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Persistent · 11-20-2019, 07:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss

On our KT we have always wondered exactly where the break point was for the two legs of 50 amps each. For example, wondered where you could plug in two space heaters at the same time and have them on different legs. Or what you could run at the same time as the microwave was on, or a coffer percolator was perking. Does anyone have a wiring diagram that shows this break point? Also, I believe that the microwave and the fireplace/heater are on their own "circuits", but they still must be on one or the other 50 amp legs. How much do you feel comfortable running on that same leg while a large power user is running? Thanks.

Please don't take offence. This question would probably get better answers if it were posted in one of the utility forums. Electrical experts sometimes lurk there. Look at the list on the home page.

I know of two ways you can find the answers. You can get an AC power monitor that will show loading on each leg of your 50 amp service. I would use Google Search to start looking (expensive).

You can also use a cheap hardware store voltmeter. Test the voltage between two outlets. Insert one probe into hot socket hole (small blade hole). Insert other probe into other socket hot socket hole. If voltage is 240 volts or so, they are on different legs. If near zero, they are on the same leg. You can plug an extension cord into one outlet to get close enough for meter probes to reach.

You must have your shore power cord connected to a 50 amp 240 volt outlet for this to work. It probably won't work on generator or if using a reducing adapter, alternator, or solar.

Webman9113 · 11-20-2019, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss

And when you tripped the breaker, was it the breaker on the pedestal?

Hmmm, okay, I have to clarify something. Sorry - this was quite a while back and I don’t remember clearly, lol! Anyway, I think when the breaker tripped, we were on generator power, and the breaker was on the generator. I don’t think it was one of the breakers in the panel at the foot of the bed.

sbleiweiss · 11-22-2019, 06:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Webman9113

Hmmm, okay, I have to clarify something. Sorry - this was quite a while back and I don’t remember clearly, lol! Anyway, I think when the breaker tripped, we were on generator power, and the breaker was on the generator. I don’t think it was one of the breakers in the panel at the foot of the bed.

We did that once too. Operating on about 60 amps instead of 100. But I am interested in the limits when on full shore power.

bsheet2 · 02-01-2020, 12:46 AM

I have 1 2017 Challenger 37YT. Does anyone know where the Converter is located?? I know where the inverter is. Looking for the Converter that supplies 12 volt power and charges the house batteries.

Glenn2 · 02-01-2020, 08:19 AM

The converter is under the bedroom bed. You lift the mattress and then remove the floor of the storage area. Turn off your main AC breaker or disconnect AC from the RV for safety.

bsheet2 · 02-02-2020, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Glenn2

The converter is under the bedroom bed. You lift the mattress and then remove the floor of the storage area. Turn off your main AC breaker or disconnect AC from the RV for safety.

Thanks for the info.

Turns out I had bad house batteries. Voltage output from the Converter/charger to the batteries is 13.8 volts (at the battery terminals).

sbleiweiss · 02-29-2020, 07:37 AM

On our 2014.5 Challenger KT the battery management unit is in the engine compartment, but on the driver's side behind the front cap. You can see it, but it is very hard to get at it to do anything. I have a bad solenoid in mine but the RV tech who diagnosed it couldn't figure out how to get to it to change without removing the whole hood door and its frame. Has anyone figured out a better way to get to this thing? It sure could have been mounted in a more convenient place.

Bakeryman · 03-19-2020, 03:30 PM

Reaching out to owners of the 37YT. We just left Moab Utah 3/19/20 as they RV resort could not extend stay due to virus and we could not go all the way home to denver due to blizzard. Also felt the Utah Earth quake. Been a trip.

Question, just landed at a rv park in Palisade Co to way out the snow and my large bathroom / bedroom slide won't extend. I can hit retract and the motor goes on and snugs it up but I can't get it to go out.

I extended the living room slide and kitchen as normal. We are plugged into 50amp so plenty of power.

I checked the manual and found the control box and followed reset and the trouble codes and it's not giving a code.

I then switched the wires on the back of the Hall control panel thinking the switch might be bad and that did not fix. It does appear maybe the red wire is at fault but not sure.

I also took RV off the leveling jacks and tried thinking maybe it would free up the slide (sometimes that works when not real level site) no dice.

NOTE to the person that a year ago posted they got rid of their 37YT POS and went to Tiffen....any regrets a year later. I'm getting tired of the fixes and I had a 2003 Challenger I bought new before this one and no problems with it. I wonder about slides that are large and too heavy, residential fridge in the slide along with kitchen table, micro, oven and all the plumbing...

sorry for the long message, frustrated at being kicked to the curb in Moab then snow storm and now slide.... good thing we have beverages.

sbleiweiss · 03-20-2020, 08:16 AM

[QUOTE= my large bathroom / bedroom slide won't extend. I can hit retract and the motor goes on and snugs it up but I can't get it to go out.
[/QUOTE]

Call Thor tech support. They can often talk you through the problem. 24/7.

SteveW123 · 03-21-2020, 10:43 AM

Please let’s us know what the problem is when you get it solved.
Thanks!!

Bakeryman · 03-22-2020, 03:51 AM

Will let you know what it is when we figure it out.

I reached out to a contact at Lippert who makes the system and he sent me a diagnosis flow chart which I plan to continue playing with.

He was a little concerned it was not throwing the LED codes at the controller.

Yesterday when I first went out to check a couple things it appeared to attempt to go out a couple inches but stopped. Came back in as normal but when I tried to extend again I got nothing.

I was thinking it was the switch then I remember I have the rapid camp remote control and that would not work either. It did work as normal on the other two slides.

May need to find expert to have a look, I could probably figure our replacing motors based on some YouTube videos showing the 37yt in the video but not sure motors are the problem. Almost seems bound up but I would think I would get some extend movement. And not likely both motors go at same time.

opcop · 03-29-2020, 02:00 AM

Bakeryman,
I have a 2012 Challenger 37DT and I had a similar problem with my large drivers side slide. I tried everything I could and watched numerous YouTube videos, but couldn’t fix it. I decided to take one of my other Lippert motor synch controller boxes from one of my other slides that were working and hooked it up to my bad slide. Bingo, slide works perfect. I ordered a new synch controller and I’m all good again. I was actually on a trip when it occurred, so I made sure the slide was all the way in and then hooked up the bad box so it keeps the slide motors locked while driving. Hope this helps.

Bakeryman · 03-29-2020, 06:32 AM

Steve

Thanks for the suggestion. I thought about that but assumed it was the motor. The other two work fine so I’ll try that today.

It’s such a big slide and our model has the large double sink bathroom and we added the washer and dry which is right on the end of slide that motor is not working

That controller had one of the wires where the blade connector was not great so I have larger connectors to install as well. They used 14-16 gauge and wire is too big for those so I bough 10-12 g and will redo those connectors

Where did you order your controller?

opcop · 03-29-2020, 02:53 PM

Bakeryman,
The first pic is my bad controller Lippert #13398-C2. Second pic I’m showing the burned out chip if you zoom in. Third pic is the replacement #13398-D0, which I bought on EBay for around $155 plus tax and shipping. I forgot who the seller was sorry. I called Lippert before buying it because it had a D0 at the end instead of C2. The tech told me it would work, the D0 is the upgrade to the C2 as long as the first model numbers are the same. He was right and it works perfect. Good luck 👍🏻.