I love my Thor | Damon Outlaw!

[Scarab0088]

Scott,
Great news...makes using a solar charger for the chassis battery -or- the house bank very easy
Of course with your rooftop set-up, that's redundant

Larry,
I agree that the pantry is a nice-to-have. The Mrs. and I stock #1193 with all kinds of good stuff and a pantry would be nice. I have looked at adding one with a pantry slide kit from a home kitchen cabinet maker. Basically, you just remove a fascia panel, install and afix the fascia to the unit, like:
Pantry Organizers - Hafele Full Extension Pantry Pull-Out with Free Shipping | KitchenSource.com
Hope you share about this and all your mods

We Love Our Outlaw!

[Scarab0088]

Originally Posted by focker

I went and did a test after reading your post. As it turns out on my Outlaw, the one at the passenger foot well was shut off by the salesman switch. The one of the dash remained on and is not controlled by the ignition switch. It would appear that based on this I should plug in to that one or direct wire to the battery.

Scott,

Here is different idea...since you have all that rooftop solar, and two lighter sockets with different sources...
Why not connect the two outlets to charge the chassis battery? Easy as pie
They make a device specifically for this - $20 on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Wagan-EL9796-J.../dp/B00005OWK2


A Trik-L-Start does the same thing - but must be installed:
http://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html

Best luck

[focker]

I like the idea of the permanent install Trik-L-Start. With all of those panels I have it would keep everything maintained with zero thought or maintenance.

[RV.Driver]

Originally Posted by Scarab0088

Larry,
I agree that the pantry is a nice-to-have. . . . . I have looked at adding one with a pantry slide kit from a home kitchen cabinet maker . . . like:
Pantry Organizers - Hafele Full Extension Pantry Pull-Out with Free Shipping | KitchenSource.com

Steve, Thanks for the pantry link - there are several such commercial pullouts we may still consider as an alternative to a full custom cabinet shop fab. However, the newest thinking is that with the right side cavity as narrow as it is in the production 38RE, a better custom use of the space may be upfit as a "broom closet," plus narrow space to store a folding step stool. With a need for such, and a fairly easy cut-and-hinge job implied to execute, this may be what happens to our 38RE blank board that replaced the pullout pantry.

"Residential" Storage on the 38RE remains scarce, and a problem still to be solved. Some ideas are working their way through conceptualization that would leave the lost pullout remediated, but as part of a "larger canvas." We want to live with the coach first to finalize this thinking.

[Terminex]

Does anyone know where they put the receiver / fuse panel for the rapid camp system on the newer Thor class A's?

I have a new 2015 OUtlaw 37ls that I picked up Friday.

when we did the pdi, I mentioned that the rapid camp remote did not have a button for the leveling jacks.

when I was leaving, they showed me the remote and it now had the leveling jack button. (unfortunately did not try it out)

looks like they simply pulled a remote from another coach, as none of the buttons on this one work, and the slide button brings up controls for 3 slides, and i only have 1.

called lippert, and they sent me instructions for pulling fuses, to sync up the remote to my system, but no clue where the board is.

Thanks!

-Matt

[MonkeyClaw]

Originally Posted by Terminex

Does anyone know where they put the receiver / fuse panel for the rapid camp system on the newer Thor class A's?

I have a new 2015 OUtlaw 37ls that I picked up Friday.

when we did the pdi, I mentioned that the rapid camp remote did not have a button for the leveling jacks.

when I was leaving, they showed me the remote and it now had the leveling jack button. (unfortunately did not try it out)

looks like they simply pulled a remote from another coach, as none of the buttons on this one work, and the slide button brings up controls for 3 slides, and i only have 1.

called lippert, and they sent me instructions for pulling fuses, to sync up the remote to my system, but no clue where the board is.

Thanks!

-Matt

It's with the inverter underneath the fridge/closet area.

Any chance you can post the instructions for the rest of us? Mine works fine (although I almost never use it...) but it could be handy for others.

[Terminex]

called my dealer tech, and he instantly told me under the drawer to the right of the fuse panel.

Did I mention the dealer I bought it from Friday is awesome:-)

to sync the control to the unit, you need to unlock the remote (enter the pin), then while holding the black button on the receiver board, press the "light" button on the remote. -Boom, you are now sync'd.

to reprogam the order of buttons / or what is controled, you can download the pdf directly from lippert.

Link to the pdf for mine. (fyi, there are multiple versions of the "Rapid Camp" or "linc" as Lippert refers to it.

[Terminex]

OK, was looking at some attachments for the dump connection, and my buddy asked me if I have a "poop blender".

Does anyone know if the new Outlaws include this? (something that while it sounds useful, I will NEVER have in my home kitchen / bar.)

He said that in all of his years of camping, double ply toilet paper works better in tanks WITHOUT the blender, but single ply is better if you do have the blender, as the double ply can clog it.

-Thanks
Matt

[Scarab0088]

Matt,

I will venture a guess that the "blender" is a macerator dump pump.

These electric-motor driven devices fit on the dump outlet to pull and chop-up the waste. The output of the macerator is usually a smaller hose and the device can pump the waste up-hill if the dump set-up is not down-hill.
There are DIY set-ups have been made using a standard kitchen disposal and several companies maker macerator pumps: RV Macerator and Waste Dump Systems - PPL Motor Homes

These can easily be added to the Outlaw, but I do not know of it being a factory option.


About toilet paper...the thick/strong stuff is not good for gravity dump or macerators. There are many discussions about this on iRV2. It is best that the black tank's contents become a solution - void of solids, so recommend you just buy the cheap stuff for the RV - and use lots of water. If boondocking (water is rationed) use the flush when dumping...it works well.

Safe travels

[justinnerd]

Wanted to see if anyone else has had issues with their inverter/charger...

Our microwave keeps tripping the breaker but it wasn't until this morning that I figured out why. The inverter is on the same circuit and it seems to be sucking a huge amount of power which then trips the breaker in the hallway even when we're not using the microwave. The only way to prevent it from tripping is to take it out of charge mode. But... since our batteries are really bad and need to be replaced, we lose all DC power within about an hour.

I'm assuming this is a sign of the inverter going bad but I'm kind of a dummy when it comes to electrical issues so I may be barking up the wrong tree. Maybe it's actually the converter that's the issue... but I'm embarrassed to admit that I can't find it.

It's annoying to be plugged into 50amp and still have power issues. Without being able to run the inverter/charger we seem to be out of commission on anything with DC power.

Does it sound like an inverter or converter issue? Has anyone had this issue on their Outlaw before?

[Russtj60]

On my Outlaw the Microwave is on a dedicated outlet that is not supported by the inverter. I switched them and blew the fuse in the inverter.

Originally Posted by justinnerd

Wanted to see if anyone else has had issues with their inverter/charger...

Our microwave keeps tripping the breaker but it wasn't until this morning that I figured out why. The inverter is on the same circuit and it seems to be sucking a huge amount of power which then trips the breaker in the hallway even when we're not using the microwave. The only way to prevent it from tripping is to take it out of charge mode. But... since our batteries are really bad and need to be replaced, we lose all DC power within about an hour.

I'm assuming this is a sign of the inverter going bad but I'm kind of a dummy when it comes to electrical issues so I may be barking up the wrong tree. Maybe it's actually the converter that's the issue... but I'm embarrassed to admit that I can't find it.

It's annoying to be plugged into 50amp and still have power issues. Without being able to run the inverter/charger we seem to be out of commission on anything with DC power.

Does it sound like an inverter or converter issue? Has anyone had this issue on their Outlaw before?

[focker]

Our micro is also on it's own outlet and not on the inverter (nor would our inverter support it). I would say something was most likely improperly wired and should be redone to take the microwave off the inverter circuit.

[justinnerd]

After thinking it through I think the problem is the converter... As once the circuit is tripped the lights and anything on DC power slowly stops working within an hour or so. Any tips on where to find it? It's not in the shore power compartment.


Fulltiming in a 2008 Outlaw 3611
Happy Travels! AdventureinFaith.org

[focker]

Originally Posted by justinnerd

After thinking it through I think the problem is the converter... As once the circuit is tripped the lights and anything on DC power slowly stops working within an hour or so. Any tips on where to find it? It's not in the shore power compartment.


Fulltiming in a 2008 Outlaw 3611
Happy Travels! AdventureinFaith.org

I have questions:
1. Are you using the inverter when you are plugged in? There should be no reason to have it on when you are plugged in however, if it is the Magnum 600 that came in ours then even if it is turned on when you are plugged in it should be bypassing it.
2. Your charging and converting should all be coming from one box and I am pretty sure on the 2008 it would be the same as ours, a Progressive Dynamics 9200 series that is mounted in the electrical storage area. This is the unit I am speaking of: PD9200 Series RV Power Converters

I would call Progressive and describe your issue to see if they have any ideas for you.