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03-05-2009, 01:39 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 5
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HI everyone! I'm new to Damon, and this forum, but have owned a class C since 1993, and camped in the bed of a pickup prior to that for many years.
We just received our 2009 Challenger, last week, and I wasn't surprised to find none of the TV's work on 12v like older RV's. Anyone have any experience or suggestions on connecting an inverter either to the whole rig, just outlets, or just the TV & DVD? I don't need a total solar setup, I just want to watch TV or a movie for a couple hours without having to run the generator when electric isn't available.
My thoughts:
Unfortunately no 12v outlets near the TV or DVD, so the simplest is probably connecting to some or all the outlets in the compartment where the electrical comes in.
Thanks for ANY ideas.
__________________
2009 Challenger Platinum 371
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03-05-2009, 11:50 PM
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#2
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Community Moderator
Gulf Streamers Club Country Coach Owners Club Appalachian Campers
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.
Posts: 8,255
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Jackrock1014, Welcome to iRV2.com. We are glad to have you join us here and we look forward to reading of your adventures and experiences. I am going to put in a short cut to the New Members Check-In forum so others can welcome you to our family and give you question even more exposure.
You may want to consider an inverter that can plug into the receptacle in use now that will automatically pass 120 VAC through itself when on generator or shore power. You will have to run 12 VDC wiring for inversion. Here is one Demensions Unlimited model that might be of interest. There are many ways to accomplish the same goal.
Now if you want to run the microwave and other outlets then a large inverter charger might be what you want.
Also don't get discouraged or think we have shut down as we are getting a new software platform installed this weekend and so it may be as long as Monday before we can get back to you.
__________________

Mike, Certified Master RV Technician
Amy, RV Merchandiser; Roxie & Mei Ling, four legs each
2000 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser w/ Banks & 2 toads
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03-06-2009, 01:54 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Roving, Datastorm users 3192
Posts: 756
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One of the things many folks do not think of is the amount of 12 volt current an inverter needs.
To estimate the precise amount you need to know the inverter load, and it's efficency and a few other things. To "Guesstimate" it you simply round off the voltage to 10
300 watt inveter, 30 amps
700 watt inverter 70 amps
See how easy that is
Now a television running may be as low as, say 100 watts (10 amps) but starting that unit could draw so much power a 300 watt inverter would give up. a larger set, more power (This is for CRT televisions, LCD's are not as bad in this regard)
Now the next thing you need to know
Battery fumes are not good for electronic stuff, like inverters
So here is the recommendation(s)
Install the inverter near the battery, but not in the same air space, use heavy cable (I like starter cable for inverters in the 400-1000 class) and TAPE the black and red (Negative and positive) wires together for all but the ends where they hook to the batteries or inverter
Run lighter weight (14ga for inverters up to 1500 watt) 12 up to 2,000 watt or 10 if you feed a sub panel with a unit with pass through)
Now,, getting the inverter output to the television and DVD player....
Method one is to use an inverter with pass through power. On this type you run the existing power line from the fuse block to the inverter and a new line from the inverter to the TV/DVD
Method 2 is like method one but with larger inverters you may also wish to run the Microwave or other stuff (I have a prosine 2.0 true sine wave inverter/charger) They ran 10ga wire from a 30 amp breaker in the main box to the Inverter. this supplies power for charger section, and also powers the inverter's "loads" when it's there. They ran a 2nd 10ga back to a "Sub panel" (Second breaker box) and moved the Television, Microwave and one other line into that box. works great.
Method 3 is to run to a spot where you can install a proper UL-Approved generator transfer switch, or an automatic transfer switch (The inverter hooks to the "Shore power" leads on an ATS and the existing breaker feeds "Generator")
And one cute method is to either run a line up next to the existing outlet and use a different color outlet (I recommend red or orange)
Or you could put TWO outlets near your existing breaker box, A Red/Orange one fed by the inverter and a "Common color" (Same as other outlets in rig) fed by the breaker that now feeds the TV. You connect a short appliance type cord to the wire you removed so you could feed that outlet and plug into power source you want.
__________________
Nothing adds excitement like something that is none of your business.
2005 Damon Intruder 377W Radio Active as WA8YXM
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03-09-2009, 04:47 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 5
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I've got a followup to my inverter question. I'm leaning towards installing a larger inverter in the compartment where the electrical comes in like the Prosine2 that John-D mentions, partially due to power requirement he mentions, and it will be more convienient to be able to watch any TV rather than just one. I have two breakers for all outlets, so if I can connect to those two circuits I'd be set. I really don't need to pay for the charger since the rig came with a "Wizard" charge controller that I've read is pretty good (any comments?). With that in mind I'm looking at a "Go Power" inverter kit plus an automatic transfer switch. I'd connect the 12v the same place as the Wizard charge controller and I still need to open up the electrical box to see where & how I'm going to connect the AC circuits. I've read VERY good things about the Prosine2 inverter/charger, so that's still an option.
REF Go Power kit:
http://www.outsidesupply.com/index.a...ROD&ProdID=672
Thanks again,
__________________
2009 Challenger Platinum 371
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03-10-2009, 11:51 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Roving, Datastorm users 3192
Posts: 756
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Well... First the Pro-sine has a few features.
1: it is a true sine wave (Works with everything it can power)
2: It has power pass through (up to 30 amps) if you have shore power
3: IN my not very humble opinion there are two converters that can not be beat
You have one, the Prosine has the other. (I know no advantage there) I opted to use my Progressive Dymanics
My prosine feeds a 2nd breaker box, it feeds the inverter powered outlets (3 circuits, TVs (And related) Microwave and GFCI loop (Bathroom, kitchen, and outside outlet)
The big advantage is this: If there is shore power. there is NO drain on the battery
However if you wish, you can feed your "Go-Power" into an automatic (or manual) transfer switch, this switch would feed the sub panel
30 amp line from your main breaker box to the GENERATOR in on an ATS (or your choice on a manual one) Inverter feeds the SHORE POWER in on the ATS, and ATS feeds the sub panel
__________________
Nothing adds excitement like something that is none of your business.
2005 Damon Intruder 377W Radio Active as WA8YXM
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