Short in outside shower compartment in 2014 29.2

[JimtownMike]

First off I want to thank Thor customer service for their assistance in providing the drawings I needed and helping out trouble shooting the problem.

The problem: the cargo lights in the rear basement compartment ceased working. I found all cargo lights in all the outside compartments failed. When Thor helped me locate the Front Fuse Box, Fuse 31 had blown.
I started unmounted every light on the circuit and inspected the wiring and connections. The light in the shower had shorted to the metal panel which it is mounted too. The connection between the fixture was not accomplished properly, too much insulation had been stripped back and remained exposed in addition to there was no insulating grommet installed in the metal panel. EVEN IF THE CONNECTIONS ARE ACCOMPLISHED PROPERLY A SERIOUS FIRE RISK EXISTS DUE TO CHAFFING IF THERE IS NO GROMMET WHERE THE COACH WIRES LEAD IN.

It is easy to check. Remove the lens and the four mounting screws. Look behind the fixture. If you see a bare metal hole, you need to get a grommet. How you get it installed is up to you but should be installed by someone qualified. This problem could exist on more than just the 29.2???? Additionally during the troubleshooting process I found at least one but most fixtures had two bad connections. Two if the lights they used wire nuts and the rest were crimp connectors. The wire nut connections were just as bad as the crimped ones.

NOTE: EVENTUALLY this problem will manifest itself either in the form of a fire and if you are very lucky just a blown fuse. It is a big risk for a twelve cent part.

[BFlinn181]

Thanks for the head's up, but I doubt if a 12 v light circuit would be a serious fire threat. You mentioned it's a fused circuit and your fuse had blown. Unless replaced with a larger fuse that might allow a short to continue, it probably won't generate enough heat to ignite anything. I'm not sure I understand what you mean by, "accomplished properly." Did you mean 'installed'?

Rather than removing and inserting a rubber grommet, you could just put a dab of silicon caulk on the wire were it goes through the hole in the metal fixture. It will harden and immobilize the wire so it doesn't rub the insulation off. Likewise, the wires that were stripped too far back to expose bare wire at a crimped on connection can be painted with liquid electrical tape and it will seal it up.

[JimtownMike]

It is my opinion that anytime a fuse on any circuit blows the problem must be corrected before replacing the fuse. Just replacing the fuse can bring other variables into play like damaging the fuse block that certainly can allow sufficient current to cause a fire. Electrical fires are quite common in vehicles that only have 12 volt circuits. Your suggestion would be ok for a temporary solution however there is no excuse for fixing it right. Hopefully you feel your life is worth more than a twelve cent grommet and thirty minutes of your time. Less than two months ago my nephew's hummers burnt to the ground that could have been avoided if GM had recalled those vehicles that were built without something like a grommet to prevent chafing due to normal flexing of the body. His fire started several hours after it had been in use.

[Forest Grump]

It's a 16 or 18 gauge wire, not many amps there, even a lot less with the fuse blown. You found the short, which did not and probably wouldn't ever cause a problem other than blow another fuse. Fuse blocks are just that, fuse protection close to the battery. There is no danger to the fuse block from this wire or this short.

Either unplug the wire from the lamp, fix it - liquid rubber is great or tape it - and insert a grommet over it or use silicone, done deal. Grommets get old, they oxidize. and crack. Silicone works very well.

I don't catch the connection with the burning hummer and you 16 gauge wire. Fill us I please.