Community Forums

Russtj60 · 09-19-2015, 05:47 AM

I am looking to change out the TV bracket in the loft so that it can be seen by both persons. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

f15epilot · 09-19-2015, 08:13 AM

Check Amazon or Newegg for a pivot arm. I got one that folds flat, yet extends out about 14in. They have the brackets that Thor/Damon used as well, sold in pairs. I mounted the existing bracket to the swing arm so the TV can be removed, which I do for travel to keep it from swinging around.

Scarab0088 · 09-20-2015, 12:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russtj60

I am looking to change out the TV bracket in the loft so that it can be seen by both persons. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

This is how our legacy Outlaw's Loft TV is hanging...
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/outl...ml#post1717156
...viewable by either side of the loft, parks against the wall, and is easily moved (ours does double duty as the outside TV).

Safe Outlaw travelz

Sunset Beach · 09-20-2015, 08:47 AM

This 27" Vizio is easy to watch up in the loft. (see 2 pics attached) After removing the original flat mount from the original mount location, I used 4 long screws to attach a 2x4 behind the original mount board. Then I installed a regular Sanus full-motion mount over the original location and into the 2x4. It's been holding and easy to watch TV.

Russtj60 · 09-20-2015, 09:50 AM

Great ideas. I like the 2X4 for strengthening the mount. Also noted is the "Bungee" cord for traveling. Thanks!

Scarab0088 · 09-20-2015, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sunset Beach

This 27" Vizio is easy to watch up in the loft. (see 2 pics attached) After removing the original flat mount from the original mount location, I used 4 long screws to attach a 2x4 behind the original mount board. Then I installed a regular Sanus full-motion mount over the original location and into the 2x4. It's been holding and easy to watch TV.

The photo of the backer 2x4 looks to be shot from inside the cabinet...is that open in your Outlaw (i.e. no interior cabinet end wall)?

Our Gen1 Outlaw already had a thick ply backer board inside that cabinet making the mount very easy to install...no backer install needed. But, because of the end wall inside the linen cabinet, that end of the cabinet is just dead space.

I always find the small differences in these RV's interesting. Makes it most obvious that they are each rather hand built vs. typical assembly line standards.

Safe Outlaw travelz

Sunset Beach · 09-22-2015, 11:16 AM

The cabinet wall has 3 cabinet doors and one ply backer board, in lieu of an opening door. And yes, the picture of the 2x4 was shot from the inside - not me inside - just my hand and iphone! I thought the ply backer board needed extra reinforcement because the original TV mount had 4 screws, and these Sanus mounts use two screws. Attached is a picture of the cabinet wall in the 2007 Damon 3611 loft. Good catch on bungee cord looped through cabinet door pulls!

cmccallum · 09-23-2015, 01:23 PM

Hey gang, I need some help. I just spent a lot of time adding and fixing some things in the coach, and amongst those was replacing the deadly Trimark 650 lock. Problem was, I couldn't do it! Basically, the new lock mechanism has some metal fins on the back (away from the strike plate) end that extend past the dimensions of the old lock, and they run into the plastic housing in the door. The 1650 is on the left, the 650 on the right.

After thinking about it for a while, I thought I could take off the two silver spacers on the 1650, and let the deadbolt housing poke through the hold in the door a bit, to give some space, but that didn't work.

Am I missing anything obvious? I could cut out the plastic in the door to allow the fins to fit, but it seems extreme to me. Plus, others seem to have made it work....

Thanks

Mike

Scarab0088 · 09-23-2015, 02:24 PM

Mike,
The "wings" are supposed to be spacers to pin the lock body into the original sized hole to prevent it from moving within the hole. If the wings are not slipping into the original cut-out, then there might be something blocking the lock on the other end of the lock.

Before removing any material from the lock body, be sure to clear the holes for the latch bolts and striker lugs in the door edge....it's "supposed" to fit without removing material from the lock or the plates around the latch bolt.

On our mod to a Bauer lock, I had to relieve a bit of metal on the holes for the striker bolts/lugs in the door edge...but it was only a tiny amount of material.

Best luck

Doggy Daddy · 09-23-2015, 02:50 PM

I could not get my outdoor patio radio to work. First thought was that the outdoor electronic controller was broken. Then when on a ladder replacing the porch lites with LEDs bulbs, I noticed the MTX 6502 outdoor marine speaker cones were eaten up by the sun and only some wires were visible.
Went on-line with Crutchfield and ordered replacements MTX WET65-W 6.5” Coaxial 65 watt RMS, (135 watts peaks) with 5 yr warrantee. These speakers have more wattage and were easy to install using the same wiring clips.

The UV rays of the sun and elements beat the crap out of everything.

Well, that's life.

cmccallum · 09-23-2015, 05:03 PM

Hi Steve,
I'm not sure we are talking about the same "fins". Here, I circled them. As far as I can tell, they are for hooking the long rod which engages the bolt on the other side of the latch set. I *think* I could simply chop them off, as the single hole that is occupied by the rod is the only one I'd need, but I'm not sure it would solve the problem as the cylinder with the fins rotates, and the one fin I need will hit the plastic frame.

It seems to me I shouldn't have to do any of this; this 1650 latch is supposed to fit exactly as the 650, right?

The "silver spacers" I mentioned are on the end, by the latch bolts. If they come off the deadbolt housing sticks out more than the edge of the latch box. Hopefully you can see what I mean.

Cheers
Mike

f15epilot · 09-23-2015, 10:43 PM

I'm confused as to what the 'fins' are contacting. I did the swap from the 650 to the 1650 and it dropped right into the cutout in the door. I presume you are talking about the silver cover over the mechanism with the four slots around the shaft that actuates the dead bolt? Is the impingement with that rounded corner and the cutout in the door?

I can only go off of my single data point installation. For me, the hardest part was getting the catch plate installed into the door frame. That has to be done since the 1650 pins are slightly larger. If the door cutout impinges slightly, I would make the cutout slightly larger before trimming any on the lock mechanism. The new inner piece with the two lock levers that both go in the same direction will snug everything up when you tighten the screws.

Can you perhaps snap a picture of the door cutout and where it is hitting the part you circled?

cmccallum · 09-23-2015, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by f15epilot

I'm confused as to what the 'fins' are contacting. I did the swap from the 650 to the 1650 and it dropped right into the cutout in the door. I presume you are talking about the silver cover over the mechanism with the four slots around the shaft that actuates the dead bolt? Is the impingement with that rounded corner and the cutout in the door?

I can only go off of my single data point installation. For me, the hardest part was getting the catch plate installed into the door frame. That has to be done since the 1650 pins are slightly larger. If the door cutout impinges slightly, I would make the cutout slightly larger before trimming any on the lock mechanism. The new inner piece with the two lock levers that both go in the same direction will snug everything up when you tighten the screws.

Can you perhaps snap a picture of the door cutout and where it is hitting the part you circled?

What I'm talking about are the square pieces of metal with holes in them which are attached to the lock cylinder. One of them (which you can't see) holds a rod which engages the deadbolt. You can see these fins poking out from behind the metal cover that you mentioned.

I should have snapped a picture. My cutout is either encased by a plastic frame, or the back of the cutout hole is up against a plastic frame (I can't remember which). The latch mechanism actually fits in the hole, with these fins in the position they are in, however the deadbolt can't engage as it requires more clearance for the deadbolt cylinder/fins to turn.

Cheers
Mike

Scarab0088 · 09-24-2015, 12:47 AM

Mike,

The fins circled in your photo were what I thought you were writing about.

Before doing any cutting or grinding, suggest that a measurement be made from the ends of the wings to the latchbolt end of the lock...and compare that number to a measurement of the same points on the old/original lock.

If your new lock is larger, then of course it would not fit.
So, if that is the case...I suggest you relieve the lock - NOT THE DOOR. If you modify the door, then only that lock will be tight to your door and no other lock will ever fit (if needed).

Having said all that...the lock "should" fit as delivered. I am betting that something is preventing the lock from seating against the door edge.

Best luck