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Old 12-28-2017, 05:19 PM   #1
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Radiator flush/coolant change on Maxforce 10, DIY?

Has anyone performed the flush and coolant change on their Maxforce 10 engine? I would like to do so on my coach, but don't know how, and am looking for any tips, etc?

If not, how much does it cost at a repair shop?

Thanks, Randy
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Old 01-04-2018, 07:58 PM   #2
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Starting to think your one of the first to want to change out there coolant themselves. Wish I could help but since we fulltime I will most likely have to get a shop to do it when the time comes.

Hope someone pipes in with some helpful hints soon
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Old 01-21-2018, 05:41 PM   #3
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Starting to think your one of the first to want to change out there coolant themselves. Wish I could help but since we fulltime I will most likely have to get a shop to do it when the time comes.

Hope someone pipes in with some helpful hints soon
Looks like I'm taking it to the shop... have coolant leaking from what appears to be a coolant filter? Can't really see it very good, and don't have any knowledge about such a filter. Didn't leak until I topped off the coolant tank?
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Old 01-22-2018, 09:48 AM   #4
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I have the same coach and engine and am planning on changing my coolant soon. There is no coolant filter (that is shown in the manual or that I can see) but there are lots of hoses and connections. Where is the leak? Driver or passenger side, top or bottom, and a picture would help.
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Old 01-22-2018, 01:01 PM   #5
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I gave up years ago changing my own coolant on all vehicles (Used to have an MH) because I did not know where I could legally dispose of the old coolant. Cannot pour it down the drain, on the ground or in the gutter. I don't want to store it forever.
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Old 01-23-2018, 08:21 AM   #6
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I have the same coach and engine and am planning on changing my coolant soon. There is no coolant filter (that is shown in the manual or that I can see) but there are lots of hoses and connections. Where is the leak? Driver or passenger side, top or bottom, and a picture would help.
Haven't had time to remove the floor to get a better view, but will in the next couple of days.
From the overflow tank, the radiator fill line (metal) is routed behind the radiator across to the driver's side where it changes to a hose. From there it turns down and towards the engine. I have removed the wire mesh screen below the engine and spent alot of time with a bright light trying to find the leak. It appears to be coming from where the hose connects, but I cannot see that area very good from below or from the side by the muffler. It is in front of and slightly above the alternator. Hopefully, I will be able to get a better look, and pics when the floor is removed.
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Old 01-23-2018, 10:42 AM   #7
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Hopefully it is just a loose hose clamp.
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Old 01-24-2018, 09:20 AM   #8
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Hopefully it is just a loose hose clamp.
This is where the leak is coming from. Anyone know what this is?Click image for larger version

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Old 01-25-2018, 11:33 AM   #9
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This issue is pretty frustrating!

Access to anything on the motor is pretty difficult, but the metal canister in the above picture was wet (viewed from top and bottom) and slowly dripping when the overflow canister was about half way between cold min and max. Once the level in the overflow tank leaked down to the lower cold level, the leak stopped. I drove about 20 miles with the heater running to ensure all of the coolant hoses were in-use and up to temperature. No leaks found with the engine hot or overnight with everything cooled down.

Not sure what to think about this issue??
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Old 01-25-2018, 01:44 PM   #10
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Randy,

I went out and looked at mine and it is hard to get to (like everything else...) and while I don't know what it is exactly it appears to be some type of splitter valve as there are 3 hoses on it.

If it were me I would replace the spring hose clamps with some high quality screw clamps and see if that takes care of the problem.

Good luck
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Old 01-25-2018, 06:54 PM   #11
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I believe that it is a thermostat. It controls the water to the heater core for the drivers and passenger area. It will not let water flow to the core until a set temp. Sometimes it gets a hole in it from rubbing it the clamp/holder. You can replace it with a "T" or "Y" from any auto parts store. I believe it is 5/8". Just don't turn on the blower until the engine temp. is up. 36PFT
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Old 01-26-2018, 10:04 AM   #12
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I believe that it is a thermostat. It controls the water to the heater core for the drivers and passenger area. It will not let water flow to the core until a set temp. Sometimes it gets a hole in it from rubbing it the clamp/holder. You can replace it with a "T" or "Y" from any auto parts store. I believe it is 5/8". Just don't turn on the blower until the engine temp. is up. 36PFT
Thanks guys! I don't think that I can reach it to replace the clamps or the thermostat. I don't like to take the MH anywhere to get it worked on but due to poor access, I may have to on this. It's not curently leaking, but I don't want to worry about it leaking in the future.
I took it to SanTex Truck Center in San Antonio a couple of years ago for the software update, and they were good to deal with, so I'll probably take it there. The International shop in Austin doesn't work on RVs.
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Old 01-26-2018, 11:35 AM   #13
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I think that the air filter canister has to be removed to access it. And long arms are good also. Stan
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Old 01-26-2018, 04:37 PM   #14
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I think that the air filter canister has to be removed to access it. And long arms are good also. Stan
I think you are correct on both the air filter canister and long arms. I looked at that a couple of days ago and could not see a way to get to the hose clamp on the front of the air filter canister. Couldn't even see the adjustment screw/bolt from underneath or from the front, but the rear one is doable. Surely you don't have to remove the plastic liner in the rear compartment where the electrical box is located? I may take another look at at before giving up and taking it to the shop.
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