2011 Journey Overheating

[Leo McCloske]

I just bought the 2011 Journey 40U at Lazy Days and we love it. It has the best design and features of any I have seen. I only have one issue that has not been fixed. The cummings engine has overheated 3 times now. I got it out of the shop yesterday after the techs when through it and found no problem. The said they repressurized the system and cleared out the error code. One my way home the temperature gage shot up to red, a warning indicator said coolant over temp. The last time a check engine light came on and then a red light which indicated stop. Has anyone got a clue what is going on?

[CaptBill]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leo McCloske I just bought the 2011 Journey 40U at Lazy Days and we love it. It has the best design and features of any I have seen. I only have one issue that has not been fixed. The cummings engine has overheated 3 times now. I got it out of the shop yesterday after the techs when through it and found no problem. The said they repressurized the system and cleared out the error code. One my way home the temperature gage shot up to red, a warning indicator said coolant over temp. The last time a check engine light came on and then a red light which indicated stop. Has anyone got a clue what is going on?

Leo,

Sorry you are having this problem, and it is something that really needs to be looked at again. But since the title of this thread has to do with someone choosing one coach or the other, you really should start a new thread of your own, with appropriate title, and maybe put it in the Cummins Engines forum.

Good luck on this, and try to get the problem escalated to some higher level. (Cummins regional manager, or ??)

[spike45]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leo McCloske I just bought the 2011 Journey 40U at Lazy Days and we love it. It has the best design and features of any I have seen. I only have one issue that has not been fixed. The cummings engine has overheated 3 times now. I got it out of the shop yesterday after the techs when through it and found no problem. The said they repressurized the system and cleared out the error code. One my way home the temperature gage shot up to red, a warning indicator said coolant over temp. The last time a check engine light came on and then a red light which indicated stop. Has anyone got a clue what is going on?

When it is indicating overheat, can you verify the fan is moving a lot of air or just coasting at less than drive speed? What does "repressurizing mean"? Check to see that the coolant level is adequate. Is the pressure cap actually working at rated pressure? Is the antifreeze freeze point at -34F or higher? Be certain the side mount radiator is not obstructed in the core. Does the overheating occur with a steady but slow increase in temperature or sudden rise in temp. Have you noticed the temperature gauge rapidly change from normal temp to high temp and swing back to a lower temp? Has this occurred while running up hill steadily or does it occur on flat terrain? Are you certain the temperature gauge is accurate? You can get an inexpensive infrared heat gun to measure temperature in the engine and radiator lines. If the thermostat(s) is wide open directing all coolant to the radiator, the overheating is caused by either too much fuel rate or a radiator with less than sufficient cooling capacity. Cooling capacity is affected by air flow through the core (fan speed, obstructions, exterior plugging, internal coolant passage plugging). Slow but steady increase in temp over an hour to several hours is indicative of a radiator heat capacity issue; too little radiator for the heat load. If you experience overheating while operating on grades pulling a large load or just heavy are you in top gear or have you down shifted? Lugging up a hill even if the engine can do it can result in lower engine RPM with attendant lower water pump speed, slower coolant circulation, lower fan speed.....all contribute to more heat than you have capacity for. Do you have an exhaust pyrometer to measure exhaust temp? If you are operating around 1000 degrees the engine is lugging, down shift. You can check the thermostat yourself. Take it out. Put it into a pan of water on the stove. Heat the water and observe the water temperature that the valve begins to open. If you thermostat is marked "192" it means that it begins to open at that temp, not fully open. Full open should occur about 10 or 12 degrees higher. If it does not open at the 'cracking' temperature stamped on the sensing bulb replace it. Most thermostats fail closed. Some engines have a fan switch if you have electric activated fans in addition to the standard fan drive. Which engine is this?

[powerboatr]

yours is a rear radiator correct?
there is a wiring connector about a gnats rear away from the water pump pulley that connects to the fan clutch.

it is close enough that if it wiggles wrong the wires will be de-barked(striped) by the pulley and cause a NO FAN engage condition followed by a "hey I am hot" condition. it can be intermittent as well.

its up top and can be seen with a bright light.
we found mine after a few similar events like you describe
maybe it helps