OUTLAW Mods and Easy Fixes

[Scarab0088]

Originally Posted by thecap10

A huge thanks to everyone involved in this incredible thread. A ton of great knowledge and ideas flowing.

2015 Outlaw 37MD, and I'm almost positive it's developed the FQP. Dashboard won't stay anchored to the wall, and when leveling the dash and interior firewall actually move lower while the wall moves up. Not to mention the shaking over bumpy roads.

I was looking at the fixes others have accomplished, and had a though specific to the Gen II. It looks like the Gen I fix allowed for the use of nuts/bolts, but the luan (plastic) covering and foam would be blocking the access for us Gen IIers. I was wondering if I might be able to cut into the plastic covering and through the foam, giving me access to the beam, thus allowing me to use a nuts/bolts remedy. I don't think I'd need to cut much into it, just enough to give me access behind it. Then spray foam / attach new plastic / some waterproof covering to after the nuts/bolts were applied.

Or just stick to the longer more beefier screws?

Thoughts?

Did you see the post linked here?...FQP fix a GenII - drivers side and preventive on passenger side...with photos
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/outl...ml#post4205544
And a comparison GenI to II:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/outl...ml#post2897404

What none of the photos show on any projects is the aluminium frame inside the laminated wall structure. Your main object is to tie that wall/frame assembly to the chassis frame wings - WITHOUT crushing it.

The luan is on the interior of the wall structure (against the chassis wings) so should not be an issue.
You should be able to remove the painted/plactic molding cap to get under it to the hardware.
Then the fix is very similar to GenI but the exterior molding of course, is different.
Through the base of the molding or under it, doesn't really matter.

Please share photos
Best luck

[thecap10]

Originally Posted by Scarab0088

Did you see the post linked here?...FQP fix a GenII - drivers side and preventive on passenger side...with photos
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/outl...ml#post4205544
And a comparison GenI to II:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/outl...ml#post2897404

What none of the photos show on any projects is the aluminium frame inside the laminated wall structure. Your main object is to tie that wall/frame assembly to the chassis frame wings - WITHOUT crushing it.

The luan is on the interior of the wall structure (against the chassis wings) so should not be an issue.
You should be able to remove the painted/plactic molding cap to get under it to the hardware.
Then the fix is very similar to GenI but the exterior molding of course, is different.
Through the base of the molding or under it, doesn't really matter.

Please share photos
Best luck

Ah, yes. I was planning my fix based off what I’d seen in the previous FQP posts. All give an excellent mental game plan, although not surprisingly my Outlaw seems to have a slightly different setup underneath.



(Mod Edit). Driver's side just behind molding.

So underneath I have plastic, which I believe is also on top of a foam block blocking access to the floor frame steel. I’m trying to come up with a game plan for using washers/nylock bolts, but my floor bottom doesn’t look like anyone else’s pictures.

I haven’t even started to take off the molding to access the screws, but I’ll upload more when I get started.

[Scarab0088]

Thecap10,

The white stuff should only be filling a void on your Outlaw's floor:

Yours


Ours


The new fasteners (screws or nuts/bolts, what ever you pick) will go through and join both pieces of the block shaped bits shown here.
The outer piece is the wall structure (bottom of the wall is above the fender flare and has the fender flare screwed to it).
The inner piece is frame attached to the chassis made of square tube, "C" channel, or "U" channel (has a bolt in it holding the floor down).

After you are done, highly recommend a heavy bead of caulking to seal what looks like the exposed edges of the wall structure visible in the middle.

Best luck

[Chr0medom3]

I have a 2013 Thor Outlaw 3611 and need to replace the passengers side mirror camera etc. I have the replacement but is there a way without taking out the dash, to run the wires to installl the new mirror?

[MonkeyClaw]

I need to replace the wiper blades on my 2015 37LS. I'd prefer to use refills for the current (stock) blades instead of getting new blades - mostly because it seems wasteful and I'm cheap.


Does anybody have a link or brand/model info to find refills?


Thanks!

[Scarab0088]

Originally Posted by Chr0medom3

I have a 2013 Thor Outlaw 3611 and need to replace the passengers side mirror camera etc (SIC)

Originally Posted by MonkeyClaw

I need to replace the wiper blades on my 2015 37LS. (SIC)
Thanks!

While there's LOTS of compatibility - Just for the record - The Outlaws mirrors with the cameras and the wipers for the single piece windshield are different...so I got nuthin', sorry

[Robsauto]

A friend gave me a portable air conditioner that she said stopped cooling. All I could find wrong was it was clogged with cat hair. Once I cleaned it out, it worked fine so I started thinking that maybe this would work in the garage of our 2018 3611 outlaw.

I vented the hot air hose out the upper side vent and cut open the floor in the storage area (below the washer/dryer hookups), installed a 6" hvac connector for the cold air intake to the condenser fan.

After installing, it took the temp from 80 to 72 in about 30minutes. This was a single hose unit which are very inefficient so I converted it into a dual hose before installing it.

If you are going to purchase a portable air conditioner, make sure it has dual hoses.

[Scarab0088]

Great Post...Thanks - logged on page 1.

We too have used a "portable" aircon in the garage. See:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/i-lo...ml#post1654919

This is a GenI Outlaw thing...so most everyone with Outlaw models having letters in the floor plan name can bypass this thread
But...if the built-in box aircon is not keeping-up with garage heat, a portable can be used in a GenII Outlaw as well

Ours is a single hose unit. We vented it out the passenger side wall trucker vent in the garage.

We had great results.

The condenser in-take for ours is from the still air in the back of the unit. This air flow draw puts a suction on the room, pulling a bit of cooled air thru the interior garage door from the salon...which is sorely lacking otherwise. When the interior garage door is closed, we open the main aircon ducts in the garage ceiling for the same kind of flow from the salon. This cooler air is dryer too and I believe that improves the efficiency of the condenser.

A dual hose unit is designed to cool the condenser using external air...which is generally hotter and can be humid. This is generally less efficient and with humidity, will have a much higher amount of condensate draining to deal with.

Either will work, but we picked the single hose unit for these reasons.

Safe Outlaw Travels

[Robsauto]

Originally Posted by Scarab0088

Great Post...Thanks - logged on page 1.

We too have used a "portable" aircon in the garage. See:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/i-lo...ml#post1654919

This is a GenI Outlaw thing...so most everyone with Outlaw models having letters in the floor plan name can bypass this thread
But...if the built-in box aircon is not keeping-up with garage heat, a portable can be used in a GenII Outlaw as well

Ours is a single hose unit. We vented it out the passenger side wall trucker vent in the garage.

We had great results.

The condenser in-take for ours is from the still air in the back of the unit. This air flow draw puts a suction on the room, pulling a bit of cooled air thru the interior garage door from the salon...which is sorely lacking otherwise. When the interior garage door is closed, we open the main aircon ducts in the garage ceiling for the same kind of flow from the salon. This cooler air is dryer too and I believe that improves the efficiency of the condenser.

A dual hose unit is designed to cool the condenser using external air...which is generally hotter and can be humid. This is generally less efficient and with humidity, will have a much higher amount of condensate draining to deal with.

Either will work, but we picked the single hose unit for these reasons.

Safe Outlaw Travels

I tried it with the single hose first but because the door from garage to the coach will be closed for privacy (A friend will be using the garage), It didn't cool well because it was drawing in hot outside air so I converted it to recirculate through the condenser only. I totally get what you mean about the cool interior air flowing across the condenser. I wanted it to work like a typical window type a/c.

If the door was to be kept open then yes it would be pulling cold air from the main part of the coach but, remember, you will still have a low pressure situation which will be drawing hot outside air into the coach anywhere it can get in.

Another reason I went with a recirculate type is fear of pulling generator exhaust fumes into the coach when not on shore power.....

[Scarab0088]

If anyone has a simple source or list for Outlaw Chassis' Recalls (incl: Ford Workhorse and FL) please post it.
I will link t on page #1.

[JeffAZ]

So I am in the process of replacing all 5 of my hail and sun damaged front marker lights. It was a challenge just to be able to bring the wires out so they can be cut and reconnected to the new LED lights (on order). The OEM wires were placed into the 1" hole with a large wad of caulk. The caulk had to be cut away piece by piece until it was small enough to be delivered outside the hole with the old bulb socket. So there are cracks in the gelcoat around some of the screw holes, and some of the screw holes are stripped. How would I repair this before putting the new lights in? This repair will be behind the new lights, so it won't have to be pretty.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

[JeffAZ]

The good news is there is a decent amount of fiberglass foam insulation in the cavity behind the front cap, you can see it in the last photo above. Here are all the tools that I found to be useful for this task. The first one took a lot longer than the last one I only lost one wired socket behind the hole, but managed to retrieve it after getting a couple more tools. I also set up a scaffold, which made it a lot easier.

I also discovered that these OEM lights are slightly different from the rear marker lights that I replaced a few months ago. The front screw holes are 3 1/3" wide, while the rear were only 3". That's why I had to re-order new ones.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

[Mike Bachman]

I don’t know how to fix the gelcoat, but for stripped screws I use Devcon 5 Minute Epoxy. I just take all the screws put. Squirt the epoxy in (it mixes in the tube), put the screws back in and tighten them down and stand back. I’ve never had a screw come loose again that I’ve done this to. Of course in your case, you would have to do it as you put everything back together. They are serious about it being 5 min. The epoxy does come with a second mixing tube.

[JeffAZ]

Thanks Mike, I 'll look into that material for the screw holes.
But I still don't have a plan for the cracks in the gelcoat, need something to cover the cracks for water-proofing and preventing them from worsening.