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Old 06-09-2019, 01:40 PM   #2521
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Originally Posted by Alaskabev View Post
Any one have troubles getting sound high enough to hear when watching tv.I am thinking the speakers on the tv are tucked a bit back into the wall. Suggestions ?
Our TV has speakers along the bottom edge that create plenty of volume. But others here have added a soundbar.

Soundbar's typically take audio from the TV audio-out, so if you do the TV upgrade then are unhappy with the audio, adding a soundbar later, above or below the TV is easy.
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Old 06-09-2019, 01:55 PM   #2522
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Ah, I thought so. I'll add one at the TV Antenna splitter like I did on my last Outlaw. Thanks.
Switch Box = HDMI Spitter Switch
Because our OEM "SAT Prep" set-up for a portable SAT dish is SO simple, I would recommend it to all...no diplexer, no switching wires, no etc.

To DIY the set-up, add a new cable junction plate in any bin you desire. The factory puts it in the front driver's side...for proximity to the run up to the SAT receiver compartment.
Connect a pre-made coax cable from the back of the plate and run it by the end of the firewall. Then open/remove the interior fascia on the "A" pillar (next to the windsheild - which is used for many other wires) and run the new coax into the over-dash compartment.for the SAT receiver.
This requires a coax of about 15'. These parts are available everywhere - even Walmart.
The new coax can be connected to a plate in the over-dash compartment or just left loose...really doesn't matter to the receiver.

This allows connecting a portable dish at the bin AND connecting campground cable to the other junction in the power bin at the same time. There is no extra bits to fail and there is no chance either signal is degraded.

Best luck
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Old 06-09-2019, 07:51 PM   #2523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaskabev View Post
Any one have troubles getting sound high enough to hear when watching tv.I am thinking the speakers on the tv are tucked a bit back into the wall. Suggestions ?
Like Shadowrip we also have a Vizio sound-bar mounted under our TV. We like it because we can bluetooth music from the phone to enjoy in the RV along with using it for the TV Audio.
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Old 06-10-2019, 06:15 AM   #2524
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarab0088 View Post
Because our OEM "SAT Prep" set-up for a portable SAT dish is SO simple, I would recommend it to all...no diplexer, no switching wires, no etc.

To DIY the set-up, add a new cable junction plate in any bin you desire. The factory puts it in the front driver's side...for proximity to the run up to the SAT receiver compartment.
Connect a pre-made coax cable from the back of the plate and run it by the end of the firewall. Then open/remove the interior fascia on the "A" pillar (next to the windsheild - which is used for many other wires) and run the new coax into the over-dash compartment.for the SAT receiver.
This requires a coax of about 15'. These parts are available everywhere - even Walmart.
The new coax can be connected to a plate in the over-dash compartment or just left loose...really doesn't matter to the receiver.

This allows connecting a portable dish at the bin AND connecting campground cable to the other junction in the power bin at the same time. There is no extra bits to fail and there is no chance either signal is degraded.

Best luck
Heck yeah...never thought of it being that easy....start poking around this coming weekend. Thanks again!
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Old 06-11-2019, 08:19 PM   #2525
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Scott,

I tried to find the fuel filter W8006889 at Brazels, but didn't have any luck.

Mike
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Old 06-11-2019, 08:21 PM   #2526
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Quote:
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Scott,

I tried to find the fuel filter W8006889 at Brazels, but didn't have any luck.

Mike

Linky....
https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/W800...-W-Adapter-Kit
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Old 06-24-2019, 02:22 AM   #2527
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Polished the nasty, hazed headlights today and then put a Lamin-X protection film on them. The polishing was easy, the application of the Lamin-X was difficult. I think we have generic AKA Chinese made headlights that are not the same size as the Ford OEM stuff. I had to do some trimming to get the to fit height wise and they did not fully fit width wise. Considering everything I am hoping they will help give UV protection for a few years and then I will have them custom covered.

Before:


Polishing:


Completed:
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Old 06-24-2019, 09:08 AM   #2528
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Looks great, Scott

I have ordered and tried in 2 different pairs of headlamp assemblies. The first was a cheap pair from Headlight Depot and the second was a more expensive pair from Amazon. I was very disappointed in their poor quality of and returned them. The upside is I am now experienced in removing and re-installing the OEM's. And I was able to polish the OEMs before re-installing them, which is easier. And I have installed LED bulbs into the hi beam socket.

I actually think the OEMs are pretty high quality. The sockets the bulbs fit into are metal, the replacements I tried are plastic, which means they degrade with fitting and removing bulbs. Also the electrical connectors in the OEMs are good and solid, while the replacements I tried were loose and too easily disconnected.

So I am left with the option of spending $1000 at a Ford OEM site and hoping those are high quality or seeing again how long my lens polish lasts. The kit I used is supposed to have a UV sealer. It also helps that my rig is now stored indoors. Previously I had to park it facing the unfiltered morning sun.
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Old 06-24-2019, 10:57 AM   #2529
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Jeff I would encourage you to put on a protection film like Expel or Lamin-X to keep the oxidation at bay now that you have your lights clear. Just have a pro do it or get some that you can cut yourself because the pre-cut is no picnic.
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Old 06-25-2019, 02:45 PM   #2530
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Thanks Scott, I'll look into that. I did finish weather-proofing my ramp/deck and garage. I used RV.Driver's post (I love my Thor | Damon Outlaw!)as a template to get started, and made a few of my own tweaks along the way. It is labor intensive, but I use my deck so much that I really wanted to get it done.
I used the DAP clear sealant on all the perimeter seams and penetrations and the spray can automotive paint for the first couple of coats. I wanted a lighter shade than black, so I used a gray anti-rust frame paint. I had literally a trillion vinyl flakes left over from my RV garage floor coating project, so I broadcast some of those onto the still wet paint. After that cured I sprayed on 5 coats of semi-gloss clearcoat that is UV resistant. I also sealed all the penetrations and seams in the garage floor.

I also replaced the failing flip board hinge at the end of the deck, after much searching I found one at Granger's. Not an exact fit, but it works well.
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[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 06-30-2019, 02:15 PM   #2531
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GFCI for 2013 Outlaw outside 120 outlet

As you can see I have found time to actually work on our 2013 3611 and cannot find the GFIC breaker for the outside electrical outlet. It does not have e a GFCI breaker un the outlet so trying to find out where that would be. It has a GFCI printed on it
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Old 06-30-2019, 02:43 PM   #2532
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Check the outlet face in the bathroom.

On the 3611's, the primary GFCI circuit is the string of outlets that have a greater chance of contact with water. GFCI circults only need one Ground Fault designed outlet to protect the entire string of outlets.

From the factory, 3611's had two 110VAC circuits (see the breaker panel to confirm). One circuit was GFCI protected...one was not.. Outlets that run through an OEM inverter will add a third group to this set-up.

As a side note/suggestion...a quick check of the breaker panel is always a good idea when there is a dead outlet. Check by turning the breaker to off, then to on. This resets the spring release.

Besthe luck
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Old 06-30-2019, 10:18 PM   #2533
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Ramp Extension?

We have talked here about the garage ramp angle and ideas to reduce the grade when loading...well, ran across this on a FunMover (Class C motorhomes fromthe old FourWinds):
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The extension would appear to suspend from the original ramp's edge.

I have seen a similar set-up is on a commercial car carrier's trailer, with a second set of cables that cause the extension to auto-extend...interesting.

No I have not done this, but loading the Smart car this weekend made me consider ramp angle.
Safe Outlaw Travels
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Old 07-08-2019, 03:15 PM   #2534
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FQP Gen II Thoughts

A huge thanks to everyone involved in this incredible thread. A ton of great knowledge and ideas flowing.

2015 Outlaw 37MD, and I'm almost positive it's developed the FQP. Dashboard won't stay anchored to the wall, and when leveling the dash and interior firewall actually move lower while the wall moves up. Not to mention the shaking over bumpy roads.

I was looking at the fixes others have accomplished, and had a though specific to the Gen II. It looks like the Gen I fix allowed for the use of nuts/bolts, but the luan (plastic) covering and foam would be blocking the access for us Gen IIers. I was wondering if I might be able to cut into the plastic covering and through the foam, giving me access to the beam, thus allowing me to use a nuts/bolts remedy. I don't think I'd need to cut much into it, just enough to give me access behind it. Then spray foam / attach new plastic / some waterproof covering to after the nuts/bolts were applied.

Or just stick to the longer more beefier screws?

Thoughts?
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