6CTA No Start Condition

[sam60]

Battery is new, 13.1V.

Wanted a spare solenoid (the high mounted one) so installed new one.

I still only get a single click.

Guess I'll need to buy some heavy jack stands and contort to pull the starter.

[palehorse89]

Sam, before you pull the starter, have a friend try to start it while you are at the starter with a meter, to make sure the starter is getting the proper start voltage.......

[YC1]

Palehorse is correct. There could easily be another inline solenoid before the starter. Throwing parts at it can be expensive. Getting a couple of voltage measurements is much easier than lifting a heavy starter that may just have loose nuts or corroded cables.


You need to be extremely careful of course in case your probing with a voltmeter suddenly makes the circuit work and the thing turns over.

[sam60]

I checked for power to the starter with a test light prior, but I will need to purchase adequate jack stands and raise the rear to be able to get up closer to the solenoid to check connections.

Too low to work on from the top, too high to work on while laying on my back. Need to be able to sit to see and reach everything.

[palehorse89]

Originally Posted by sam60

I checked for power to the starter with a test light prior, but I will need to purchase adequate jack stands and raise the rear to be able to get up closer to the solenoid to check connections.

Too low to work on from the top, too high to work on while laying on my back. Need to be able to sit to see and reach everything.

You need to get a voltage meter so you know how many volts the starter is receiving when trying to start. The test light will light up at any DC voltage,dimmer as the volts drop........use a meter

[NHRA225]

Originally Posted by palehorse89

You need to get a voltage meter so you know how many volts the starter is receiving when trying to start. The test light will light up at any DC voltage,dimmer as the volts drop........use a meter

Ditto what Palehorse said--- Pulling that starter is a 2 man job one on top and one on the bottom, I used a sling from the top and my Buddy lowered it down once I had it ready. Be Careful with Jack stands under that Coach-- You know the weight involved.
Now, If there is no clicking or Voltage on start , Check for Start voltage on the Small wire attached to the Starter Solenoid S Terminal --you might look for a remote Starter Solenoid. to locate it - Trace the Smaller Wire from S Terminal from the Starter Solenoid to the Remote Solenoid- most likely somewhere in the Engine Compartment
>>http://www.sbmar.com/images/uploads/...oid_Wiring.jpg

[Air Baron]

After driving my used coach home and parking, it would not crank a few days later. The Cummins tech crawled underneath and wiggled the wires to the solenoid as I held the key in the start position. Bingo...it was just corroded connections. He cleaned them and it has not happened again. It does take 2 people...one of which is willing to lay underneath the engine as it starts.

[sam60]

Great info guys, thanks.

I'll get back into it this weekend. This job thing and darkness when I get home both impede progress.

I think a friend has a pair of 10 ton jack stands. I need to raise it to check the solenoid connections & put the fluke on it whilst someone turns the key.

Hey, I should get my mechanic pal to deliver the jack stands and tell him that he wouldn't be able to figure it out.......

[98Dynasty]

Just curious, have you tried to start it from the remote (rear) start switch in the engine compartment with ignition switch in the run position? I bumped that switch once on mine and had the same symptom.

[sam60]

I finally was able to spend some time on it today.

12.6V at battery, 8.7V at starter solenoid S terminal with key in start position.

Jumpered with a short piece of 12GA wire and it cranked and scared the crap out of me.

Tomorrow I'll remove and clean/noalox all of the terminations involved.

Thanks for the help all!