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Old 02-14-2011, 02:14 AM   #1
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Thor Pinnacle Information

Hi, just joined IRV2 today and was excited to see a thread dedicated to Thor Industries. I purchased a 1996 Pinnacle 300 last month, it was kind of a mechanics special. The previous owner did not take care of it very well so I'm trying to play catch-up with it. Currently I was wondering if there is any such thing as a wiring diagram produced for the home portion of the motorhome? I have purchased the P-32 Chassis manuals which I'm sure will provide wiring diagrams for that but would sure like to get a hold of some Thor Industries manuals. If anybody has any insight on this it would be greatly appreciated. Thx
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Old 02-25-2011, 10:56 PM   #2
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Your coach was built by Thor Industries West in CA and in 1999 sold their plant to a group named Mountain High CoachWorks who continued building Pinnacle and Residency coaches until mid 2001 then closed down their plant for good.

You might send an e-mail to Thor back east and perhaps they can offer some suggestions, but I seriously doubt it.

Here's their e-mail address: sales@tmcrv.com

Wish you the best of luck
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Old 03-03-2011, 01:19 PM   #3
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AzCactusRV, I bought my 1994 Pinnacle 305 a couple of months ago. I've been looking for the same information, it appears to be nonexistent.

I do have an owners manual, but it is mainly for installed equipment controls, and vehicle controls.

My Pinnacle was on consignment by the original owners family, and had sat for many years. I've coated the roof, replaced the stove, igniter board for water heater, fuel pump on gen, and added some more 12v circuits.

My opinion so far is that motorhome mfg are more interested in getting the RV out the door than maintainability.

Larry
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Old 03-09-2011, 06:29 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LGriffin
AzCactusRV, I bought my 1994 Pinnacle 305 a couple of months ago. I've been looking for the same information, it appears to be nonexistent.

I do have an owners manual, but it is mainly for installed equipment controls, and vehicle controls.

My Pinnacle was on consignment by the original owners family, and had sat for many years. I've coated the roof, replaced the stove, igniter board for water heater, fuel pump on gen, and added some more 12v circuits.

My opinion so far is that motorhome mfg are more interested in getting the RV out the door than maintainability.

Larry
Hi Larry, looks like we picked up our MH's about the same time. The lack of tech data does put a damper on trying to fix stuff. Mine too had been sitting for a while and it was neglected by the previous owner. It was actually a bank repo when I purchased it so you can only imagine.

It would be great to find a Pinnacle owner that had saved his schematics or service information for his RV, if it even exist? And your right, not a lot of thought or quality control went into the production of this MH. Hopefully this is not how they're all built since I have nothing to compare this too?

So far I have rebuilt the transmission for having no reverse, replaced one of the autobrake cables. I overhauled the 6 gal pilot light water heater cause it looked like it was leaking all over the place only to find out it's not the original one designed for this MH. So I will pick up a 10 gal DSI sometime in the near future. The Genset didnt run, so I had to removed the carb and clean it out. I replaced all the hoses and belts on the engine only to find out why the ac belt shredded itself, the compressor froze! This will be my next project! The list seems to go on and on.

And I still need to fill the LPG tank to see if the fridge, stove, water heater and furnace will work. Hopefully I will get to this in a couple weeks with success!

Boy I'll tell you, this is my first RV and I am learning a lot! My family and I can't wait till I get er done so we can take our first trip (short and local of course). I've gotten to know this thing pretty well so far so if you get stumped on something let me know, maybe I can help.

Thanks, Todd
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:07 AM   #5
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Morning Todd,

I think I got all of the documentation that the original owner had. There was a binder with all the appliance owner manuals, Owners manual for the chassis, Owners manual for the Pinnacle, and the Chevrolet Motorhome Chassis Guide. I have since added the Chevrolet Motorhome Service manual, and 1993 Chevrolet P models Wiring Diagrams. No wiring diagram of the coach. IIRC I have read that Fleetwood had one, I don't remember seeing one for the Airstream my Dad had. If Thor West hadn't of been sold, and the buyer folding soon after, there would be a chance. Now I think the best chance of finding the factory stuff is in a landfill. There maybe something out there, hopefully we'll get lucky.

The wiring I've done so far has been in the dash and in front of the radiator. I replaced the speakers in the cab and when I did that I found about a dozen wires without connection. It appears that most of the coach electrical is in one of the top frame tubes. I have a "Toner" (puts an audio tone on the wire) so I've found a few circuits.

Eeek, transmission rebuild, I've got a howl in the rear axle, Lucas gear oil has quieted it a bit. I had to replace the stove, the oven didn't work, and the part to fix was discontinued. About the filling the LPG tank. I've also added a ball valve and hose to the LPG tan so that I could connect external LPG tank/bottle. I intend to live in it so not having to move it to fill the LPG is a must.

I also had to replace the fuel pump on the generator. In the process found out that the MH mfg.s set the gen to run out of gas before the tank goes empty. Good idea if you know about it.

I haven't got to the engine yet. I did drive it about 9 miles from where I bought it home. It does seem to lack power on the bottom end. I'm waiting on a new set of rims for the front, then when the old rims come off, I'll pressure wash the front end. When it's clean then I'll run a compression check and see if I can get a handle on the fuel injection.

I'm living in mine right now, it's parked in front of my storage/shop. The construction on the Pinnacle doesn't isn't all bad. The main problem I see so far is the end cap seals, and the end caps arn't insulated. I've got water damage problem with the wood paneling behind drivers door and passenger window. I'm waiting for the EPDM coating to cure so I can finish caulking the seams.

I'm going up to the "Boondocking" forum to see if there is anything there about upgrading the Converter/Charger. If there is anything I can help you with let me know.

Larry


Quote:
Originally Posted by AzCactusRV View Post
Hi Larry, looks like we picked up our MH's about the same time. The lack of tech data does put a damper on trying to fix stuff. Mine too had been sitting for a while and it was neglected by the previous owner. It was actually a bank repo when I purchased it so you can only imagine.

It would be great to find a Pinnacle owner that had saved his schematics or service information for his RV, if it even exist? And your right, not a lot of thought or quality control went into the production of this MH. Hopefully this is not how they're all built since I have nothing to compare this too?

So far I have rebuilt the transmission for having no reverse, replaced one of the autobrake cables. I overhauled the 6 gal pilot light water heater cause it looked like it was leaking all over the place only to find out it's not the original one designed for this MH. So I will pick up a 10 gal DSI sometime in the near future. The Genset didnt run, so I had to removed the carb and clean it out. I replaced all the hoses and belts on the engine only to find out why the ac belt shredded itself, the compressor froze! This will be my next project! The list seems to go on and on.

And I still need to fill the LPG tank to see if the fridge, stove, water heater and furnace will work. Hopefully I will get to this in a couple weeks with success!

Boy I'll tell you, this is my first RV and I am learning a lot! My family and I can't wait till I get er done so we can take our first trip (short and local of course). I've gotten to know this thing pretty well so far so if you get stumped on something let me know, maybe I can help.

Thanks, Todd
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Old 03-10-2011, 11:30 PM   #6
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Larry, sounds like you have your hands full as do I. You mentioned about the wiring running along the roof. Can you be more specific? If I wanted to run some wires from front to rear how would I do this?

Also, do you have a skylight in the bathroom? It appears to block the flow of ac to the back two left hand ceiling vents on mine. Have you noticed this on yours? You think they would have designed a go around when installing the skylight? Maybe thats asking to much?

Thanks, Todd
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Old 03-11-2011, 09:58 AM   #7
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Todd, I've had two occasions to look at the wiring. Once when replacing the speaker above the drivers door, the other replacing the vent in the bathroom. The frame tube I refer to is just above the ceiling, in house framing it would be referred to as the top plate. When I replaced the speaker I could see wires go into the open end of the tube, Replacing the roof vent in the bathroom the 12v wires came out of what appears to be the same tube. My converter is on the drivers side above the bed, so that tube would be the logical way to run wires. From the research I did in the "Boondocking" forum I'm going to replace the converter. When I replace the converter I'll have a better chance to check the wiring. I want to run some wires for another set of speakers, so then I'll see if I can run the wire snake down the lenght of the RV.

I have a skylight directly above the shower, but my floor plan is different than yours. Here are some pics that the dealer took;

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/webU...47910623231233

I also have two AC units. I can see if you have a single AC in front where there might be a blockage. With the dual ACs I've assumed that the front and rear are separate. Then I've also noticed that on the heater vents that I have two on the passenger side that are not connected, they are dummies. The only heater vents that function are on the drivers side the same side the heater is on. A lot of what the mfg. do is a compromise(?) due to available options.

Larry
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Old 03-12-2011, 12:58 AM   #8
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Larry,

Ok good. Keep me posted on your wiring adventure. I would like to know if there are any paths going down the side to the chassis. I see a large bundle of wires running from the front to the rear along and above the driver side frame rail. Would be nice to be able to tie it all in when running circuits.

My converter is located of all places under the entrance step in it's own compartment. Kinda an odd place. It's got cooling vents on each side of it's enclosure exposed to the underside. Seems like a good candidate for water egress?

Yea I only have a single ac unit up front. Maybe if I ever have the skylight out I can see about creating a path around it.

I have the same two dummy vents. I think they were only intended to vent the compartment were my water heater lives.

I started on replacing the ac compressor today. Working lots of hours so it may take me a week to complete. Summer is around the corner here in AZ so looking forward to completing this.

I wasn't able to view the pics. It directed me to a login page.

Thanks, Todd
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Old 03-12-2011, 10:38 AM   #9
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It will be perhaps a month before I get to replacing the converter. I will keep you posted and even try and get some pictures. I've got the cameras, but usually get involved in the project and forget to take pictures.

I've got the same bundle of wires running down the drivers side. I have hydraulic levelers so I've been thinking most of the wires are for the levelers.

btw the one thing I found the owners manual useful for was the switches on the drivers door. The manual gives a description of what the switches are for. Some of the switches don't work or the option they were for wasn't installed.

I haven't actually located the converter yet. I'll check where the step is though my entry is probably further back than yours. I think I fixed the link to the pictures.

I replaced the alternator in the other RV, and that was no fun with the limited working room. I'm currently not employed, and my other projects for bringing extra money are on hold till I get a bit further along on the Pinnacle.

My projects for the day are to see if I can get the molding up on the side of the roof. Then check the frequency of the 110vac on the generator. The 110 on the gen doesn't always come in, so if I don't check it, I can end up just burning gas. If some of that get's done then I'll try and tidy up some of the wiring for the console I'm building to replace the TV.

Larry
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Old 03-15-2011, 07:42 AM   #10
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Larry

Yea, if you look at the kick panel on the first step into the MH, you might see four plastic buttons. These cover the screws that remove that panel to gain access to the converter. Are you going with a bigger one?

I wouldn't mind getting a copy of that manual. I was wondering if some of them switches were used or not. Already found a bad one for my GenSet. Wasnt able to start from panel only shut down. I swapped with the booster switch now all works good.

I got all the motor ac components installed and decided to take it to the local auto ac shop to be serviced. Good thing, it has a small leak that even he is having trouble finding. Should find out today about the outcome.

I don't seem to have any issues on my roof right now. I was up there a couple weeks ago and it seemed ok. Guess I'll find out when the monsoons get here. Is there something I should be looking for?

I picked up a 50 to 30 amp adapter yesterday. When I get the MH back I'm going to try and hook up shore power from my garage. This will be the final test for my converter/charger Hopefully no issues.

I think I will fill the propane tank up too. Don't know why but I keep putting this off. Guess I'm fearing the worst here. Hopefully no issues here either. Wish me luck.

Todd
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Old 03-15-2011, 10:36 AM   #11
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I followed your directions to the location of the converter. When I did the work on the wiring I added a volt meter. The best I saw out of the converter when starting the gen was 12.5v. After running for 3-4 hours the voltage would climb to 12.8v. If I put my 20 amp battery charger on the batteries, I would see 13.1v immediately. The info I found in "Boondocking" forum pretty much said that the OEM converters were only good if tied to shore power. Since I've added some additional load and want to dry camp (boondocking), I'm going to go with an 80 amp PD9280.

I'll try and get a copy of the manual for you. Oakdale doesn't have a Kinko's, it's in Modesto, so it may be a bit. I'll see if they can shave the glue binder of and copy it.

I haven't really done anything on my engine yet.

My main concern on the roof was where the roof meets the end caps. There is water damage behind the drivers door and passenger window. There was even a mushroom farm under the couch. The roof didn't look real good and appeared to be well weathered. I had the local RV shop look at it and they said it needed an acid wash and coating. The caulking in places was cracked and not sealing. I removed all the old caulking, re-caulked everything but the end caps, and then used EPDM coating on the roof. I'm waiting for the coating to cure then I'll finish caulking.

Good luck on the shore power test.

When you get the tank full and have propane to the appliances, check your connections with a spray bottle of soapy water. Mine all seemed to be good. Though there seems to be some issue with the radiant heater the previous owner installed. The radiant heater is in the entry way right above gas monitor. Occasionally the gas monitor will shut the gas off after I light the heater, not sure what is going on. Reset the gas monitor and relight the heater it all works then with out problem.

Larry
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Old 03-22-2011, 07:04 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LGriffin
I followed your directions to the location of the converter. When I did the work on the wiring I added a volt meter. The best I saw out of the converter when starting the gen was 12.5v. After running for 3-4 hours the voltage would climb to 12.8v. If I put my 20 amp battery charger on the batteries, I would see 13.1v immediately. The info I found in "Boondocking" forum pretty much said that the OEM converters were only good if tied to shore power. Since I've added some additional load and want to dry camp (boondocking), I'm going to go with an 80 amp PD9280.

I'll try and get a copy of the manual for you. Oakdale doesn't have a Kinko's, it's in Modesto, so it may be a bit. I'll see if they can shave the glue binder of and copy it.

I haven't really done anything on my engine yet.

My main concern on the roof was where the roof meets the end caps. There is water damage behind the drivers door and passenger window. There was even a mushroom farm under the couch. The roof didn't look real good and appeared to be well weathered. I had the local RV shop look at it and they said it needed an acid wash and coating. The caulking in places was cracked and not sealing. I removed all the old caulking, re-caulked everything but the end caps, and then used EPDM coating on the roof. I'm waiting for the coating to cure then I'll finish caulking.

Good luck on the shore power test.

When you get the tank full and have propane to the appliances, check your connections with a spray bottle of soapy water. Mine all seemed to be good. Though there seems to be some issue with the radiant heater the previous owner installed. The radiant heater is in the entry way right above gas monitor. Occasionally the gas monitor will shut the gas off after I light the heater, not sure what is going on. Reset the gas monitor and relight the heater it all works then with out problem.

Larry
On mine, I have a multi battery isolator that allows the engine alternator to charge both the chassis and house batteries when the engine is running. I will check voltage with engine running then on shore power to see if there is any difference. Mine is a 40 amp unit.

Shore power test went fine. AC unit works fine. I noticed only a couple of ac outlets work when my generator is running. I haven't checked but I assume the others will work with shore power connected.

LP test didn't go so well. The stove is about the only thing that worked. The water heater burner is sputtering when on, must be a regulator problem. Not to worried about it since I'm going to pick up the correct one for this MH.

The furnace wasn't doing anything one day then the next day the blower motor came alive but made so much racket that I had to shut it down before the burner kicked in. When I took it apart I found the motor bearings shot. So since I won't need the furnace till next winter I will put it on the shelf till then. Looks like a new motor and squirrel cage will run me about $100.

Not sure what's going on with the fridge. I can here the burner fire up but after an hour I did not notice the fridge getting cold? It also has AC on it but I don't think this is working at all. When I select auto on shore power with the propane off it reverts to LP with a red "x" indication. Still doing research on this.

No hurry on the copy. When ever it's convenient for you. I appreciate the effort.

I was nosing around under my couch, (directly behind the drivers seat), And I noticed a large bundle of wires running in the corner at the base of the wall from the raised floor under the drivers seat all the way back behind the kitchen and beyond. This might be the main bundle that runs to the back toward the power panel. This is also the main bundle that makes it's way to the front. If I removed the couch I can easily access this bundle. Just got to figure out were it goes after it leaves the kitchen and enters the bathroom!

Thanks, Todd
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Old 03-23-2011, 10:53 AM   #13
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I have an isolator on mine. I don't know what the amperage is. Should be equivalent to what ever the amperage out put of the alternator is.

I have the same problem with the AC. The AC plugs in the kitchen area only work on shore power. I wonder what the reason is for that.

There is an adjustment on air to the burner. I have played with that to try and quiet the burner down, but it seems like any wind will affect the burner.

I have a Norcood frig and it seems to default to LP too. You must have a different frig than I do. I've set my frig for Auto, and if there is no LPG, I get a message "No Fl" for no flame. It does take awhile for the frig to get cold. I have a problem with the temp sender(?) on my frig and it get's too cold. I've ordered another temp sender to hopefully fix the problem.

I did check with Kinko's. They won't copy the manual, copyright problems. They will let me copy it. Hopefully they will be able to slice the glue off the binding, so I can copy.

I've got the same bundle of wires under the couch. Let me what you find.

I replaced the converter yesterday. It was as simple as I read. All I had to do was cut the DC voltage wires from the old converter, tin, and attach to the new one. Then I had to change the AC plug for a standard three prong. The plug that was on the new converter was three prong, but one of the prongs was horizontal rather than vertical. I probably voided the warranty, but it works. I'm hooked to shore power and getting a 13.6 charging voltage. I'm going to let the batteries stay on shore power and charge up. Then I'll check the charge with a hydrometer. After that I'll see what it takes to keep the batteries up with the gen.

I bought the converter on ebay. The seller had the best price, though he should have listed it as an OEM replacement. The reason being that the manual says retail versions of the converter come with the Remote Pendant. Mine did not come with the pendant. I ordered the pendant from the same seller. The combined cost is still a bit better that the other sellers.

I did pop the cover off the old 40 amp converter, and saw why they arn't thought of as being worth much. The old unit consisted of 3 diodes, 3 capacitors, and a transformer, not much sophistication.

I'm going to take a little break from the RV and pull the motor on my 63 Chev pickup.

Larry
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Old 03-23-2011, 09:01 PM   #14
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I discovered that the outlet to my fridge was not working. Also a few others weren't working either. I tried shore and generator but they are dead. So I ripped and teared and dismantled to try and trace the romex from the fridge. What a chore! It goes from the fridge fwd under the seating area then crosses under the floor to the other side behind the stove. I stopped there because directly back in the bedroom (driver side) on the same side was also a dead outlet. So I went back there and had continuity to the fridge outlet. So the break was between that outlet and the power source. So I ripped and teared and dismantled panels in the MB where the shelf and cutout for the TV live. The romex runs up the wall with the bathroom vent PVC to the tv outlet then goes fwd to the bathroom outlet. What kind of outlets do they have in bathrooms? Yep... GFI's. So I reset the GFI and everything works great! So yea I'm feeling a little stupid. I wouldn't have thought they would have a bathroom GFI in control of half the outlets although the fridge and outside outlet are exposed to the elements as is the one under the kitchen counter. So it kinda makes sense but just didn't occur to me. Oh well.

Once I get everything back together I will map which outlets work on shore power and which ones work on the generator.

Look and see what model it is to see if it's a two way or three way fridge. If think if the model number ends in a 2 it's a two way (AC and LP) like mine #682. If it ends in a 3 it's a three way (AC, DC and LP).

I did hook up an extension cord to the fridge and after an hour it was getting pretty cold. After I get everything back together I will try it on LP.

I wouldn't bother going to to much trouble on the manual, just throw it on a copier. If it's legible that will work for me. I'm sure I'll stumble across and original copy down the road sometime.

The pin difference on your converter is related to outlet amps. The plug on the new converter is probably set up for 30 amp 110 VAC outlet. This way you don't plug a 30 amp device into a 15 amp outlet. You might want to run a new 10-2 romex back to your panel to handle the higher output of the converter. You will risk over heating the original 14-2 or 12-2 romex that supplied the original converter. I did notice back at my power panel that the input romex from the shore cord and generator is 10-2.

It looks like I have everything identified. Water heater and furnace parts should be the worse. Need a microwave and my dining window is cracked. Also need another battery disconnect solenoid, mines stuck in the connect position. Then I can start working on cleaning and detailing the interior/exterior.

Do you happen to know the manufacture of the windows?

Good luck on your truck. Old chevys never die!

Todd
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