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Old 02-14-2018, 04:08 PM   #1
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Maxxforce 10 Stage 4 Regen

The motorhome has been sitting a couple of months and not run on the road due to cold weather. I have started it every three weeks just long enough to get temperatures up and oil circulating. I know I should be driving it more often but schedule has not allowed. Planning to use it this weekend and started the motor to get things ready and engine was showing "stage 4" dpf light with the flashing red light during idle. After a couple of minutes the light went out and all appeared normal and then a minute or so later came back on.
Light then went back off again as though all is normal. I am hoping that this is a temporary condition and will take care of itself once the engine is run on the road and brought back to normal operating temperatures. I have never had to do a passive regeneration (stage 3) and the engine has around 24000 miles. Any ideas appreciated but will probably find out tomorrow when I get it back on the road.
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Old 02-14-2018, 07:44 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertj1979 View Post
The motorhome has been sitting a couple of months and not run on the road due to cold weather. I have started it every three weeks just long enough to get temperatures up and oil circulating. I know I should be driving it more often but schedule has not allowed. Planning to use it this weekend and started the motor to get things ready and engine was showing "stage 4" dpf light with the flashing red light during idle. After a couple of minutes the light went out and all appeared normal and then a minute or so later came back on.
Light then went back off again as though all is normal. I am hoping that this is a temporary condition and will take care of itself once the engine is run on the road and brought back to normal operating temperatures. I have never had to do a passive regeneration (stage 3) and the engine has around 24000 miles. Any ideas appreciated but will probably find out tomorrow when I get it back on the road.
Robert let's hope you are not into stage 4, cause that means you will have to be towed in to the shop.

One thing to never ever do with these engines is to just start them up and warm up without driving. Idling and just warming up the engine as you have said without driving it for at least 20 miles at highway speeds will cause the problems you just explained. The engine has to be driven at least 45+mph to do a passive regen.
I really hope you will be able to get out on the road and drive out of it or at least if the lights come on again try and do a parked regen.

If you go into Stage 4 before getting a regen done you will have to be towed into a shop to get the DPF cleaned out

If the light comes on again I would immediately try to do a parked regen.
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Old 02-14-2018, 07:52 PM   #3
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Robert this whole thread will have some good information for you but OutandAround post #28 is really helpful in explaining how to handle these engines

First Issue With MF 10
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Old 02-15-2018, 12:52 AM   #4
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I read that post some time ago and thanks for reminding me to read it again. I tried to do a parked regen when the stop engine light started flashing but it would not allow it. I am hoping when I get it on the road it will be ok but will find out shortly I suppose. I guess i was expecting to reach “ stage 3” parked regeneration if there was a problem rather than go directly to “ stage 4” but that never occurred. Will report back when i am able to get it out on the road most likely in a day or so.
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Old 02-15-2018, 07:28 AM   #5
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A lot of issues here. I have about 29K miles on my MF10 and have never had to do a parked regen. All engines increase the fuel/air mixture when cold to help starting etc. so this will clog the DPF faster and allow water vapor to collect in the crankcase. As suggested NEVER just start any engine and let idle. Drive the coach to operating temperatures (about 20-30 miles). If needed parked regens must have the engine at operating temperatures to allow the DPF to burn residue off. All of my regens have been passive as I drive down the road. When I'm in slow traffic I go to lower transmission gears, 1 or 2, to keep the RPM's around 1200-1500. Hope you get your MF10 up to operating temperature and can do a passive or active regen.
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Old 02-15-2018, 07:50 AM   #6
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I am happy to report that everything "seems" back to normal. I was able to get the motorhome on the road for a 30 minute drive down the interstate. The red flashing light initially came on as before but intermittently turned off. When it turned off I pulled out of the driveway and "floored it" and tons of white/blue smoke came pouring out of the exhaust pipe. Ran it for about 20 minutes and the flashing light came on requesting I do a parked regen. I could not get it to initiate a parked regen when stopped so restarted the engine and the flashing light was out. Ran it another 20 minutes and no lights. I know I am not totally out of the woods on this issue but hopefully will not show up again.
I agree with all comments but the surprise to this for me was that I have also never had to do a parked regen and expected it would have gone to stage 3 before stage 4.
I normally do not have it sitting idle for such a long time but could not be avoided.

Thanks for all replies...

Lesson learned and do not plan to idle it even during periods of inactivity.
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Old 02-15-2018, 10:34 AM   #7
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Robert really happy to hear that, you had me nervous when you we're giving us the information.
These engines work great and do a great job, but with the new emissions any of the new engines do not like to be idled or warmed up without being driven, they need to work and create heat to be effective.
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Old 02-15-2018, 10:51 AM   #8
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A lot of issues here. I have about 29K miles on my MF10 and have never had to do a parked regen. All engines increase the fuel/air mixture when cold to help starting etc. so this will clog the DPF faster and allow water vapor to collect in the crankcase. As suggested NEVER just start any engine and let idle. Drive the coach to operating temperatures (about 20-30 miles). If needed parked regens must have the engine at operating temperatures to allow the DPF to burn residue off. All of my regens have been passive as I drive down the road. When I'm in slow traffic I go to lower transmission gears, 1 or 2, to keep the RPM's around 1200-1500. Hope you get your MF10 up to operating temperature and can do a passive or active regen.

That info is news to me. Could you elaborate on that?
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Old 02-15-2018, 02:03 PM   #9
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That info is news to me. Could you elaborate on that?
Drove two hours on the interstate with no problems or required regens.

For more information regarding this problem and others suggest checking out Traps link in this thread “First issue with MF 10. It is a very detailed post of important information regarding this engine and agree with all information there given my personal experience.


Thanks again for replies and assistance.
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Old 02-15-2018, 03:41 PM   #10
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That info is news to me. Could you elaborate on that?
I'm old enough to have built and worked on engines in the 60's. Think of what a carburetor does when starting an engine or even your lawn mower, your air is restricted increasing the air fuel ratio. This can be done my increasing fuel or reducing air or both. As the engine warms the fuel ratio is reduced. The MF10 reaches normal operating temp. at 170 degrees.

There is a series of steps the MF10 goes through if the Tech needs to clear codes and bring the engine back to normal operation. This can not be done to an engine below normal operating temps.
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Old 02-15-2018, 08:01 PM   #11
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Based on my experience with the MF10 in my coach, I suggest you drive it to an International shop (if you have one reasonably close to you) and have them run through the system. I had a series of issues related to the emission system and the last one was only evident by an intermittent malfunction light. We had the dpf cleaned 3 times within about a thousand miles before I insisted that they check the previous warranty work records and look deeper into the cause. Turned out there were several things that ultimately were replaced and it took several trips to the shop to get it totally sorted out. I'm just thankful warranty covered it all. In your case, there very well could be an issue that goes beyond a dpf cleaning and you definitely don't want to have those occur when you head out on your next trip.

Good Luck!
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Old 02-20-2018, 06:18 PM   #12
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After completing a two hour trip and a two day stay, the stop engine light came on again with the flashing regen light. Was able to get back home however without any problems but noticed that the coach seemed a bit “sluggish” climbing hills. No lights were present during the trip back. I checked the engine diagnostic computer that showed “no active faults”.
Started the motor home again a couple days later and again the stop engine light along with the flashing regen light came on. Checked the engine diagnostic code again and showed a fault code of SPN 111 FI 1. After researching the code it shows low coolant. After rechecking the coolant recovery tank noticed the coolant level was barely reaching the sensor.
It seems the flashing red light and regen light was a result of the coolant being slightly low. Restarted after adding coolant and no flashing lights. Hopefully problem is now solved but need to check and make sure power level and turbo boost pressure is normal. Sorry for long post and should have probably discovered this simple solution sooner.
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Old 02-20-2018, 06:54 PM   #13
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Just a word of warning....
If and When you do a stationary regen.. be very careful that you are parked on a hard and clean of debris surface..
The exhaust system will have a very elevated temperature level during regen ....and can cause fires.....(smells funny as well....)
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