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Old 10-14-2014, 07:55 AM   #1
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Freezer leaking

My freezer on my 2011 Damon Tuscany 42rq ice's up and starts leaking water out onto the floor. I get a build up of ice first under the trays before it begins to leak onto the floor. Any suggestions?
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Old 01-12-2015, 08:34 PM   #2
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Don't know if this applies to your specific refrigerator at all. But in a normal house refrigerator, those symptoms point to a problem with the defroster heater coil not cycling on.

There are two pieces to that could normally fail. A timer.....which when it cycles turns OFF the compressor, and turns ON the heating coil (and then resets after xx minutes to allow the compressor to run again if the thermostat calls for it); or the heating element itself.

What happens normally, is the heater coil turns on, melting any frost on the coils, which then drips into a collection tray and runs out a tube dropping down to a pan near the hot compressor, where it evaporates. When the heater coil doesn't turn on, the ice builds up blocking the drain. Water then runs down the inside back of the refrig, and comes out the front.

You can prove this is your problem by opening up your frig/freezer and defrosting the ice buildup with a hair dryer. Once cleared, your refrig will run for a couple days without any leaking. Once the ice builds back up, it will start leaking again.

Timer is typically on the outside of the back / down low with all the wiring for the compressor. Heating element is inside the refrig on the cooling fins, which may or may not be covered with some inside plastic.

Only reason I know this, is I fixed one of my refrigerators which had this symptom, and ended up metering out the timer and proving it was bad. Thirty dollar part, and it's been running perfect for a year now. No more water dripping out the front.

Google refrigerator timer, and you'll find both parts and maybe even some youtube videos.

Good luck
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Old 01-13-2015, 07:15 AM   #3
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Yes, Find out where the water is coming from (Suspect the ice maker)

U-Line ice makers fill the tray with a timer based system,, It opens the valve for say 2 seconds (more or less adjustable) so at the factory it was set for 45PSI, water pressure. I have seen campgrounds where the pressure exceeds 100 PSI (I measured it, so did the campground) For this reason I use a pressure regulator set to 50 PSI at most parks. I am currently using a ZURIN 3/4 inch "Whole House" type,, you can also use a Watts or Valterra adjustable,, The Zurin and Watts have a bell shaped upper housing with a bolt coming out of it, this is the pressure adjustement. Those RV Pressure regulators that are cylinders about 3/4 inch in diamater perhaps 3-4 inches long... .. Leave them on the hook in the store, they are junk.

Next: Assuming the ice maker is not defective. If you pull the front cover off (use your right hand and just pull) there is a screw near the top, it has a spring type lock washer on it,, Next to it there is an arc with arrow points (Arc = part of a circle) with + and - signs.. This is your timer adjustment,

What I did.

When the line from the solenoid to the ice tray split,, I "Tore" (Removed carfully) the think and put in ice cube trays (Rubbermaid brand).

I get Ice faster, and have more room in the freezer... A true WIN WIN. And I fill the trays from a Brita Filter.. So add one more WIN.
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Old 01-13-2015, 08:39 AM   #4
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Our bottom freezer unit did the same thing. We pulled the drawers from the freezer and unscrewed the back wall plate that covers the evaporater coils and found them totaly frozen. Below them is a pan that catches the dripings when it thaws and directs the water properly except that port was frozen over because of debris left in during the building process. There is also a vented cover that is attached from the back that further revels the evaporator and can give you additional access to the ice jam . Ours had to be unbolted from the wall so it could be easier accessed to remove the screws that held it into place. After getting to the plates they needed thawed and the drain needed cleaned. (it was full of saw dust and adheisive) After cleaning make sure it is runnig free Then reassemble. Our frig is a residential Maytag and calling them revealed nothing as they were less than helpful.

PROBLEM SOLVED.
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Old 01-13-2015, 09:01 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post

And I fill the trays from a Brita Filter.. So add one more WIN.
But the TV advertisements say that Brita only removes 50% of the "stuff" in the water whereas Zero Water removes everything. That's why they call it Zero Water.

Water filters tested for heavy metals removal: Zero Water, Pur, Brita, Mavea, Culligan, Seychelle and Waterman - NaturalNews.com

NAD Recommends Zero Technologies Discontinue Demonstration for Z-Pitcher, Following Clorox Challenge; Zero to Appeal Adverse Finding | Advertising Self-Regulation Council

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