Bypassing latching relay

[Damonoutlw08]

So I’m considering bypassing the latching relay on my 08 Damon Outlaw because the lights don’t stay on inside the RV. I click the Disconnect switch on and the lights will stay on as long as I hold it in the on position but as soon as I let go the lights turn off. This happened on my last trip to Glamis and it was a nightmare. So I took the rv to the dealer and they said that the switch was getting “sticky” and that they fixed the problem. I tested it at the RV shop and it was working but as soon as I got home it was doing the same thing so I just want to by pass the relay and put a perko disconnect switch on the house batteries. My question is how do I bypass the relay and is it safe to do so as a permanent fix. This is my first RV so I’m new to this. I do plan to install 2 solar panels with a solar charge controller. TIA

[hawkeye1995]

The best thing is to look up a PDF file from this web site. https://www.intellitec.com I have a lot of info in my PDF library on the system. Not sure how to upload to you from here. I'm sure if you search this site, you can find some good info.

[YC1]

It is easy and safe to do. It is called the salesman switch/solenoid.

The solenoid just combines the large posts electrically so you can stack them on the same post, put a jumper across them that is large enough, and you can leave the solenoid in place.

Just leave the small wires in place. They won't cause any issues.

These solenoids have caused countless hours of frustration.

[twinboat]

The latching relay you need to jump is the black one.

If you can move all of the wires from under the top, large lug, to the lower one, that has the metal bar, that will do it. ( looking at you picture, which may be sideways ).

If you have a metal bar on that top lug ( can't tell in picture ) then you will need a short battery cable to go from one large lug to the other.
Get one as large as the large cable on there, any auto parts store should have one.

[Damonoutlw08]

Yes twinboat the picture is sideways. I tried uploading the pictures many different ways but it will always upload sideways. I attached 2 pictures 1 picture is moving all cables to the one post that has the black plate and the other picture is putting a jumper cable from one side to the other. Which way is correct thank you for your time

[twinboat]

The silver solenoid is the isolation/boost solenoid. Don't mess with that.

You can do what you propose with a jumper along the red line OR move the wires on the right side to the left side.

[Ilvmygt]

Damonoutlw08


"I just want to by pass the relay and put a perko disconnect switch on the house batteries."




How hard is it to get to the relay? If it is easy, putting a Perko Disconnect Switch (Manual Disconnect) in place of the relay would simplify the system. Your idea has merit. The Manual Disconnect would be KISS (Kept it Simple S...)

[Scarab0088]

Originally Posted by Damonoutlw08

Yes twinboat the picture is sideways. I tried uploading the pictures many different ways but it will always upload sideways. I attached 2 pictures 1 picture is moving all cables to the one post that has the black plate and the other picture is putting a jumper cable from one side to the other. Which way is correct thank you for your time

Errrrr..the shop did not change the right solenoid. The Black one is dirty and therefore surely not new.

Like clearly shown on the decals, the black one is the battery disconnect.

The silver one looks new, but that is the one that does the Aux/cross over and allows charging both battery banks from shore or engine juice.

By-pass of the black solenoid as shown with a short cable will over-ride the disconnect. But, simply moving the cables to the same side will impact how the system measures voltage, how power is pulled to the two fuse outlets on the solenoid, could prevent the Aux-Start from working, and could prevent the dual charge capability....I would not do that.

And actually, I would fix it correctly...a new solenoid is not expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/INTELLITEC-01.../dp/B072N8NYN2

Best luck

P.S. Never heard it called the "latching switch" (?)

[hawkeye1995]

Go to files at the top of the page and download the pdf file "Intellitec Single Disconnect Battery Control." This will help you with your problem. Like you said, Keep it Simple. The relay is not all that expensive, but if you still want to bypass, then this document will help you troubleshoot as well as understand how the system operates. Hope it helps.

[Damonoutlw08]

I also didn’t know it was called a latching relay but as I’ve been doing research online I keep seeing it’s referred to latching relay. I also went to intellitic.com and looked at the pdf files available for the switch and they called it a latching relay. I’m new to all of this and all my information I’m getting is from u guys and online. Thank u for helping me out. What u said totally makes sense and that’s what I plan to do just purchase a new one but if that doesn’t fix the problem I’m bypassing it and walking away.

[Scarab0088]

Thanks for explaining the "Latching" thing.

It's a funny term to use in the RV world because lots of Class A's have actual latching switches to lock basement bins and entry doors.
And these systems are typically specific to that brand. Therefore, when they have issues it can be bad. Parts are often hard to find and fiddly to fix.
I see that is an electrical engineering term:
https://sciencing.com/latching-relay-work-5002602.html

Also, that Intellitec write-up is erroneous. The saleman switch in total does have a parasitic drain - even if open/off. Took us two sets of house batteries to figure that issue out.

[hawkeye1995]

Well, I download the pdf file for you, but I do not see it yet. When I went to check it out in my profile, it stated it was unapproved. Not sure if it will take a few days or not? There is some great troubleshooting steps.


To engage a relay, momentarily apply +12 volts to the "I" terminal, and the "S" terminal is grounded. The relay
should "click" and latch in. To open the relay, momentarily apply +12 volts to the "S" terminal and the "I" terminal
is grounded. The relay should "click" and then open.


"I" terminal is the small stud on the left, and the "S" terminal is the small stud on the right. This would be the "black relay" on the top.



If you PM me, with a email, I can send you the whole pdf document. I assure you it is a clean document, and you can always run a security scan before opening. This document is a complete breakdown of the entire system. It is not copy written, and download from Intelitec several years ago. Good luck. The above is the steps to make sure the relay is working. Relay could be a momentary problem. I would do a check on EBAY once you get the part number. I believe in the files download section, I seen a document listing Intellitec part numbers. According to my pdf file the part number is:



Part No.'s 00-00635-110


Just did a google search of this part number and the pdf guide is in the search. You can from here. http://www.mikerobotics.com/Intellit...5300635100.pdf


hope this helps. No need to PM now. just download this pdf from this web site. I would verify part number with actual part removed.

[Scarab0088]

Looking at your photos again...I see dust on the rubber terminal covers of the silver solenoid. Makes me believe that one was not changed either.

What did the shop say they fixed in the Latching Relay? These solenoids are tamper resistant...i.e. they do not disassemble without damage. So repair should have included replacement - which is actually very easy DIY. See:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/i-lo...ml#post3973100

[Scarab0088]

See the BCC's manual...loaded to the iRV2 files section...for a full product overview:
iRV2 Forums - Files - Intellitec Single Disconnect Battery Control Cente