore.

I like what one manufacturer says, "Batteries don't die, they're murdered".

[lionel_046]

Started using battery minders on my boat & jet ski batteries 2 years ago - and they are great! Question on using them on the house batteries. Do you remove the batteries from the RV or charge them in place? If in place, do you disconnect one side of the batteries? Appreciate any inputs. Since my coach doesn't have elec in storage lot, I was thinking of placing a solar charger in the front window and running the cables down to the batteries under the steps. Thanks, Harry

[Bob (WA0MQE)]

Check the date code on the batteries. Just because you have a 2007 coach doesn't mean the batteries are also 2007. One or more of the links RV Wizard posted should have a date code chart. I forget which way it works, but two of the digits are the year and the other two are the week of the year which will give you the month. Your batteries could be three or more years old. Also, unless you've changed the factory installed converter, to an inverter, you don't have a 3-stage charger. The 3-stage chargers are the ones that have a Float mode. The standard converters installed on most coaches are notorious for over charging and ruining batteries.

If you want to get rid of worrying about batteries and overcharging along with corrosion, etc. Then upgrade to a 3-stage Inverter/Charger and replace the wet cells with AGM batteries. They never need water and they'll outlast wet cells for years. Although they will initially set you back quite a few dollars it's well worth it in the long run.

[John-D]

Though I agree AGM's never need water

Where do you get your data that they last longer?

[BryanL]

AGM's don't need water until you overcharge them. Then you have a problem.

The Az Wind Sun FAQ indicates maybe 25% or so longer expected AGM battery life over wet cell in their experience if I read it right. - but it all depends upon proper use and management. see Basic battery guidelines

I'd suggest not using a hydrometer. See Hydrometers, ugh!.

[John-D]

Interesting, the page you linked to made no mention of AGM (or flooded wet cell or any other battery by type) till you got down to the very bottom, where there was a link to a comment on AGM.

Alas, I would like to see some study data showing AGM's last longer. Trojan's often go 8-9-10 years or longer

[KC1BUD]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by John-D:

First, what you did not say: Make and model of the converter. This is important because MOST issues with batteries dying young are either 1: Improper maintenance or 2: Bad converter (It is the converter's job to maintain the charge on the batteries so 2 is really 1b)

Damon gave me a Progressive Dynamics 9180 with wizard.. And a better one would be dang hard to find, I know, I looked, and I've yet to find one, Found a few I'd rate "As good" but none better for flooded wet cells (I could design one better though)

Now what you said that you don't know you said

On another forum there is a question "What is the proper level" And the best answer I've seen to date is around 1/8" (I usually say 1/8 to 1/4) below the split ring. You can go all the way up to the bottom of the split ring but no higher.. I and many others however have found leaving it about an eighth of an inch lower is best. Also make sure the batteries are at full charge when filling them up.

So, what happens if you over fill, which by the way you did (you said so.....)

Excessive corrosion of course as the acid spits out of the battery when it charges.

With the caps firmly in place wash it down with soda (Baking soda and water) Then rinse with regular tap water, I put the soda water in a pump sprayer and do the entire battery area, if it fizzes, keep spraying it till it stops. Then rinse with lots of tap water. Remove the leads, starting with the negative lead on the ground-most battery, and clean the leads and terminals and re-connect, (When you re-connect start with the POSITIVE most leads and finish with the grounds) Check your acid level and add DISTILLED water to bring it up over the plates (if needed) then charge fully (1 full day on shore power) and add water to 1/8 inch below the split ring.

See if this helps. If your converter is a PD. with wizard (Built into the 92xx line) leave it plugged in for at least a week, if it's another model do an equalization run or two if it's offered. If it's not offered.

See if this helps

My Intruder is an 05 and I'm still running on the original batteries,, I find I have to water them annually. Check them a bit more often, but water annually </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Intelipower 2000? I am not sure, will know for sure tommorrow. It was replaced once because it quit charging the batteries. That is the time I found them to be low of water. Properly filled them with distilled water at that time.

Having been aboard ship for 2.5 years as a interior communications electrician I do know how to maintain, how to fill, how to check specific gravity, and cleaning of batteries. These were the backup system for the gyro-compass' motor-generator set which turned 60 cycles into 400 cycles.

A job I did regularly, and even did it under way. That time my thumb slipped in the grease we used to keep the terminals corrosion free and shorted enough of the bank for a muscle in my thumb to hurt for several days after.

Even when the whole system was up and running my house battery performance was less than stellar. Again I don't use the batteries for much other than when I am traveling and while I am setting up other than that I am usually on shore power or generator.

Since it is in storage, I won't be able to do much until next spring. I was just looking for opinions and ideas for then.

[John-D]

Intellapower is Progressive Dynamics.. They don't, far as I know, make a 2000, they do make a 9200 (Which is the same as a 9100 with wizard) and it is in the #1 band converter wise, among the best out there.

Of course this is not to say it might not be defective.

[KC1BUD]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by John-D:
Intellapower is Progressive Dynamics.. They don't, far as I know, make a 2000, they do make a 9200 (Which is the same as a 9100 with wizard) and it is in the #1 band converter wise, among the best out there.

Of course this is not to say it might not be defective. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Your right John, looked at it today and brought home the manual such as it is. It is a 9100