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Old 07-13-2017, 09:08 PM   #15
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So after the coach being at the factory for repairs I was called just today telling me the Whirlpool tech looked at the fridge today.
He said something rubbed a hole in the compressor causing it to leak. The oil then leaked on some electrical parts. Both need to be replaced. Its going to take another 8 days to get the parts.
I told Thor I want a new fridge. Thor said they cant replace it because its warratied by Whirlpool and they have the deceision to fix it or replace it.
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Old 07-16-2017, 10:53 PM   #16
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Thanks for the followup and reply. I was wondering about this the other day.
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Old 07-17-2017, 01:12 AM   #17
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Refrigerator

It sounds like you're running on 110v power instead of gas. So, this is just as a point of education. I am assuming many of you know this already, but as a newbie myself, I was having trouble getting the fridge to work on gas.

It turns out, there is a teeny tiny little valve behind the exterior fridge panel to turn the gas on and off.

The problem I'm having with my fridge is I can't get it to run on power. It works great on gas.
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:08 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WolfmanFAFA View Post
It sounds like you're running on 110v power instead of gas. So, this is just as a point of education. I am assuming many of you know this already, but as a newbie myself, I was having trouble getting the fridge to work on gas.

It turns out, there is a teeny tiny little valve behind the exterior fridge panel to turn the gas on and off.

The problem I'm having with my fridge is I can't get it to run on power. It works great on gas.
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Old 07-17-2017, 11:40 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WolfmanFAFA View Post
It sounds like you're running on 110v power instead of gas. So, this is just as a point of education. I am assuming many of you know this already, but as a newbie myself, I was having trouble getting the fridge to work on gas.

It turns out, there is a teeny tiny little valve behind the exterior fridge panel to turn the gas on and off.

The problem I'm having with my fridge is I can't get it to run on power. It works great on gas.
Yes there is a service gas shut off back there as you found.
Back in that same area there was a 115V outlet. Surely you checked that the refrig. was plugged into it, and the outlet is powered? (try a test lamp or meter) The main controls are 12V so they may work but the heating element (350W) is about a 1/3 of the way up that tower that the burner is under. Ideally you'll want to check that there is power to that element. The leads go back the the circuit board. The element is buried down in a well in that concentration tube with two leads hanging out through the insulation. **If there's power 115V you may need to OHM check the element.
**Do not attempt these steps if you're not comfortable troubleshooting electric circuits. Unplug all devices before attempting repairs. Get experienced help if you are unsure of these service operations.
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Old 07-18-2017, 08:51 AM   #20
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This is a residential style fridge. Just like you have in your home. There is no gas valve. It runs only on 110 volt ac power. The only gas that is in it is the freon.
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Old 07-18-2017, 09:05 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Tacouser View Post
This is a residential style fridge. Just like you have in your home. There is no gas valve. It runs only on 110 volt ac power. The only gas that is in it is the freon.
welcome to the hijacked post world...
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Old 07-18-2017, 10:10 AM   #22
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This is a residential style fridge. Just like you have in your home. There is no gas valve. It runs only on 110 volt ac power. The only gas that is in it is the freon.
I know the feeling on our first trip our Fridge quick working over night and we lost all of our food. Took it back to dealer so they could take care of it and some other issues. After getting fixed it has worked great.

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Old 07-24-2017, 01:12 PM   #23
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My coach is finished. After being in the shop since July 4th they called me Friday saying to come pick it up. They said the fixed all 33 items that had issues, including fixing the fridge. I spoke to there rep Friday and had him go over each and every item.
The big repairs were the replaced the compressor in the fridge,installed a new A/C unit on the roof,,, the cooling fins were bent and installed new motors for the canopy.
I pick it up tomorrow. Hopefully its all good.
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Old 07-24-2017, 10:59 PM   #24
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I'm glad that you have it back and hopefully all is well. Please update after you have cycled through everything and let us know how it went.

Can you post what the other items on the list were so those of us with similar coaches can check on or watch for?
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Old 07-26-2017, 08:39 AM   #25
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Tacouser,

what was your issue on the awning motors? I have a new 37YT and this is my first rv with the electric awnings and mine seem to move very slowly but that may be normal. Also, on my old RV I had the manual awning and used tie down straps with the springs that secured to the ground to protect that awning in wind/rain. Used to sit outside under the awning in the rain storms and never had a issue. On the new electric awning (large on this 38') the awning seems really fragile and with a light wind it starts flapping and shaking. Not sure if there is a way to put more tension on the arms or not. I still have my tie downs and did use them one trip and it helped a little but when the wind kicked up and rain started I chickened out and rolled in the awning. Kinda wish I had the old manual style back vs. electric.

Anyone have any tricks to the new electric awnings for securing better. I read the manual and understand that they do warn to not leave it out during storms or wind but I was hoping it was a little stronger to handle breezes.
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Old 07-26-2017, 02:26 PM   #26
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Picked up the 31W yesterday. I went through every item with the tech who did most of the work, very nice person. All items were addressed and repaired or replaced. They did good work. To bad the assemble line work is so poor. But it gives this guy a steady job.
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Old 07-26-2017, 02:28 PM   #27
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The trouble I had with the awning was sometimes it would not retract on its own. I had to have two people pushing the support bars in while a third person held in the close button. Thor had to replace the motor in the awning. Pretty bad for something only a few months old.
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Old 07-26-2017, 02:30 PM   #28
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For those who asked, here is the complete list of things Thor had to repair.
1. Water leak when shower is used. Water comes out around floor area just in front of fridge. I applied new caulk around inside of shower. No leaks this trip 6/23/17. There was several spots where there were gaps in the caulk. I recaulked in some areas just to be able to use the shower. Please check the whole shower.
2. ceiling fan not working, intermittent, in kitchen.. one trip it worked all day, next trip it would not come on at all.
3. Decals. Several spots damaged new decals on order. I will tag where I found bad decals.
4. Bathroom door. Out of square. Door will not stay closed when driving. The door has pressure on the hinge when you close it. This causes the wall to buckle.
5. Door casing top right of bathroom door. Corners are separated.
6. Marks on ceiling. Dirt or grease. Up front near front bunk and bedroom near dresser.
7. Electric wires hanging loose under drivers side rear tail light. Wire strap is not screwed into anything
8. Outside large storage door out of square. Gaps around door are not even. After heavy rain this week, 6/23/17, compartment was full of water.
9. Loud squeak when driving, near fridge or microwave. Not so bad this last trip. 6/23/17
10. Heat duct in bathroom and by fridge has almost no air flow
11. Flooring buckled just inside to the right of first step. Right by the sofa.
12. Bathroom 110vac outlet very hard to plug anything in.
13. Glue on material by map light, passenger side visor and on passenger side grab bar
14. Plastic trim molding around front dinette seat loose
15. Fake plastic trim on center console by cup holder loose
16. Rear bedroom window, not closing. On the window portion that opens, when closed the top edge of the glass is not flush with the fixed portion of glass.
17. Rear bumper loose. The bumper can be moved up and down by hand
18. Awning retracting very slow. Takes about two minutes to fully retract. This trip had to assist awning to close by pushing in on support arms. 6/23/17 ******
19. Rear window shade has a hole in it. From factory.
20. There is a tear in the ceiling above the front bunk, it has had a very poor repair job. Like this from factory.
21. There is a tear in the ceiling in rear bedroom. It has had a very poor repair job. Like this from factory.'
22. Refrigerator not getting cold. Light is on, fan runs but never got cold. New problem this trip 6/23/17 ********
23. Wood corner casing on slide out, above drivers seat very loose
24. Window trim around upper bunk window very loose, screws pulling out.
25. Handle for power vent above stove has no screw in it, keeps falling off.
26. Drawer under fridge hard to open/close
27. Caulking outside on the over hang of the front bunk is missing in spots. Front and sides. Can see it when sitting in drivers seat.
28. Staples in several spots are not fully seated into wood. Cut my finger on one of them.
29. Front kick panel of couch is loose.
30. Fins on AC roof unit are bent. Like this from factory.
31. Greasy marks on wall. Just to the right of the refrigerator, as your looking at the door.
32. Hole in floor by kitchen, you can see it with slide open
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