OUTLAW Mods and Easy Fixes

[Scarab0088]

Originally Posted by JeffAZ

Thanks Mike, I 'll look into that material for the screw holes.
But I still don't have a plan for the cracks in the gelcoat, need something to cover the cracks for water-proofing and preventing them from worsening.

Mike is right about repair to the fiberglass section...epoxy the crap out of the holes and cracks in the fiberglass bulkhead.

For cracks in gelcoat, the easiest repair is a crack repair material, like:
https://www.amazon.com/FIBRE-GLASS-E.../dp/B00144ERW8

Unlike the bulk of fiberglass bulkheads and sheets (a three part medium = fiber, epoxy and hardner) the gelcoat is typically a single part material. Prep, Apply and Finish.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vq5x6K3yKE4

Best luck

[JeffAZ]

Yes, thanks Steve. I think you and I saw that video at the same time. I am also looking at the Thixo Flexible epoxy because it is flexible and non-sag, for the vertical surfaces.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwNNnK-XBMQ

[Shadowrip]

I repaired a crack in a fiberglass shower pan with a small tube of fiberglass patch from West Marine. Worked well and held through many showers and walking on it. WEST MARINE–Gel Coat Scratch Patch

Originally Posted by JeffAZ

Yes, thanks Steve. I think you and I saw that video at the same time. I am also looking at the Thixo Flexible epoxy because it is flexible and non-sag, for the vertical surfaces.

[JeffAZ]

Thanks Shadowrip. So yes today I ordered the EverCoat Marine Gel Coat Scratch Patch material, should be here in 3 days. My LED lights are supposed to come today, so I guess I'll prep the sites tomorrow.

In the meantime I've been doing some water-proofing in the garage. I did the ramp deck earlier this year, and during a rain in South Dakota I observed that the garage floor got very wet almost all the way to the front door, so I have been caulking all the seams and screwheads there.

I have been looking for something to use like a backer board material to fill in the dozens of tiny holes thru the rubber floor placed by the previous owner. Something to carry sealant down into the hole to seal the plywood and provide some structural support. I finally found something that works perfectly. My wife came home with a Costco deal of a gross of boxes of plastic dental picks. They have a fuzzy end that captures the sealant when dipped in it, and carries it down into the tiny hole.

I know this is certainly an "off book" use of a dental pick, but I've used these dozens of times and they work perfectly to seal those old rubber floor holes

If you blow up the below photo, you can see one of the small holes I'm talking about in the upper left between the tips of the paired picks. The pick on the right is shown sticking out of a hole. I will remove this, cut it off at where it is at floor level, hold it with a needle nose, dip in the caulk, and force it into the hole. Then counter sink it with the red handled flat ended tool. Weird, but effective.
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[Scarab0088]

Originally Posted by JeffAZ

Thanks...
...I have been looking for something to use like a backer board material to fill in the dozens of tiny holes thru the rubber floor placed by the previous owner...

Hey! That's ingenious

Any idea what made all the holes in the flooring?

Best luck

[JeffAZ]

No, I don't know what my OTL was mainly used for before me. The only clue I discovered in there was a map of fishing lakes in Idaho. When I purchased it with 5 years of service, it only had 12,000 miles on it, so it wasn't driven a lot. But the previous owner spent a lot of time securing some kind of equipment in the garage. Fishing poles and tackle and whatnot?

[Scarab0088]

I was thinking golfer...those spiked shoes can have very sharp spikes.

[JeffAZ]

Haha! Ya, but almost all the holes were lined up in straight rows, like e-track or something.

[JeffAZ]

OK, I have my gelcoat repaired in the front marker light insets. Now I have started connecting the lights. Electricity and I rarely get along well.

I hooked up one marker light, went in the coach to turn it on to make sure it works before fully installing it. I heard a "pop" sound under the dash or hood when I flipped the switch. The light is not on, and the rear high marker lights are also not on. The side marker lights are on. So does anyone know which fuse this would be?

[JeffAZ]

Here is the fuse block under the dash left of the steering wheel. Not an easy place to access. The 5 amp fuse on the upper left looks wonky so I replaced that, no help. You can see it has a small metal piece sticking out of its perch that one of the fuse blade fits thru. What is that about? Maybe I should re-insert it with the new fuse?
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[Scarab0088]

Jeff,

I would start by looking at fuse #17

I never got a fuse diagram...so I start with this post from Oemy:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/w22-t...tml#post769719

It's for the W22...but similar.

And...remember, something caused the fuse to pop, so double check that light for a short of some kind.

Best luck

[JeffAZ]

Bingo! You are correct, Steve. Thank you for that correct advice on fuse #17. I had the marker light leads hanging out of the small access holes, and some of the wires were in contact, causing a short. Like I said, electrons and I rarely get along, but 99.9% of my problems are self-inflicted

BTW, as I was researching iRV2 resources this morning for my latest problem, I came across this old thread about the relays in the under-hood fuse block. So when I was in O'Reillys today for some new 10 amp minifuses, I picked up a couple of those relays to have on hand. I remember reading this thread a long time ago, but had forgotten about it. Thanks to DriVer for archiving threads like this
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/8-1-l...ml#post1281127

And it sounds like it may be affecting someone in Memphis today:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/broke...is-459306.html

[JeffAZ]

OK, I finally completed replacing all the 5 front marker lights. This was a harder job than I anticipated, but they should be good for a long time. I didn't want to fill the access holes again with caulk, because now the wires have connections in them that would make it almost impossible to retrieve. I looked to me like the OEM caulk here was placed from the back side of the cap before it was even installed.

So I placed the lever connectors in the hole and put butyl tape over the hole with a slit for the wires. Then I put a cut-to-size Eternabond tape over that. Then used new stainless steel screws to affix the LED light with clear caulk in the screw holes.[IMG][/IMG]

Then I put clear caulk all around the light's perimeter, and another layer of white caulk on the top. I hope this seals well, I guess I'll find out at the next substantial rain. The OEM screws were all rusted, so I think that's where it would leak once or twice a year.
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[JeffAZ]

I also had a dozen small gelcoat cracks on the top edge of the windshield opening. I used that gelcoat Scratch Patch material to treat these that I used in the light screw holes that Steve had recommended. It worked pretty good, I will polish the repairs after the material cures for a few days and it should be almost seamless. The bottom repair photo below shows after just one day of cure. You can also see these unpolished repairs in the bottom photo of my previous post.
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