Community Forums

DGShaffer · 10-09-2014, 04:21 PM

I use the Dual Dynamics Crossfire system. I had it on my Outlaw so I added one to the Challenger as well. I don't run a tire monitoring system after I had a bad experience with TST. After that I found the Crossfire and believe in it. Although all it's really made for is to equalize the pressure between the duals as the temperature changes and pressures change along with it. There is a visual pressure indicater on them which requires you to get out and look at it so I got into the habit of keeping an eye on my pressures at stops. It also allows you to add air to both tires at the same time through a single stem. I've had it on since new which is over 11,000 miles so far and I've only added air once and it was super easy.

tedgard01 · 10-09-2014, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss

I don't have the braided stems, or any type of extended stems. that is why it was so hard to get to and add air. I asked about extended stems at my dealer. they said they had seen so many problems with them that they wouldn't install them. What does this forum say about that? Are many of you using extended stems on inner duellys?

Okay, so you don't have that as an issue then. Just a thought.

BTW, I was not recommending extenders, but a stem that is longer and extend through the hole in the outside wheal. In othewords, there is not a stem, and then an extension hooked onto the stem, it is simply a stem that is longer in itself. An extension allows more points of failure, a longer stem does not. I have a longer stem that extends through the hole on the outer wheal, which allows easy installation and removal of my sensors.

Ted

DGShaffer · 10-10-2014, 05:15 AM

Teds solution for this issue is always the best way to go if you want to be able to add a sensor or make it easier to add air. It's an expensive venture seeing as how the tires have to be dismounted off of the rims to add the longer stems.

Installing the Crossfire was a PITA getting to the inner valve stem but well worth the effort. The connection uses a mechanical stainless steel fitting that doesn't come loos or leak.

sbleiweiss · 10-10-2014, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01

Okay, so you don't have that as an issue then. Just a thought.

BTW, I was not recommending extenders, but a stem that is longer and extend through the hole in the outside wheal. In othewords, there is not a stem, and then an extension hooked onto the stem, it is simply a stem that is longer in itself. An extension allows more points of failure, a longer stem does not. I have a longer stem that extends through the hole on the outer wheal, which allows easy installation and removal of my sensors.

Ted

Ted, where did you get that longer stem? Can you put it on yourself? If not, who puts it on for you. I like the idea.

DGShaffer · 10-10-2014, 08:07 AM

You can install them if you can get that massive 22.5 wheel apart and back together

Stems are installed from the inside of the rim

rvbunz · 10-12-2014, 06:41 AM

Ted, I had the stainless steel long valve stems from Dulley installed. All one piece warranted for life and not to leak. Like $120.00 for a complete set.

tedgard01 · 10-12-2014, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss

Ted, where did you get that longer stem? Can you put it on yourself? If not, who puts it on for you. I like the idea.

You can get them online or at your local shop.

As Don said, I would not try to install them yourself. I would have a good shop that has experience with truck tires install them. Also as Don said, expect to pay more than just extensions, along with some installation cost, but in my opinion well worth it.

Ted

tedgard01 · 10-12-2014, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvbunz

Ted, I had the stainless steel long valve stems from Dulley installed. All one piece warranted for life and not to leak. Like $120.00 for a complete set.

Bob, where did you get them and did the $120.00 include installation cost or was that an additional cost?

Ted

JohnG2013KT · 10-13-2014, 06:18 PM

Hey Guys .... This evening I was doing some maintenance .. walking around the driver's side of the RV .. I noticed that the door for the battery / hydraulics was not lined up with the door next door .. it was sticking out significantly ... When I pushed on the panel, it was loose!!!! ... the door seems ok, but the covering panel is very loose? ... I will be calling Thor tomorrow and will report back ..

tedgard01 · 10-14-2014, 05:48 AM

Thanks, and keep us informed....

Ted

ctpres · 10-14-2014, 06:00 AM

New 2015 37KT inventory
List of items that could be missing on new Challenger 37KT at delivery

Four chairs (two are folding)
Air mattress and pump for overhead drop down bunk
One ladder for overhead drop down bunk
Air mattress and pump for couch pull out bed
Whole house water filter and wrench
Decorative wheel nut wrench and handle
Two slide locking bars
Frig travel lock
Two frig shelves
Frig ice maker bin
MWC turntable tray
MWC baking rack
Three MWC cooking bowls
Paint touch-up kit with four colors
Eight remotes: 4 TV, 1 DVD, 1 dash radio, 1 fireplace and 1 Rapid Camp
Rapid Camp charger
Front table and leg
Six pillows: 2 couch, 2 bed and 2 pillow shams
Two sets of 7 keys: 1 ignition, 2 door keys, 1 exterior TV, 1 hood, 1 overhead bunk and 1 basement
One fire extinguisher
One 50 amp power cord

ctpres · 10-15-2014, 07:36 AM

Made over 100 mod's and upgrades to our Damon. It's one of my fun things in life and just getting started on our new Challenger.
#1 left/rear closet door hit the valance and would not open fully. Valance secured to wall with two L brackets and one screw each, just look up inside and between wall and roller shade. Three hands needed. Removed screws, moved valance about 1/4 inch and reinstalled screws. Now door opens all the way for easier access to closet.
#2 Sliding doors rattled during travel and finish was being rubbed off or being scratched at the bottom door guides. Removed screw caps and two VERY long screws, installed felt pads on both sides. No more rattles and finish protected.
#3 Bathroom door hitting latch plate and hard to close. Marked edges of latch plate, removed it and cut out 1/8" thick plastic trim behind plate. There was a bit of play with door closed so I removed latch plate and bent the inside prong a bit. Now door closes with ease and does not move or rattle underway.
#4 Was looking for a good place to store TV remotes and finally settled on using Command strips with Velcro like backing. Now remotes are stored on the inside of cabinet doors next to each TV.
#5 Screen door hard to close and not enough adjustment range in latch plate to solve problem. Finally figured out that door was somewhat curved so top and bottom hit first and extra effort required to pull center in far enough to engage latch. Be careful - do this in gradual steps - don't try to adjust door the first time. Hold door firmly in center with one hand and push out at top and then bottom with the other hand. Test and repeat with a bit more pushing effort until door nearly straight. There needs to be a small amount of warp in door. If you bend it to much there will be bug holes.
#6 Bottom of pleated shades on cockpit side windows hitting dash. Hard to close and looked awful with bent pleats. Remove screw caps, screws on wall between seatbelt and window and the retaining strap. Remove rear and middle track brackets so rear end of track drops below valance. Slide shade rollers off the end. Put shade on big table and pencil mark bottom of shade at cut line - about 1 1/2 inch in my case. Cut off with a good pair of scissors and reverse above steps to reinstall with one exception. Top of shade was hitting rear end of valance making the last couple inches of closing difficult. Rather than installing the three side screws in the same hole - I let shade hang in normal/relaxed position and drilled new holes. I tested use with and without the wand and decided the wand just got in the way and things worked better without it. Now they close with ease and look much better closed.

JohnG2013KT · 10-15-2014, 09:07 AM

Talked with Thor this morning. I've got to say that I am becoming disillusioned with Thor more and more .. The 'tech' told me to take the coach to an 'authorized' Thor dealer and have it repaired. OK .. So I ask him since this was obviously a factory defect ( I looked closer at the door yesterday and it's obvious that the double sided tape or glue was incorrectly applied as it was rolled up) if this would be covered under warranty and he said no .. As the coach was over a year old .. grrrrrr ..
Will just fix it myself .. When I ask what the factory used, he was clueless .. but he did offer up that Gorilla glue would work .. or .. get this .. I could order a new door from Thor ... LOL

ctpres · 10-15-2014, 12:50 PM

#6 Our 2010 Damon Daybreak and our 2015 Thor Challenger came from factory with only one smoke detector. I was in alarm business for over thirty years and am not aware of any code that would allow that. Without the details - there must be a smoke detector in EVERY sleeping area and one outside sleeping area. In the 37KT floor plan that means THREE detectors. I added two before we even spent the first night in our new RV. One in front and rear sleeping areas. Detectors exactly like the one in our 2015 are available from Lowes, $9.47 for a package of two. Lowe's item number 304184 or First Alert number FG200B2. Do your family a favor and be sure you have enough detectors for your floor plan. If you are not sure how many you need - PM me with floor plan and length of RV. Basically if there is a door or even curtain between existing detector and a bed - there needs to be a detector added.