OUTLAW Mods and Easy Fixes

[sizzler]

Originally Posted by Scarab0088

On the second (MD) floorplan, the over door TV is now standard equipment...but has no cabinet frame. It's not very attractive with exposed conduit...huh(?).

Well, I guess that's just reason for more mods.

Safe travels

I agree, I hate that conduit that runs behind the TV to the lift bed. I want to build some sort of track that can hide the conduit better but with the short harness there is little room to mess around.

However, I actually like the TV not having trim or a cabinet around it. I can change TVs very easy, there is a ton of room to add a bigger one too. I like the 12volt TV that is there for the kids, so they don't mess around with the inverter, saving my batteries, although the quality is not that great. My issue with the 37MD is the two small TVs (Shop & Loft) are not 12volt. What were they thinking?

[Scarab0088]

Originally Posted by azreel

Typical.

I pull into the campground after a long trip, plug everything in, put down the jacks and run out the slide and then realize I'm hearing water run.

A quick check reveals the water line feeding the toilet is leaking.

Actually - not the line itself, but so far as I can tell it's the block in the back of the toilet, a part of the flush pedal itself, that the line plugs into that is leaking.

Anyone know if this is a small component that can easily be replaced? Am I going to have to pull the toilet to get to it?

Like Sizzler said - yes, the water valve is a separate part and can be replaced.
You say "peddle" so we know that it is a foot peddle type...some Outlaws have a topside handle.

If you ID the mfgt., you can look on-line for pictures with the exploded parts diagram. It could be as simple as removing the pedestal facia and replacing the valve.

In the short term, by repeatedly operating the valve, it might re-seat. These valves can fail from lack of use as well as wear. Worth a try(?).

Also, does the toilet valve leak while on just the internal pump? Sometimes shore water supplies are well over the approx 50PSI recommended for the RV water system - and this will cause problems like leaking valves - and worst case, flooding from a burst water hose in the wall or floor.

Best luck

[Scarab0088]

Originally Posted by sizzler

I agree, I hate that conduit that runs behind the TV to the lift bed. I want to build some sort of track that can hide the conduit better but with the short harness there is little room to mess around.

However, I actually like the TV not having trim or a cabinet around it. I can change TVs very easy, there is a ton of room to add a bigger one too. I like the 12volt TV that is there for the kids, so they don't mess around with the inverter, saving my batteries, although the quality is not that great. My issue with the 37MD is the two small TVs (Shop & Loft) are not 12volt. What were they thinking?

My first thought was to just wrap the conduit with neutral color cover or tape that better matches the wall color...the black is just too obvious. Good point about being able to easily change TV's without a frame.

I thought all the small OEM TV's were 12volt(?). Is the big TV in the middle room 12volt too?

I got a Nexa brand dual voltage (actually just an external power supply TV) for loft. And, with the Omni mount, can swap the garage and loft TV. Are the TV's on removable mounts any longer...see post #152 - bottom picture http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/outl...ml#post1717156

Safe travels

[Mike Bachman]

Don,

I like your bracket and how the backplate of the TV slips on it. I'd like to put a 42" TV in and have it flush against the wall. How much clearance is there with your bracket from the back of the TV to the wall? I'm not interested in a swivel for the main TV as the previous owners put a nice TV above the passengers seat and that one will swivel.

Thanks,
Mike

[DGShaffer]

I measured 4-1/2" clearance to work with and my mount and the Samsung came in at 3-1/2"

I found the thread I started on the replacement. A few other owners have some nice installs as well

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f120/outl...2-a-84805.html

[focker]

I happened to have taken this photo of the clearance before I started and Don is dead on to my measurement. BTW, since we are both in NorCal, if you need a helping hand with something Mike I would be happy to assist.

Have a looksy:

[sizzler]

Originally Posted by Scarab0088

My first thought was to just wrap the conduit with neutral color cover or tape that better matches the wall color...the black is just too obvious. Good point about being able to easily change TV's without a frame.

I thought all the small OEM TV's were 12volt(?). Is the big TV in the middle room 12volt too?

I got a Nexa brand dual voltage (actually just an external power supply TV) for loft. And, with the Omni mount, can swap the garage and loft TV. Are the TV's on removable mounts any longer...see post #152 - bottom picture http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/outl...ml#post1717156

Safe travels

There are 5 TVs in the 37MD. The one above the front entry door, the one outside, and the one in the rear living room are 12volt, possibly dual. Most likely they require a inverter style plug for 110. The two smallest TVs, the one in the loft and the one in the shop are both AC only. Go figure?

The mounts are terrible. You have to get at the back of the TV to remove the screws to remove the TVs. I have access to some thin flush removable mounts that I could bolt right onto the existing mount, but I have enough TVs, so I don't think I will need to move them around much. I will be putting a rocker switch to kill the DC power to the 3 12volt TVs to save my batteries from the small draw.

Good idea with the wrap. You can buy the 3M tape for the wall seams on the Outlaws. I will have to look into that if I can't get enough length to build some sort of pocket for the harness. I guess I could always extend the wires too.

[focker]

Does anyone know if we have a amplifier somewhere for our rooftop antenna? I was nosing around at little and didn't see one so I thought I would ask before I start looking in earnest if there is one.

[Scarab0088]

Originally Posted by focker

Does anyone know if we have a amplifier somewhere for our rooftop antenna? I was nosing around at little and didn't see one so I thought I would ask before I start looking in earnest if there is one.

In my set-up it is part of the BOMB....far left side button on the VS-0604.

click to enlarge

If not - then it might be a separate panel in the cabinet where the OEM DVD was...look for something with a button and red light to show it is turned-on.

Later~

[focker]

My stock switcher is much smaller than yours and I believe it is passive with no electricity going to it. I will take a closer look around tonight and see if I see something.

[DGShaffer]

Mine was smaller too and I don't think there was a light indicating that power was in fact being sent but the power button did have a positing where in was on and out was off. The jack antenna has a light on it so that was the only real indication I had that 12 volts was being sent out.

[focker]

I have the Sensar antenna and added the Wingman on the other night. It helped only slightly if at all for pulling more stations so I am thinking I probably need a amplifier if I don't already have one. There is no indication of power on a Sensar. Was thinking about installing a SensarPro if I don't have an amplifier.
Did you have a Jack on your Outlaw or is that what you have on your Challenger?

[Scarab0088]

Originally Posted by focker

I have the Sensar antenna and added the Wingman on the other night. It helped only slightly if at all for pulling more stations so I am thinking I probably need a amplifier if I don't already have one. There is no indication of power on a Sensar. Was thinking about installing a SensarPro if I don't have an amplifier.
Did you have a Jack on your Outlaw or is that what you have on your Challenger?

Scott,

If you do not have a signal amp on the Sensar, then you need one.
The signal amp from Winegard looks like the thing on page 3 of this manual:
http://www.winegard.com/kbase/upload/2451808.pdf

This is easy to test, being a 12 volt thing...pick the weakest channel you have on your TV and cycle the salesman switch off-and-on. The 12VDC in the coach will turn on and off to any amp (if you have one) and you will see an obvious difference on the TV clarity.

The "Jack" has a signal amp as part of the set-up...so those that replace their Batwing with a Jack have to remove the Winegard amp - because 2 amps do not work.

Best luck

[focker]

I don't see anything like that anywhere visible but I will do some checking tonight. I love your idea of how to check for it! When I am parked at home the Salesman switch (I never have heard that term but I love it) is off so will try that tonight and see how the signal looks.
If I don't have one I guess I will have a new project to install a SensarPro.
I did get the right angle HDMI cable today so the TV project will now be complete.