Damon mods

ctpres · 10-20-2011, 05:02 PM

First picture is water pump after relocating from bath cabinet. Pump output connected directly to existing fitting, (inline with winterizing suction line) only added 24" hose for suction side. Power line ran directly above curb side of wet bay (current pump location) so wireing was easy, in fact removed about ten feet of excess. Cool part is foam mount. I seperated motor mount board and main mounting board by about one inch with temp. side framing. Drilled numerous holes in both pieces and filled void with Great Stuff expanding foam. Next day removed sides and mounted. Pump now below fresh water tank and in heated wet bay so worry about freezing. QUIET TOO. Second pic shows where it came from. Inside space behind lower left pannel, next to toilet, at floor level and mounted UPSIDE DOWN to sounding board/shelf in the open space above. Old pump hoses terminated with 1/2 plastic nipple. About 8 hours and under 5 bucks.

etcmss · 10-22-2011, 05:12 AM

so why do this?

Mafiaman · 10-22-2011, 05:18 AM

Not sure why the OP did it but I can see two benefits,
1) In this position the pump is gravity feed, in the event it losses water it will prime easier.
2) Sound, now it is not next to the bedroom

ctpres · 10-22-2011, 05:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by etcmss

so why do this?

1. QUIET! The main reason for moving. Already had the flexable hoses from the factory, but with pump mounted on 1/8 thick sounding board!!!!!
2. Much smoother operation/water flow (unexpected benefit)
3. More storage space in bathroom
4. Did not check to confirm but should have gained a small amount of power at the pump due to less wire involved
5. Easier to service strainer and pump
6. I am retired and having fun improving our home on wheels.

P.S. I have previously reported on some of my projects but thought it was time to get a thread going on Damon mods with pictures.

ctpres · 10-22-2011, 07:38 AM

First picture shows large wasted space behind board that TP is mounted to. I spent a LOT of time sitting next to it trying to decide on best way to use the space. End result is shown in number two. Can now store 1 dozen rolls of TP in the previously wasted space. Installed small screw eyes on both sides and ran bungee cord thru eyes. Cost under $5 and about thirty minutes.

DGShaffer · 10-22-2011, 08:11 AM

That bungee chord rack is a real winner. I think that idea can be used in a lot of other ideas. I love it

powerboatr · 10-24-2011, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres

First picture shows large wasted space behind board that TP is mounted to. I spent a LOT of time sitting next to it trying to decide on best way to use the space. End result is shown in number two. Can now store 1 dozen rolls of TP in the previously wasted space. Installed small screw eyes on both sides and ran bungee cord thru eyes. Cost under $5 and about thirty minutes.

thats a lot of TP

we should start a whole thread on damon mods......i have done tons of neat pete stuff

like your tp idea

ctpres · 10-24-2011, 04:31 PM

I hoped someone else would jump on this. I probably have twenty mods to post. Most have been mentioned before but not in great detail and no pictures. OK now another bathroom mod. Not limited to Damon. Had a piece of Lexan left over from another project and decided it would make a great baffel for the bath ceiling vent fan. I didn't do any special test to confirm, but just looking at the fan I knew a lot of air was just recirculationg. Cut the Lexan to fit enclosure with a hole for fan blades and just laid it on top on the screen. Rev.1 will include a vertical tube surrounding fan blades or move baffel higher.

ctpres · 10-27-2011, 01:45 PM

First picture is drivers view of passenger side mirror with window fully open. Note vertical bar of window splits mirror view just about in half.
Second picture is view after mod.
There was a rubber bumper at the front end of the top window track. It was just wedged in. Pull it out and cut to about 1 inch and reinsert short piece as far forward as possible. Done
Third picture shows original and shorter version of bumper using penny for scale.
Benefits: better view of mirror and better ventilation with ability to open window more. Cost $0.00 and under five minutes per window.

DGShaffer · 10-27-2011, 01:59 PM

I was just looking into this myself. I was thinking I had to extend the stop rather than shorten it.

ctpres · 10-28-2011, 05:07 PM

Spent a few hours with my head in passenger side wet bay with water pump installation and finally recgonized a potential problem. The suction hose for winterizing fresh water was not capped. Easy for bugs and trash to get in hose and then be sucked into fresh water system during winterizing process. Solution was a simple hose cap from my plumbing box. I am a hoarder, never throw small parts away so don't ask me where to get one. With a little grunting a 1/2 inch CPVC pipe end cap will also do the job.
Picture 1 & 2 are of the hose cap I used and #3 is CPVC cap on piece of hose.
Under $1.00 and one minute

ctpres · 10-30-2011, 10:01 AM

The situation: We have a walk-thru bath and door to pot/sink room opens into hall and takes up some of the hall passage space when open, which is the way it is for us except when traveling. The problem: hall at bedroom end with door closed is 26 inches wide. With door open, the opening is only 19 inches from opposite wall to door knob so you need to turn a bit sidewise to get thru. The fix: Door stop is attached to door about six inches from outer end and left almost three inches of space between door knob and wall, just cut some off end of door stop till door knob almost is touching wall. For me the stop was 1 5/8 inches long after cutting. After cutting door stop we had almost 21 inches to get thru. Picture one and two show space from door knob to wall before and after cutting door stop. Number three shows door stop after cutting. Cost $0.00 and under five minutes.

ctpres · 10-30-2011, 01:54 PM

The upper left cabinet above kitchen sink did not come with a shelf, so I added a wire linen shelf. The rear left corner had a full length vertical fabric covered panel stappled in the rear left corner protecting electrical wires. Since the wire only came up a couple inches before turning into the next cabinet, I was able to cut it down to about four inches high. This gave me a square space for shelf installation. Mounted wood rails on both sides laid shelf on rails upside down (makes a ledge to keep things on shelf) and cut small wedge for right side. Just remove wedge and shelf comes out for cleaning. Picture one shows wire protection panel after cutting. Number two shows shelf installed above cut wire panel and number three the (white piece of wood) wedge that can just be lifted out for shelf removal. Only used part of one six foot section of shelving so cost under $10 and about two hours.