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09-18-2014, 07:14 AM
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#869
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: VA
Posts: 91
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I made lots of mods to my Outlaw while still under warranty. I installed a complete Banks Power Pack. I added air bag, helper springs at all 4 corners, with an on-board compressor for on the road adjustments. I replaced the front anti-sway bar and added an additional one to the rear. And, recently, I added a ladder to the side. I've also been to Thor 3 times for warranty service, there were no issues with my mods.
Buy the Outlaw, you will love it.
__________________
Jeff Riplinger, 2013 Outlaw, 2014 Sportster 1200, 2007 Sportster 883, 1985 Goldwing, 2006 YZ250f,
and 1999 Chevy Tracker in tow
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09-18-2014, 09:51 AM
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#870
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Sedona, AZ
Posts: 713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminex
I am AlMOST done. Just a quick question, for those who bought new, what are your thoughts on the price delta between a fall vs spring purchase?
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The nice thing about new is that you have a blank slate to work with and the newest model with the latest stuff. Some mods are fun to do and make the RV unique to you (solar, fireplace, etc) and some are just necessary (HDMI wiring if you like to watch HDTV). The 'necessary' ones can be more chore than fun, at least for me.
There were also some things on the latest model that were difficult or nearly impossible to do on older models (26K chassis and rear awning).
That said, I originally tried to buy a 1-yr old vehicle because the first few years of depreciation tend to be the highest. The sale fell through and we decided to buy new. The factory warranty has been nice although it is arguable that a slightly older vehicle would have most of the issues worked out. I'm still finding little things here and there and there are a couple of issues that haven't been resolved yet.
A lot of it comes down to your needs - will the older model fit your needs and wants? Do you want to mod it yourself or buy one already tricked out? Are you willing to take the hit on value if you buy new?
I don't think the difference in season will make as big a difference as you may think. When I purchased my new 2015, the 2014 leftover's were selling for not much less. There seem to be used 1-yr old vehicles coming up on RV Trader and other sites for a pretty good discount. This could be another way to go if you want a newer model but don't want to take the depreciation hit.
__________________
Tim, Tara and Canyon - 'TnT' (& C now...)
2015 Thor Outlaw 37LS w/FJ Cruiser Toad
Columbia 400, 1967 Corvette, KTM 350 EXC-f, TTR 125 LE, XR50 for toys
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09-23-2014, 03:37 PM
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#871
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,358
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Super easy fix... Had the TNP on the Atwood water heater drip and leak occasionally so I picked one up for about $10 and changed it out yesterday. Old one was fairly corroded. No more dripping.
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09-24-2014, 12:42 AM
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#872
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Moderator Emeritus
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lone Star State
Posts: 19,203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by focker
I dropped off the Outlaw yesterday at DeMartini to get the front floors properly attached to the walls and there was a fairly new Outlaw in for service, anyone here?
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Well...?
What's the verdict on the repair? Any photos to share?
After this and other comments, we checked ours, but found no slack or gap in the sidewall/floor joint that was visible to check.
Safe Mods
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09-24-2014, 02:50 AM
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#873
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Hollywood Beach, FL & New Braunfels, TX
Posts: 863
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkeyClaw
Another question - Anybody use Hushmat or something similar to cut back on the engine and fan noise? It's more the fan than the engine, but the whole area could be quieter.
Where did you put it? Just the dog house? Or all over the engine compartment?
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I had a contact in Austin who did that Mod for me. I was trying to reduce the noise and heat issues. The entire floor and doghouse were done, but sadly, heat was reduced by only about 10 degrees and the noise level was not reduced appreciatedly. When it was in for service at Cummins I asked about insulation as well, again, there was no real solution.
If I did it again I'd look for something high end in a product. Hush mat (& it's a,good product) just didn't work for my FRED.
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09-24-2014, 09:55 AM
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#874
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarab0088
Well...?
What's the verdict on the repair? Any photos to share?
After this and other comments, we checked ours, but found no slack or gap in the sidewall/floor joint that was visible to check.
Safe Mods
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Everything is solid and quiet now. We didn't have any gaps but as we would drive down the road we would get squeaking and popping sounds in both the driver and passenger front sides of the coach. When I put my hand on the floor against the wall you could feel the wall moving up and down with no movement in the floor (obviously it was just the opposite, the floor was moving but the wall wasn't) so we knew we had an issue.
So much quieter driving the 60 miles home from the repair shop, probably been a problem for a long time.
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09-24-2014, 12:11 PM
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#875
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Sedona, AZ
Posts: 713
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I'm in the process of adding my garage door screen. Any thoughts on the top corners where the cables for the door interface with the screen? I'm thinking of not having that part attached, but there will be a little gap there. How did everyone else handle this?
Also, the attachment screen that comes stock with the Outlaw at the bottom of the door that attaches the side rails to the bus? I'm thinking just attach the velcro to the screen and see if that works? I can always leave them unattached too. It seems they add a little structural strength to the side rails.
__________________
Tim, Tara and Canyon - 'TnT' (& C now...)
2015 Thor Outlaw 37LS w/FJ Cruiser Toad
Columbia 400, 1967 Corvette, KTM 350 EXC-f, TTR 125 LE, XR50 for toys
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09-24-2014, 12:21 PM
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#876
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Sedona, AZ
Posts: 713
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I added the Oxygenics shower head this week. So far it's a winner. It's not like one of those power-sprayer massage shower heads, but it's better than the stock one and uses less water at the same time. It was super easy - I used the same hose that came stock, so I only had to unscrew the old one, screw in the shut-off valve that came with the Oxygenics, then screw in the Oxygenics. All by hand, no leaks and nothing broken.
I also added a paper towel holder. It's hard to believe I'm the only person in the RV world that uses paper towels, as I've never seen one that includes them stock.
__________________
Tim, Tara and Canyon - 'TnT' (& C now...)
2015 Thor Outlaw 37LS w/FJ Cruiser Toad
Columbia 400, 1967 Corvette, KTM 350 EXC-f, TTR 125 LE, XR50 for toys
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09-24-2014, 06:05 PM
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#877
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,358
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We changed to the Oxygenics also. At first my wife didn't like the way it just kind of throws the water around but now she doesn't mind it.
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09-24-2014, 06:30 PM
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#878
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,784
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MonkeyClaw, are you talking about a papertowel holder in the kitchen? I would love one in there but I can't find a place that would be out of the way of the counter and still be convenient. Where did you place yours?
My home-made Don deck doesn't have the cable attachment inside the garage like your photo apparently shows, so it doesn't interfere with the screen fitting against the wall. FWIW, I'm in AZ also, and I installed the screen last summer, and I've never had to use it (to repel flying insects).
__________________
Jeff, Catherine and Turner|2008 Damon Outlaw 3611|W24 w/ 8.1L Chevy hauling in the garage 3 quads,2 dirtbikes,2 CanAm Rykers,1 Rzr900xp, 1 smart42 & 1 sewing machine based in central AZ
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09-24-2014, 09:45 PM
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#879
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Sedona, AZ
Posts: 713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffAZ
MonkeyClaw, are you talking about a papertowel holder in the kitchen? I would love one in there but I can't find a place that would be out of the way of the counter and still be convenient. Where did you place yours?
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I attached a picture. I don't know if it's the BEST place in the world, but it had to go somewhere. We found the holder in the bargain bin at a local kitchen store in Sedona. My wife loves the placement and it is as out of the way as I could find while still being easy to get to. It matches the brushed nickel look of the rest of the fittings, and has a friction roller so it won't unroll while we're driving (in theory - I'll find out). We rarely use the over-sink light and when we do, it's just the one side that's on in the pic. Even when both sides are turned on the holder doesn't seem to impede it much.
Quote:
My home-made Don deck doesn't have the cable attachment inside the garage like your photo apparently shows, so it doesn't interfere with the screen fitting against the wall. FWIW, I'm in AZ also, and I installed the screen last summer, and I've never had to use it (to repel flying insects).
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I ended up going up to the mounts and putting a little more on the mounts themselves. Seems to be OK. I can use some foam or weatherstripping to seal off the other areas around there if I notice bugs getting in. I got a doggie-door sewn into the door too so I imagine bugs will be coming in that way anyway We don't want to teach the dogs to push their way through the screen in case they decide to push their way through ALL screens.
What about on the low part, where the stock screens snap on to the wall? Are you just leaving them unsnapped?
We're lucky in AZ that we don't have a lot of bugs. I'm like thanksgiving dinner to mosquitoes, so when we travel to places with more bugs I'd like to be ready! I may even add another screen to the garage door. We bought one of those As-Seen-on-TV magnetic screen things for our home but it's too small for our doors. Should fit the Outlaw pretty well though!
__________________
Tim, Tara and Canyon - 'TnT' (& C now...)
2015 Thor Outlaw 37LS w/FJ Cruiser Toad
Columbia 400, 1967 Corvette, KTM 350 EXC-f, TTR 125 LE, XR50 for toys
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09-24-2014, 10:44 PM
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#880
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,784
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Ya, thanks for the photo MonkeyClaw. I think that would be too much in the way of the sink for me, but it does hug the cabinet bottom well.
That tv marketed magnetic screen looks interesting, esp. for the door from the garage to the interior. Let us know if that works.
I'm glad to see you are having a good trip in your new OTL!
__________________
Jeff, Catherine and Turner|2008 Damon Outlaw 3611|W24 w/ 8.1L Chevy hauling in the garage 3 quads,2 dirtbikes,2 CanAm Rykers,1 Rzr900xp, 1 smart42 & 1 sewing machine based in central AZ
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09-25-2014, 10:01 AM
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#881
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Sedona, AZ
Posts: 713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffAZ
Ya, thanks for the photo MonkeyClaw. I think that would be too much in the way of the sink for me, but it does hug the cabinet bottom well.
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Yeah, that was my concern also. As you can see from these other pictures, it ends up being pretty out of the way as it is high above the sink and slightly behind it (sorry for the mess). We don't usually have anything in this spot excepts keys, purse, wallet, etc. so it isn't interfering with anything.
Quote:
That tv marketed magnetic screen looks interesting, esp. for the door from the garage to the interior. Let us know if that works.
I'm glad to see you are having a good trip in your new OTL!
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I'll let you know how the other screen goes. It comes with two screens that theoretically cover the space of a standard sliding door. As it is, one screen is too small to cover the door and two are too big. I'm trying to figure out the best fix for this now.
Another thing I learned on this trip - DO NOT USE LOCTITE ON PLASTIC! My wife noticed one of the handles rattled loose on the shower. I decided to nip this issue in the bud by applying loctite blue on the threads. Next time I tried to use them, they literally fell off just by touching them. In all my wisdom, I did the handles on the sink and the shower, so now there are no handled on any of them We did some research and they are made by Dura Faucet (they appear to be the metal kind ( Classical Lever Handles - Metal | Dura Faucet) as the plastic have a different connection mechanism). We haven't ordered the replacements yet. I am going to try to fix them with a threaded rod insert first. Hopefully that goes well...
__________________
Tim, Tara and Canyon - 'TnT' (& C now...)
2015 Thor Outlaw 37LS w/FJ Cruiser Toad
Columbia 400, 1967 Corvette, KTM 350 EXC-f, TTR 125 LE, XR50 for toys
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09-25-2014, 11:49 AM
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#882
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Sedona, AZ
Posts: 713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkeyClaw
Another thing I learned on this trip - DO NOT USE LOCTITE ON PLASTIC! My wife noticed one of the handles rattled loose on the shower. I decided to nip this issue in the bud by applying loctite blue on the threads. Next time I tried to use them, they literally fell off just by touching them. In all my wisdom, I did the handles on the sink and the shower, so now there are no handled on any of them We did some research and they are made by Dura Faucet (they appear to be the metal kind ( Classical Lever Handles - Metal | Dura Faucet) as the plastic have a different connection mechanism). We haven't ordered the replacements yet. I am going to try to fix them with a threaded rod insert first. Hopefully that goes well...
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Quick update - the threaded rod worked like a charm. It took all of 15 minutes to cut it to size and thread them into the correct position for all 4 handles. Stronger than original and shouldn't unscrew while driving. On to the next thing... Hopefully I don't break it before fixing it (whatever 'it' is).
__________________
Tim, Tara and Canyon - 'TnT' (& C now...)
2015 Thor Outlaw 37LS w/FJ Cruiser Toad
Columbia 400, 1967 Corvette, KTM 350 EXC-f, TTR 125 LE, XR50 for toys
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