Electrical problems on 2002 Intruder...

erkme73 · 12-19-2011, 07:24 PM

I was unsuccessful at obtaining schematics of any kind from Thor/Damon. I do wonder how a dealer would tackle an electrical problem. Seems to me it would be a straight bill based on hours of 'troubleshooting'.

After at least 2-3 months of sitting with no activity, I went to start the coach today, and the chassis battery was completely dead (<500mv). The rig has been plugged in this entire time, with the stock charger/converter keeping the coach batteries fully charged.

I was under the impression that the chassis battery would also be charged by way of the converter. In any case, when I push the emergency power button on the dash, I can hear a relay/solenoid latch somewhere under the hood (in the Intellegent fuse box, I assume). Unfortunately, even when holding the button in, all the items that require the chassis battery (i.e. dash lights, levelers, retractable stairs) remain dark.

I've attached a few pics of the 'fuse box' under the hood. As I have absolutely no schematics, I have no idea where to look. A cursory inspection of all fuses (including the big 30/50 amp) reveal nothing blown.

Thanks

Eric

wa8yxm · 12-20-2011, 08:34 AM

2005 they used a bi-directional-isolator.. 2002, I don't know. but anything is possible.

When you measured the battery voltage did you measure at the dash or at the battery?

I have had serious issues with dirty terminals on my rig.. Every 2-3 years I crawl under it and clean the terminals and we are good for another 2-3 years.

While I have 'em disconnected... I do a load test.

erkme73 · 12-20-2011, 09:39 PM

Thanks for the reply. As an immediate fix, I went out and bought a replacement battery today. Yesterday, I put the chassis battery on small charger - and by the time I got to the coach to replace the battery, it was fully charged, and it cranked the MH just fine. The new battery is going back - seals still on the terminals.

When I tested the voltage, I checked at the chassis battery terminals - and had around 250mV. I got about the same between the chassis terminal on the Intelligent terminal and ground.

The "isolation relay" test button in that box didn't do anything yesterday (with the dead chassis battery), but after finding and reading the manual on line - it appears that only works if all external power sources have been removed for more than 10 minutes. I didn't try it disconnected from shore power yesterday, but after having a fully charged chassis battery, and shore power removed today, the test button did cause a relay in the box to latch momentarily.

The terminals on the chassis battery are solid, and clean. They're side-mounted, and don't appear to have any corrosion on them. The coach batteries, on the other hand, were pathetic.

The jumper between the two had about 2" of green putty on one terminal, and broke off the moment I touched it. I removed all cabling, scrubbed down the top surface of the battery and terminals with a base solution, and crimped on new terminal eyes. The batteries and cables look brand new.

I had added about 4 oz of mineral oil to each of the 12 cells as per a post I read here about 6 months ago. At that time, I performed a similar cleaning episode, and had hoped the oil would minimize the corrosion. Obviously not. I also noticed that the battery housings were slightly swollen - so I'm thinking the stock charger/converter may not be working as it should. I'm so inexperienced with battery charging, I don't where to start.

The charger is a WFCO (75 amp, I believe). I can provide more detail once the sun comes up (and the mosquitoes take a nap). I know it has what looks like key-FOB on the end of a phone-line cable. The key-FOB has a single push button, and a green LED.

ctpres · 12-21-2011, 06:37 AM

Not sure about yours but our battery disconnect switch will not reconnect a battery if the "battery" voltage is below a set level. So if disconnect switch activated and battery discharges it won't reconnect with the disconnect switch and it won't charge from onboard source until charging with external source, jumped or replaced and voltage exceeds the minimun needed. Manual not handy but I think it needs 10. something volts to work.