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Old 07-04-2013, 12:50 AM   #127
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Recommendations please?

Guys (and yes, you gals too!)

I need some advice on adding some thermal insulation in the drivers floor and engine hatch area on my FRED. The heat transfer through the floor and firewall area in the drivers foot area has gotten out of control, with the temps often reaching well over 100 degrees in the vicinity of the foot pedals while underway. This appears to be due to thin margin of space between the engine and the actual firewall and hatch, but it is mostly right around and under the gas pedal.

I've looked at the hushmat pads, and some other common "thermal" pads for self installation but nothing has convinced me yet that it will reduce the heat transfer in any significant fashion.

There is virtually no insulation under the carpet in these locations at present. The carpet seems to be directly attached to the flooring itself, no pad whatsoever.

Anyone have any ideas???

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Old 07-04-2013, 01:44 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BpK9Miami View Post
Steve, do you anticipate, or have you seen yet, if it will keep the fins from getting ice build up? That's been an ongoing issue with mine.

Dan,

I have not had ice form on the 'fridge fins in my Outlaw. But that happened on my previous TT.

I would believe that the fan would reduce ice formation...because, it blows air on the fins. That warmer air flow "should" melt any ice that might form.

I have even thought about getting second fan to provide coverage to most of the fin pack...maybe if I lived in Texas

Well worth the small price IMO.

Safe travels to all
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Old 07-04-2013, 01:58 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BpK9Miami View Post
Guys (and yes, you gals too!)

I need some advice on adding some thermal insulation in the drivers floor and engine hatch area on my FRED. The heat transfer through the floor and firewall area in the drivers foot area has gotten out of control, with the temps often reaching well over 100 degrees in the vicinity of the foot pedals while underway. This appears to be due to thin margin of space between the engine and the actual firewall and hatch, but it is mostly right around and under the gas pedal.

I've looked at the hushmat pads, and some other common "thermal" pads for self installation but nothing has convinced me yet that it will reduce the heat transfer in any significant fashion.

There is virtually no insulation under the carpet in these locations at present. The carpet seems to be directly attached to the flooring itself, no pad whatsoever.

Anyone have any ideas???

Dan,
You need a real air gap (AKA Heat Shield)
My 4X4 van and Dodge Diesel Pick-up both have aluminum heat shielding from the factory that was mounted between the super hot parts of the engine/exhaust where it is close to and the underbody.

All the aftermarket products are stick-on like hushmat and dynamat. They are very good for noise reduction, but not as good as a real air gap for heat.

It is not rocket science...
~Cut a cardboard template to fit the area.
~Trim a piece of thin aluminum sheet to match the template (thinner is better to avoid heat saturation). You can leave mount tabs at the corners - or use "z" shaped brackets.
~ Bent the tabs and drill for screws - or use brackets.
~Screw the plates in to the underbody.

Aluminum is better than tin for heat dissipation.
More small plates are better than larger ones to discourage heat transfer.
Be aware, this will not really help that much with noise reduction...but you can always add hushmat to the heat shield.

Best of luck
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Old 07-06-2013, 06:23 AM   #130
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Popcorn, I had ice build up all the time even with this fan. Then I was given advice that worked for me.

"Turn the fridge one setting warmer and be sure the drip tray is draining."

My tray had clogged, so that was an issue for me.
I went from #3 to #2 on the temp. setting.
Now I have no more ice. I always use the fan. The temp stays right at 35-36 degrees.

Loozycat
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Old 07-06-2013, 11:52 PM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarab0088 View Post
Dan,
You need a real air gap (AKA Heat Shield)
My 4X4 van and Dodge Diesel Pick-up both have aluminum heat shielding from the factory that was mounted between the super hot parts of the engine/exhaust where it is close to and the underbody.

All the aftermarket products are stick-on like hushmat and dynamat. They are very good for noise reduction, but not as good as a real air gap for heat.

It is not rocket science...
~Cut a cardboard template to fit the area.
~Trim a piece of thin aluminum sheet to match the template (thinner is better to avoid heat saturation). You can leave mount tabs at the corners - or use "z" shaped brackets.
~ Bent the tabs and drill for screws - or use brackets.
~Screw the plates in to the underbody.

Aluminum is better than tin for heat dissipation.
More small plates are better than larger ones to discourage heat transfer.
Be aware, this will not really help that much with noise reduction...but you can always add hushmat to the heat shield.

Best of luck
Thanks Steve I agree with your comments.

I pulled the hatch, and double checked the hood...nada! I beginning to wonder if they missed a Step during my build and failed to either put in insulation or the factory shield? The engine radiator fills the entire front end, and the main circulation branch runs along the right (drivers side) firewall...right under where the pedals are located!

I'm thinking another trip to Elkhart on my way back east may be a good thing.
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:49 PM   #132
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Triton V10 SCT Custom Tune

The shift points programmed into the stock V10 are just killer.

We got a hold of 5startuning.com and ordered a custom SCT programmer. Took about 20 minutes to reprogram, but already I can tell a noticeable difference. We'll be taking the Outlaw out for a road trip here in a couple of weeks and see how it does on the hills now.

To program, you have to purchase the tuner first. Then, connect it to your Outlaw and download the "Strategy" and send that code back to 5startuning.com and they will email you the custom program. You'll need to install some SCT software on your computer to put the custom tune onto the programmer, and then connect it to the Outlaw to reprogram the engine computer.

Instructions for installing the SCT software and programming your tuner are here http://www.5startuning.com/SCTFlashS...emailtunes.pdf

Obviously, doing this may void any warranty you have from Ford on the engine, so consider yourself warned.
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Old 07-20-2013, 01:58 AM   #133
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Stickerless Outlaw

No decals to fade or peel.

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The first and third picture are of Mike Bachman's 2007
The second picture is from a recurring ad on-line, usually labeled "Better than new."
Ad expired.

This post has to be labeled as a "Mod" category, because it is NOT an "Easy Fix"

I just love how clean and timeless they look in all-white.
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:12 PM   #134
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While prepping the Outlaw for a short camping trip, I noticed that some of the flashing and/or weather stripping seems to be pulling away from the cutout that the slide fits in.

Is this something I can just push back in? It looks like the metal trim may be broken at the corner, but I'm not sure if I'm looking a spot that is broken or cut to make the corner fit.


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Old 07-20-2013, 03:15 PM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azreel View Post
While prepping the Outlaw for a short camping trip, I noticed that some of the flashing and/or weather stripping seems to be pulling away from the cutout that the slide fits in.

Is this something I can just push back in? It looks like the metal trim may be broken at the corner, but I'm not sure if I'm looking a spot that is broken or cut to make the corner fit.
I believe we are looking at 2 pieces of the slide seal that are out of place. And it looks like they were both pulled in toward the interior by some force that is not visible in the pics.

The part in the Red circle looks like the seal that it is supposed to connected to the bottom of the part in Blue - Filling the top gap between the slide and slide opening.

The part in the Blue circle looks liked the seal that is supposed to be tight against the exterior wall - it seals the slide when in the full open position - like the vertical piece next to it.

I would move the slide to a partial open position and look for something that caused this damage. Then try to press the seals back into place. The part in Blue has a metal base and looks to be bent, so it might take some coercion.

Click image for larger version

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Best of luck
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Old 07-21-2013, 04:13 AM   #136
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I took a pic of that seal on my Outlaw and confirmed the 2 parts should be tight against the exterior wall. My seal is a little different but it still has the same basic design.

Blue and Red circles are around the same parts as above.

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In the second pic, the cable is an HDMI going to the main room TV and the bar is my Transit Bar (Slide Lock).

Best of luck on the fix. Please post what you discover.
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:49 PM   #137
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Classic Easy Fix

Legs for the ramp to be a deck!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffAZ View Post
I hear you, Don. Here is my redneck deck I fabricated in Taylor Park, CO earlier this month. It took me an hour, using a short-handled shovel and a hatchet. Tomorrow I'm going to install the "Don Deck" using the brackets you generously sent me. Thanks for helping me love my Damon Outlaw more!
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:53 PM   #138
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Another Fireplace!!

Looks GREAT!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by riplingj View Post
Thought I would show off my new electric fireplace in my Outlaw. Was quite a bit of work, but I'm happy with the result.
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Old 08-05-2013, 03:09 PM   #139
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Magnetic Drawer Catch

I have tried to get a good picture of this mod...but it is just too odd of a position, so I will try to explain:

"Magnetic latches for the drawers"

To hold the drawers closed, the slides on my Outlaw are very high quality steel roller bearing slides with a detent at the closed position. New, they would hold tight in the closed position.

But, when they got worn - or when the drawer was heavily loaded, some would let the drawer open while driving.

I used child proofing latches for the first year - WHAT A PITA!!!

Then I got an idea from the cabinet doors...mount magnetic latches...but put them UNDER the drawer on the frame - with the flat paddle on the drawer front.


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Invisible and WORKS LIKE A CHARM!!

Cost: Between $1-$3 per drawer for different grade latches.
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Old 08-11-2013, 04:08 PM   #140
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COVER?

At the risk of starting a debate (Cover - Don't Cover)...here is what our Outlaw looks like with "her" cover on.

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For me, nearby Covered RV Storage is too rich for my wallet ($550 a month and more), so this is the next best thing to protect against the harsh SoCal sun.

I keep a folding ladder in the Garage which is required to get on the roof (unless you have "Dry's" very cool roof hatch:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f120/i-lo...ml#post1650352
or Mike's aftermarket ladder see: "Stickerless Outlaw" - above) and to close the corner zippers on these monster covers.

See Post #379 of the I LOVE MY DAMON OUTLAW thread for more details:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f120/i-lo...ml#post1309930


Safe travels to all
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