New Damon Astoria - Lippert leveling jacks not working.

[Kennyjb]

2006 Challenger purchased new Spet 2007. Pump and selenoid out. MFG will not honor the warranty as they say it is from the time jacks installed not when coach was sold. Jacks were run up and down maybe a total of 12 times. Currently in shop and will cost me close to $1000 out of pocket. So much for LCI. Given the option I would suggest another brand.

[KC1BUD]

Ever since I found out that lippert has a way to retract the jacks in the event the system won't, I have carried a two way drill and the bits needed to raise them.

[DBOL]

KC1 BUD where and how to raise Jacks with drill and what size Bits.

Darrell&Rose 2008 Tuscany
Frankston,Tx

[apgarmd]

I know more than I'd like about the Lippert jack system in my 07 Damon Tuscany. First of all if you wire the motor in reverse with both the top and bottom wires you can determine if the solenoid is bad because it will work one way but not the other (one direction or another as you reverse or return the wiring). This is a handy way to retract them if you don't mind a little DC sparks coming off at you. In any case, if you'd rather not or that doesn't work for you it's possible but not fun to retract them manually. You have to open both valves on both sides (I believe it's counter-clockwise to go into manual mode and clockwise to return to automatic mode but you can tell but which way it comes loose). For this you need an allen wrench of the right size, I think it was 1/8th although some coaches allow you to do it with a standard screw driver. You have to reach in and far to the left and then come back towards the motor from the side of your coach (passenger side) to access two of the valves, the other two are right there in plain sight. Then to move the jacks you will need a standard 1/4 hex and a 6-8" at least flexible drill extension because that baby is also on the far side of the motor and very difficult to impossible to get into directly. You can buy these at a hardware store, I have two and keep one in the coach at all times. It takes a very long time to spin the motor sufficiently to raise or lower the jacks but you can go either way based on which way you spin your drill as long as those valves are in the manual position. That's the best I can do from memory, my cheat sheet is in the bus which isn't nearby at the moment. Remember to close all four valves back up when you're done with manual mode. Good luck! If you do have to call Lippert it takes awhile to get through the hold music but once you do they do their very best to be helpful. One last thing, there is a circuit breaker on the firewall in that same compartment but on the driver's side - look hard you'll find it. If that's popped open (which my did while I was having jack problems) the panel will light up but nothing will happen!

[KC1BUD]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DBOL KC1 BUD where and how to raise Jacks with drill and what size Bits. Darrell&Rose 2008 Tuscany Frankston,Tx

Darrell,

On mine the motor that runs the hydraulic system for the jacks are in front of the radiator behind the grill. The motor is mounted on the tank with the valves. The valves have an allen screw on the end of the valve. Turned one way and the jacks operate normally, turned the other allows the jacks to be raised with the drill.
On the end of the motor there is a little sticker and the drill with the bit is inserted there. Run the drill one way and you will lower the jacks and run it the other way will raise the jacks. As far as bit sizes I forget. so what I did was buy a inexpensive set of, I think, SAE allen wrenches, and for the drill I seem to remember that it is a 1/4 inch hex. I am not real sure about the sizes and will check tommorrow and let you know. I do know that some of the bits for the end of the motor are different for older models.