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mikey1011 · 11-10-2016, 12:56 PM

I unhooked the chassis battery to reset my hydraulic jacks. but now I have bigger problems. Now the engine is very hard to start and idles rough and the throttle is unresponsive. It is a Ford Triton V10 engine. I let it idle for an hour to relearn the idle setting but it didn't help. So I disconnected the battery again and the problem still exists. It makes me so mad because the coach only has 13,000 miles and the engine is still like new and ran perfectly before I unhooked the battery. Now I have an RV that is not drivable and uncampable. Any ideas???

marjoa · 11-13-2016, 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikey1011

I unhooked the chassis battery to reset my hydraulic jacks. but now I have bigger problems. Now the engine is very hard to start and idles rough and the throttle is unresponsive. It is a Ford Triton V10 engine. I let it idle for an hour to relearn the idle setting but it didn't help. So I disconnected the battery again and the problem still exists. It makes me so mad because the coach only has 13,000 miles and the engine is still like new and ran perfectly before I unhooked the battery. Now I have an RV that is not drivable and uncampable. Any ideas???

I just saw this in unanswered posts. Have you found the solution to this yet?

Mr Plymouth · 11-13-2016, 01:27 PM

I would clean the cables and make sure they are tight

mikey1011 · 11-13-2016, 03:01 PM

No I have not found solution yet. I am now out of town for a couple weeks for work and will monkey with it then. I think I will try unhooking the battery, both negative and positive leads and then reconnect them with some dielectric grease.

gasser 38 · 11-14-2016, 11:03 AM

could you have missed the 2nd positive wire that hooks to battery cable via ring terminal

mikey1011 · 11-21-2016, 01:04 PM

I disconnected battery again starting with the + lead and then the - lead. I charged the battery overnight and reconnected it. First I hooked up the - terminal and then the +. Then started the engine and it idled like crap for a minute and then smoothed out. However I can't get more than 1100 rpm out of it and I can't move it from the parking spot in the storage lot. The wrench and engine lights are still on. What next?

mikey1011 · 12-14-2016, 07:21 AM

So I finally had Good Sams call me a tow truck yesterday to take my RV over to the shop for the engine work. However, the Dispatcher failed to tell the tow company that i have a 38 foot class A. So the company brought a little truck. I questioned the guy if that truck was big enough and he said yes. So off to the shop we went. Once we were there and he was unhooking it, I noticed a large gouge on my left front bumper. I looked at the right side and saw the same thing!!! So, yes, the truck was too small and the boom was too short and when the guy went around corners, he cut them too tight and damaged my coach!!! So, now my RV is sitting at the shop with engine problems, hydraulic jack problems, and now a damaged front bumper. The tow truck company wants me to drive it over to St. Cloud Florida to get the body work done because his "buddy" has a body shop there. I told him that we have body shops here in Merritt Island and Cocoa Florida as well and I would take it to one of them.

So now as for the engine? I do not know yet. I am still waiting for Coastal RV in Cocoa to call me hopefully sometime today with the good news and price tag of my little problem that developed into a major problem ending in a tow and more damage. Yes, I am royally pissed right now and am in need of a good RV trip with the family hopefully this weekend! I will keep y'all informed!

mikey1011 · 12-29-2016, 09:03 AM

So here is the synopsis of my engine problems. I had the coach towed again from the Coastal RV in Cocoa FL up to Ron Norris Ford in Titusville FL. It was there for another week. It ended up being a bad throttle body!!! So what happened? Because I didn't properly disconnect or re connect the chassis battery, it sent a bad electron through the computer and messed up the throttle body. The tech said that there are very tight tolerances in that whole assembly. So, the part was about $350 and then they did a complete fuel system analysis. They cleaned the injectors which were very dirty, and replaced the fuel filter which was in very bad shape. They also had to diagnose the transmission system because the first tow truck driver forgot to disconnect the drive shaft for the tow and possibly risked burning up my transmission. I got lucky there since the tow was only 4.5 miles, but they should have disconnected it anyway. Lazyness never pays off. So, a grand total of $1,435 and a hard lesson learned. So what did I learn here? Anything electrical now on these newer Ford engines you are better off letting a professional deal with it. I could have had a new battery and a fuel system cleaned for about $300 which is a hell of a lot cheaper than almost $1,500. Now I am off to the collision center to deal with the damaged front bumper that tow truck driver #1 did. Ya, they dispatched a small tow truck with a short boom and the driver cut the corners too sharp and jacknifed into my front bumper causing about $3,500 worth of damage. They have to patch the fiberglass and then re paint the whole front cap of the coach. So, I am not out of the woods yet. Thanks for all of your input.