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06-02-2008, 06:23 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Appalachian Campers
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Dixie !! (north Georgia) USA
Posts: 1,663
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Since fuel is nearly $5 I would like to avoid a 200 mile trip to have some minor adjustments made at the dealer. Most I can handle myself, i.e. loose bolts/screws, replace fuse, solder bad connections on eletric etc.
However I cannot figure out how to adust the swing out storage area door on the right side of the Essence we bouoght in March. The top of the latch end of the door is out nearly 1/4 of an inch (bottom to top) further than the bottom. It appears to be sealing on the gasket fine. The door itself is a heavy, 1 1/2 inch thick affair and does not appear to be warped.
There is a heavy solid rubber stud looking device beside the gasket that keeps the door from closing too far there at the top edge, but I am not sure this has anything to do with the problem. It appears to function like those on the hood of an auto, to keep proper tension and keep the hood from bouncing or vibrating.
Any ideas of solutions appreciated.
doc
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06-02-2008, 06:23 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Appalachian Campers
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Dixie !! (north Georgia) USA
Posts: 1,663
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Since fuel is nearly $5 I would like to avoid a 200 mile trip to have some minor adjustments made at the dealer. Most I can handle myself, i.e. loose bolts/screws, replace fuse, solder bad connections on eletric etc.
However I cannot figure out how to adust the swing out storage area door on the right side of the Essence we bouoght in March. The top of the latch end of the door is out nearly 1/4 of an inch (bottom to top) further than the bottom. It appears to be sealing on the gasket fine. The door itself is a heavy, 1 1/2 inch thick affair and does not appear to be warped.
There is a heavy solid rubber stud looking device beside the gasket that keeps the door from closing too far there at the top edge, but I am not sure this has anything to do with the problem. It appears to function like those on the hood of an auto, to keep proper tension and keep the hood from bouncing or vibrating.
Any ideas of solutions appreciated.
doc
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06-02-2008, 08:23 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Johnstown, PA USA
Posts: 1,665
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Doc, Have you looked at the hindges to see if there are slots in the hindge at the mounting screws for adjustments to be made? John H....
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John, Deb; & our dog, Benji, Forever in our hearts.
2004 Damon Daybreak 2960F V-10
2011 Jeep Liberty Jet
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06-02-2008, 01:40 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Appalachian Campers
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Dixie !! (north Georgia) USA
Posts: 1,663
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Yes, there are adjustment slots there. I spent the morning and early afternoon adjusting the to top margin on both doors. More self drilling/threading screws than a hardware store.
I got the top margins within tolerance, but still can't get that one corner to fit right. It looks almost like it is warped (pulled out at the top corner of the latch end of the door)
I know this is not the case, as those doors are at least an 1 1/2 inches thick and there is NO give. I'm still looking. Thanks for the comment
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06-02-2008, 02:07 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Johnstown, PA USA
Posts: 1,665
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Doc, You may not be able to get it perfect. I don't think you'll find too many MH's with fits in seams like they are in cars. Try to get it where you can live with it. Good luck, John H.
__________________
John, Deb; & our dog, Benji, Forever in our hearts.
2004 Damon Daybreak 2960F V-10
2011 Jeep Liberty Jet
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06-03-2008, 07:10 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Hampton Falls, NH
Posts: 359
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Doc, if you take a couple of pictures and post them to photobucket or even link them to kodak easy share, I may be able to help. I assume you have side opening doors?
Chandler
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2002 Damon Challenger 348
Wife, Dee
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06-04-2008, 09:10 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Appalachian Campers
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Dixie !! (north Georgia) USA
Posts: 1,663
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With lots of patience and perserverence I was able to get them close. As it turns out, the hinges on both doors were bolted on with real self drilling/threading bolts (nearly 1/4 inch diameter I guess. These were on the sides of the hinges toward the front. The trailing edges were self drilling/threading screws that are very small. The heads of at least three were popped off and when the door would open, the geometry of the door changed. After fighting with drilling and re-drilling I managed to get them close. For some reason when I tightened the leading edge bolts, the door wanted to rise on the top edge. I put a spacer between the door and closed it, then tightened the leading edge bolts back from the next compartment door. A little touch-up paint is my next project (where the edges rubbed together)
Thanks for the offers and help
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