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10-18-2016, 04:58 PM
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#5251
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 598
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Thanks Steve. Ive tried a few of the things you suggest. I'll just keep after it
__________________
Tim and Gracie with Sadie and Tucker (RIP)
2016 Outlaw 37RB
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10-20-2016, 09:29 AM
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#5252
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 248
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RV Boss
Quote:
Originally Posted by HarleyOutlaw
Tank sensor question.
Both my black and gray sensors read 1/3 full after I empty and read full when they are no where near full. I use chemicals in the black tank regularly and every other tank or so for the gray. Doesn't seem to help. We are parked for the most part now but I have taken it out for a run with the tanks almost full to see if I can shake whatever lose. No luck.
How do these sensors work? Internal or external? What is involved in cleaning them if I can get to them? Are they a waste of effort?
Seems to be a pretty common issue across all brands. Ideas?
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A while back I stated to use RV Boss treatment in a coach that had a lower sensor that did not work. I just learned to live with it, but after a while of using RV Boss, I noticed the sensor started to work again. Ever since I only use RV Boss. I really don't like the scented treatments. RV Boss has no smell.
I also practice what Steve suggested. If I am dumping and my Black tank is not very full, I will add water before dumping, just to ensure I get a good flow going.
I think you will want to try some of the tips Steve gave to get the sensors cleaned up again, but after I really recommend RV Boss. Sounds like I am a spokes person, but really it just works well.
Good luck with the cleaning.
__________________
Jay and Cindy, 2013 Thor Outlaw 37MD (up in smoke and fire).
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10-20-2016, 10:30 AM
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#5253
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Moderator Emeritus
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lone Star State
Posts: 19,203
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Jay,
Is that "RV Boss", this stuff?
boss - RV-Boss
Had not heard of it, before. Liquid or powder? Where do you get it?
Thanks,
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10-20-2016, 11:06 AM
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#5254
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarab0088
Jay,
Is that "RV Boss", this stuff?
boss - RV-Boss
Had not heard of it, before. Liquid or powder? Where do you get it?
Thanks,
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That is the stuff. Sorry I didn't realize it is a Canadian company. It comes in a bottle with an attached side bottle to measure. You can then buy refill bottles. It is liquid. It has no scent, and stops the scent of the black tank. I put some in my grey tank every second trip or so as well.
__________________
Jay and Cindy, 2013 Thor Outlaw 37MD (up in smoke and fire).
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10-20-2016, 11:11 AM
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#5255
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Mid Atlantic Campers Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Virginia Beach, Va
Posts: 1,924
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Happy Camper
I've never used the RV Boss. I have used Happy Camper and my sensors read correctly (they were intermittent before). The company also makes a heavy duty cleaner. Good Luck!
__________________
Russ - USN SWO (ret) - 2018 Dutch Star 4369 Spartan Chassis a Road Glide CVO & Dyna Switchback in an Iron horse trailer or a Jeep Unlimited Alliance Valor 40V13 toyhauler (on order) with Harley CVO ROad Glide and Dyna Switchback in the garage, pulled by a F350 DRW
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10-20-2016, 11:24 AM
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#5256
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Mid Atlantic Campers Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Virginia Beach, Va
Posts: 1,924
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Overhead Bunk
After 2 years and 26k miles, I have finally mastered the over the cab bunk. On our recent trip to Sturgis, my son and his wife used it and the driver side dropped. I had a great deal of difficulty to get it returned to the stow position. When I returned home, I pulled the control box and ran it up & down and it jammed again. I found one of the control wires was broken. Looked like service techs had jammed the "service loop" into the compartment and it broke. I repaired it but the right side still went up faster than the left and the bunk jammed. I went through the override sequence on the control panel and the bunk returned to the stow (ovhd) position. I put positive stops on the bottom of the track, that were not there when I purchased the vehicle. I ran it to the bottom and the top (amped out on each leg) and now it runs perfectly. When I want to use it, I lower it to the lower positive stops. I have always liked this option and pleased I can finally use it with confidence.
__________________
Russ - USN SWO (ret) - 2018 Dutch Star 4369 Spartan Chassis a Road Glide CVO & Dyna Switchback in an Iron horse trailer or a Jeep Unlimited Alliance Valor 40V13 toyhauler (on order) with Harley CVO ROad Glide and Dyna Switchback in the garage, pulled by a F350 DRW
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10-20-2016, 11:38 AM
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#5257
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Moderator Emeritus
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lone Star State
Posts: 19,203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russtj60
After 2 years and 26k miles, I have finally mastered the over the cab bunk.... I put positive stops on the bottom of the track, that were not there when I purchased the vehicle. I ran it to the bottom and the top (amped out on each leg) and now it runs perfectly. When I want to use it, I lower it to the lower positive stops. I have always liked this option and pleased I can finally use it with confidence.
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I really like that option too...but was never in the GenI models.
Are these "positive stops" a DIY/Homemade thing?
I have read about "Stop pins" that some folks have and some don't...lost by dealers along the way 'cuz they don't know what they are for
Please share...with photos if possible
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/outl...es-149108.html
Thanks,
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10-20-2016, 12:41 PM
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#5258
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Mid Atlantic Campers Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Virginia Beach, Va
Posts: 1,924
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It was very a simple fix.... note the machine screw and nut. It provides a positive stop for the bunk on the lower end that wasn't there before. Raising and lowering the bunk to the upper and lower stops, amping out like the slides, synchronize the motors. The bunk now operates reliably. BTW the override procedure on the control panel ,inside the wall of the electronic cabinet over the stove, will return the bunk to the stow position if the bunk jams and stops. The microswitch is pressed 7 times. On the 7th, hold the switch closed until the lights stop flashing. Then operate normally from the outside control panel.
__________________
Russ - USN SWO (ret) - 2018 Dutch Star 4369 Spartan Chassis a Road Glide CVO & Dyna Switchback in an Iron horse trailer or a Jeep Unlimited Alliance Valor 40V13 toyhauler (on order) with Harley CVO ROad Glide and Dyna Switchback in the garage, pulled by a F350 DRW
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10-20-2016, 10:15 PM
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#5259
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Sedona, AZ
Posts: 713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russtj60
It was very a simple fix.... note the machine screw and nut. It provides a positive stop for the bunk on the lower end that wasn't there before. Raising and lowering the bunk to the upper and lower stops, amping out like the slides, synchronize the motors. The bunk now operates reliably. BTW the override procedure on the control panel ,inside the wall of the electronic cabinet over the stove, will return the bunk to the stow position if the bunk jams and stops. The microswitch is pressed 7 times. On the 7th, hold the switch closed until the lights stop flashing. Then operate normally from the outside control panel.
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That's a great find! Glad you found this and fixed it. We use the drop-down for guests but someday it will be used by my kid. It's very handy!
__________________
Tim, Tara and Canyon - 'TnT' (& C now...)
2015 Thor Outlaw 37LS w/FJ Cruiser Toad
Columbia 400, 1967 Corvette, KTM 350 EXC-f, TTR 125 LE, XR50 for toys
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10-21-2016, 12:49 AM
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#5260
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Junior Member
Damon Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: San Diego
Posts: 28
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Shredded Sway Bar Bushings
New topic (for me at least), I was rootin around under my 07 Outlaw and noticed the sway bar bushings in the rear were shredded. I replaced them, and look forward to a smoother ride this wkend. News to anyone? Any other tips to aid in the ride??
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10-21-2016, 09:06 AM
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#5261
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Moderator Emeritus
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lone Star State
Posts: 19,203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zorrito
New topic (for me at least), I was rootin around under my 07 Outlaw and noticed the sway bar bushings in the rear were shredded. I replaced them, and look forward to a smoother ride this wkend. News to anyone? Any other tips to aid in the ride??
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GREAT JOB!! Looks like you went with aftermarket poly bushings(?)...awesome!
That's the way to do it...better and will last longer.
As an FYI to the Workhorse Chassis crowd, our RV's have a very different sway bar design - does not have those bushings.
This photo shows the "Torque Tube" (black square tube, foreground) on the springs that does basically the same work as Fords sway-bar above (prevents body roll)...also an aftermarket trac-bar (grey bar with threaded eyelet end, that's not OEM).
Safe Outlaw travels
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10-21-2016, 12:30 PM
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#5262
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Junior Member
Damon Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: San Diego
Posts: 28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarab0088
GREAT JOB!! Looks like you went with aftermarket poly bushings(?)...awesome!
That's the way to do it...better and will last longer.
As an FYI to the Workhorse Chassis crowd, our RV's have a very different sway bar design - does not have those bushings.
Attachment 142149
This photo shows the "Torque Tube" (black square tube, foreground) on the springs that does basically the same work as Fords sway-bar above (prevents body roll)...also an aftermarket trac-bar (grey bar with threaded eyelet end, that's not OEM).
Safe Outlaw travels
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Thanks for the positive confirmation of my choice! I also adjusted the sway bars settings to the 'shorter' hole position. Both changes should help!
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10-29-2016, 12:24 PM
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#5263
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 74
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I think I am having an issue on side wall seperation on my 2015 LS with 8k Miles on it. The dash squeaks constantly and bounces all over the place on drivers side. There is a great deal of piping and grinding plastic sound at every bump, I don't see any gaps yet. I read where you replaced the screws with bolts. Someone else said Thor told them not to use bolts but to use longer screws. Do you know why they would not recommend bolts? That seems like a more permanent solution. How do you get to where you can see the screws. There seems to be a painted piece of molding/trim that must cover that area. How is it removed?
Thanks.
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10-29-2016, 01:00 PM
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#5264
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Moderator Emeritus
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lone Star State
Posts: 19,203
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Randy,
You might not see the gap, but everything starting to move separately is a tattle-tail.
I never saw a gap, but found that a stiff card could be slipped down through the joint.
See my repair work post here:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/outl...ml#post2896720
And read down the thread for some feedback...
Ripling's here:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/i-lo...ml#post2111723
See F15epilot's post here:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/outl...ml#post2428855
There are others. Will try to find them later
The GenII molding is slightly different but still comes off in 2 pieces...and you can either remove the trim base -or- screw through it - your choice. I removed it to get to and check the original mounting. Since your trim is painted, extra care is needed to prevent scratches.
Thor probably doesn't recommend bolts for this repair because the wall frame is square aluminum tube. The bottom of the wall is a square tube running along the edge. If you over-tighten a nut/bolt, it "could" crush the frame tube and damage the fiberglass and Laminate Wall system.
I used bolts the first time. The bolts I selected were a very snug fit through the new holes I put in the steel chassis frame extensions. This way, lateral movement of the bolt was not an issue (therefore high torque was not needed).
Screws will work but, IMHO is only a temporary solution...which could allow the FQP to recur.
F15epilot reported trying screws, but they backed-out.
The "best" solution could be to "sleeve" the holes for the thru-bolt (through the wall) with tight fitting steel sleeves. This would prevent crushing the wall...but obviously would be more complex to do.
After getting the required long drill bit that matched the bolts shaft size and hardware (nuts, washers and carriage bolts were my selection) the job only took about 2 hours. And, if you don't have some high strength loc-tite, I strongly recommend nylons nuts...'Cuz you don't want this coming apart, ever again.
Best luck
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