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I know, I know, jacks are to be raised only in sets to avoid torquing the frame. But given that when I bought this Intruder, some putz had already swapped the right and left rear hoses, this rig had been lifted up by caddy corners on many occasions.
Front left and right rear would go down... sometimes the door would even pop open. With the help from the HWH website, I quickly figured out that hoses were crossed at the valve box.
But, while in there, I researched how the actuation works. It's brilliantly simple - and what forces two sets of jacks to go down is simply the cross shaped faceplate. The joystick can move only N-S, or E-W, but not NE to SW or NW to SE. Enter the sawsall. I removed the faceplate and notched out the edges so the joystick would have more movement. It works GREAT. If I stay in the factory notches, I raise two jacks at a time (either both front, both left, both right or both back). But if after leveling I find just one corner a little low, there is no easy way to raise JUST that corner. Alas, if I move the joystick diagonally in the direction of the corner I need, just that side extends! It works great.
I'm sure there will be those that will warn about frame damage, windows popping out, etc - all of which are legitimate concerns. However, given how badly this frame has been torqued because of the crossed hoses, I think she can take it.
Besides, I still use the factory recommended leveling method, and at the very end tweak the low corner gradually.
The only tricky part is trimming enough of the faceplate to allow the joystick enough movement into the corners - without affecting the power switch or the fuse holder. Also, there is a small board with spring contacts on the faceplate. When you reassemble, they have to be lined up properly. I just hard wired the two parts together with about 2' of cable. If anyone is interested here's the idea...
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