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Old 10-08-2011, 10:15 PM   #1
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To Tarp or not to Tarp?

To Tarp or not to Tarp? That is the question. I always thought that tarping a RV was a bad idea but after looking at the Tyveck fabrics I wondering if that is now just old school thinking. I live in Nova Scotia, weather very similar to the North East States, and don't have access to a garage for over winter parking. What I'm thinking of tarping is a Serrano 31V with a custom shaped tarp or should I just leave the roof vents, with Max Air covers, open?
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Old 10-08-2011, 11:07 PM   #2
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Moisture under the tarp will mould and stain the roof, many other posters say that any cover,no mater how tight a fit, will rub the paint. In NS you would not want to leave vents open. Buy 2 Dri-Z-airs ( chemical de-humidifiers)one for each end of the unit. Place them on plastic trays in case they spill. Check the dryers every 2 weeks, drain moisture( high salt content will stain fabric) and re-fill chemical as required.
Method 2 , prefered by many; Nov 1 point unit south keep going till drier weather occours.. Safe travels.
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Old 10-09-2011, 07:38 AM   #3
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Thanks for the info. Just checked the Dri-Z-airs out on Google. They are available at Canadian Tire and really look like the way to go. Your method 2 would be the prefered option but not available at this time. lol.
I know it depends on humidity levels but on average how long does a bag of pellets last?
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Old 10-09-2011, 10:57 PM   #4
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Thanks for the info. Just checked the Dri-Z-airs out on Google. They are available at Canadian Tire and really look like the way to go. Your method 2 would be the prefered option but not available at this time. lol.
I know it depends on humidity levels but on average how long does a bag of pellets last?
Here on the other coast, before I started with option 2, a 1KG container would last the season, in my 30' 5th wheel. You should have a good idea how much you'll need by the end of the first month.
Also , leave all the cupboard doors & drawers open a little , so the unit warms up equally when the sun gets on it, otherwise you'll get condensation in the cold side cupboards.
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Old 10-11-2011, 07:18 AM   #5
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I cover mine every winter no tarps a good breathable cover has zips in the side so you can still get in I have no trouble with it damaging paint and it keeps it clean and protected. Have never had any mold or mildew issues.
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Old 10-11-2011, 07:27 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by IMDSailor View Post
Thanks for the info. Just checked the Dri-Z-airs out on Google. They are available at Canadian Tire and really look like the way to go. Your method 2 would be the prefered option but not available at this time. lol.
I know it depends on humidity levels but on average how long does a bag of pellets last?
I put 2 in my MH. They lasted the winter. As another says, make sure you put a plastic tray under. I've gone back and checked them and the catch bowls have been at capacity. The water is very caustic. Always a good idea to check them once a month just so you can monitor how much moisture they are collecting. You can regulate your own check schedule from there.
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:51 PM   #7
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Back to your question. Before I built my RV garage I covered our 5er with a yellow farm tarp. They would last about 3 winters before sun rot caused it to rip in places. I used triple the amount of grommets the tarp came with, you know, those add-a-grommet thingies. I used elastic cords to hold the tarp taut so wind would not cause it to billow or move about.
I did this for 7 years and never did discover any wear places on the 5er from the tarp. Moisture does not build-up under the tarp because the air conditioner and vent covers hold the tarp away from the roof enough for air circulation. If more height is needed between tarp and roof, 1-3 old inflated tire tube/beach ball, etc. will suffice. This also prevents water pooling on the roof.
That's my experience covering an RV with a tarp., others have different results.
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:54 PM   #8
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I put 2 in my MH. They lasted the winter. As another says, make sure you put a plastic tray under. I've gone back and checked them and the catch bowls have been at capacity. The water is very caustic. Always a good idea to check them once a month just so you can monitor how much moisture they are collecting. You can regulate your own check schedule from there.
You are right. The substance in them is normally Ammonium Nitrate.
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Old 10-16-2011, 10:30 PM   #9
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We just bought a Tyveck cover. I am nervous about how easy or difficult the installation will be. Our RV storage is under 40' pine trees and the sap is horrible.
we have just bought a 2012 and thought the investment might help keep the roof in better shape. Our previous trailer was difficult to keep the roof clean want had multiple discolored places on the roof. Any clues and tips would be appreciated - thanks
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Old 10-22-2011, 10:19 PM   #10
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Most winters I'll store my trailer outdoors (NE Ohio). In the storage place there will be 6 or 8 other RV's. The ones that have put a RV cover on there unit I have seen damage from the cover catching wind and rubbing against the unit causing marks....Now if it is on your property, you will be able to check on it every day to see if then cover is becoming loose. Sometimes its a month between visits....so I don't cover mine....
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Old 10-22-2011, 11:23 PM   #11
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We just bought a Tyveck cover. I am nervous about how easy or difficult the installation will be. Our RV storage is under 40' pine trees and the sap is horrible.
we have just bought a 2012 and thought the investment might help keep the roof in better shape. Our previous trailer was difficult to keep the roof clean want had multiple discolored places on the roof. Any clues and tips would be appreciated - thanks
Lay it out alonside your MH \ trailer, get about a 20' rope and noose your cover about 10' from the front. Throw the rest of the rope onto the roof. Get on the roof and haul it up, continue your way to the back of the rig, pulling the rest of the cover up. Now you have the roll of cover on your roof. If your ladder is on the right side like mine, you start at the front and throw the cover over the front, then down the left side, then go back to the front and start throwing it over the right side, working your way to the back.
Real simple. Once you get the cover on your roof, you'll know exactly what to do .
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Old 10-23-2011, 06:40 AM   #12
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cover

how about the front mirrors? big gap between cover and coach. Mine stick out about a foot from windshield edge.
previous experience was a loose cover, needed extra grommets to keep it tight. more rope to cinch the bottom.
if it stays tight you have no rubbing on paint.
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