C8.3 Service

[quikduk]

I have been meaning to post this for a while now but haven't had the time.

I needed to perform a fluid service on our DP and had been gathering the parts for a while. I changed out the engine oil and filter, both the primary and secondary fuel filters, coolant (DCA) filter and re-built the air dryer that is responsible for cleaning and drying the air supply for the air-brakes and air-bag suspension. I also added a Fumoto #F104 drain valve in place of the factory oil pan drain plug to aid in future oil maintenance.

http://www.fumotousa.com/

[quikduk]

I have been meaning to post this for a while now but haven't had the time.

I needed to perform a fluid service on our DP and had been gathering the parts for a while. I changed out the engine oil and filter, both the primary and secondary fuel filters, coolant (DCA) filter and re-built the air dryer that is responsible for cleaning and drying the air supply for the air-brakes and air-bag suspension. I also added a Fumoto #F104 drain valve in place of the factory oil pan drain plug to aid in future oil maintenance.

http://www.fumotousa.com/

[quikduk]

I used Baldwin or Wix filters instead of Fleetguard as they are at least equal if not superior in quality and a bit cheaper. I have posted this info. somewhere else but can't remember at the moment so here it is again.

Here are the part numbers I have.

Oil Filter: LF3000 (LuberFiner/Fleetguard) ; BD-103 (Baldwin) ; 51748 (Wix) (+/- 22 quarts (15w40 HD diesel oil) with filter change including filling filter with about 2 quarts)

Primary Fuel Filter (w/water separator): FS1242 (Fleetguard, FS1242B indicates with bowl) ; BF1249 (Baldwin w/o bowl) ; S3201T (Alliance with bowl)

Secondary Fuel Filter: FF5018 (Fleetguard) ; BF988 (Baldwin) ; 33358 (Wix)

Coolant Filter: WF 2071 (Fleetguard w/4 units DCA, use at each oil change interval, test with strips) ; 24071 (Wix w/4 units DCA)

Midland Air Dryer:

Dessicant Filter: DA 33120

Coalescing Filter: DQ 6032

Air Dryer Filter Kit: DQ 6026 (includes both of the above items)

Repair Kit: DQ 6020 (includes new purge valve, 1-way check valve, turbo saver valve and all related o-rings etc.)

I still have to replace the broken DCA filter shut-off valve and a myriad of other items so more to come as usual.

[quikduk]

The ENGINE OIL FILTER is located below the turbo on the driver's side of the engine, is heavy and holds about 2 quarts of oil. Change it out AFTER the engine oil pan is emptied.



The PRIMARY FUEL FILTER is located on the passenger's side frame rail across from the engine fuel lift pump (middle of the engine block) and includes a water separator with drain.



The SECONDARY FUEL FILTER is located near the passenger's side front top of the engine, just below the valve cover and the throttle cable linkage support plate. It is a bit difficult to get to and should be accessed from the bottom. I had to snake my hand/arm between the block and wiring harnesses in order to get to it.



Both filters need to be filled with "CLEAN-FILTERED" diesel fuel to overflowing before you screw the replacement filters back on to prevent needing to re-prime the fuel system. Some coaches have a "prime feature due to the electronic fuel pumps but mine is a Bosch mechanical unit so this is the best procedure I have found. It should also be noted that with ALL FILTERS, you should fill (if possible due to mounting location) them through the "side" holes and not the large middle mounting hole as this gives the filter media a chance to "pre-filter" the fluids prior to introduction to your fuel/oil/coolant system.

BTW, the "fuel lift pump" is shown in the last photo, just forward and above the oil pressure switch.

[Mike Canter]

A big caution on changing the oil filters. For some reason the old rubber oring from the old filter like to stick to the motor half and may not be noticed because it is up high. Then you screw on the pre-oil filled new filter and now have two orings plus the extra benifits of a oil leak. Make sure the old oring comes out of any of the old filters.

[quikduk]

Funny you should say that Mike. I had that experience years ago and now always check, as well as thoroughly wipe off the area with solvent before lightly oiling and replacing the filter/o-ring.

Great tip though!

[becks]

I too had that double O-ring experience many many years ago, and have never forgotten to check since.

[Mike Canter]

Yep, I guess it can happen to all. I fixed a an oil leak on a 18 wheeler in a roadside park that had just had a "professional" oil change and had two orings in it. The driver was shocked.

[RicksDP]

Quikduk,

I just did the oil & filter change out and started to do the water filter. Is the screw/nut on top of the water shut off valve suppose to come out or just loosened to turn the valve in the off position?
Still have that and the fuel filters to do, Ive read some posts on the fuel filters and was going to fill the secondary and not fill the primary. I have an '98 8.3 rv-300.
Thanks, Rick

[quikduk]

Weeeellllll as Fire Marshall Bill used to say..."Let me tell ya somethin'."

I loosened the screw to rotate that P.O.S. phenolic shut off valve for the DCA filter BUT I didn't lube up the area with WD-40.

When I put the wrench on the flat to turn the "valve" off, the flat broke off (fragmented is more like it) without the valve moving a millimeter!

After more than a few choice words, I changed out the filter along with a stream of coolant, tightened the set bolt back up and left it until I could get the replacement part. Apparently, this is COMMON!!! with the Cummins engines...and the replacement part...get THIS...is machined STEEL!!!

Whodathunk?!

Anyway, enough whining...for now. I still have to change out this "shut off valve" but will have to drain a bunch of coolant out of the overflow tank, expansion tank and radiator so that I can spin off the new DCA filter. Because the filter is a one-time total release type, I can put it back on and not worry about the additives PROVIDED that I filter and re-use the existing coolant that I drained.

This is per Cummins.

The new part and accompanying o-ring are presently sitting on my work bench while I decide if I will change it out before this upcoming trip or just add an oversized steel washer to the flanged stop bolt until I get back.

BTW, the part with shipping was around $40 or so. I'll post how the replacement goes...WHEN it goes.

OH and re: the fuel filters, top them both off to overflowing (and wipe up the mess). You will have minimal issues if any with air in the lines if you do it this way. Newer engines may not require this method...but our C8.3's do. Also, fill the filters through the small perimeter holes and NOT through the center large hole. This way, the filters will "filter" out any contaminants that may have gotten in your fuel (dust, dirt etc.).

[RicksDP]

Thanks QDuck,

I tried this again yesterday before reading this post. Loosened the screw and put medium pressure on the valve, it did not move and I didn't want to break it. Sooo it looks like I'll drain a gallon or two and remove and replace with new filter. Thanks for the heads up on the secondary fuel filter as I was going to fill the primary(thru small holes) and leave the secondary dry.
Rick

[quikduk]

Go ahead if you have time and order the replacement steel shut off valve JIC.

Since you will be draining the coolant a bit to change the filter (approx. 5 gal or so I think), you should change this out to the better model to prevent future problems.

FWIW, the coolant filter recommended for anual services (along with the oil and oil filter per Cummins) is the one with 4 units of DCA. I still need to buy a coolant refractometer and more test strips to check mine.

Some people feel this is a PITA and go for the Final Charge stuff...but if you get a leak, you are not supposed to add any more and have to change out the whole mess. I can't verify this ATM and the shops I have spoken to recommend staying with the green stuff and the additives.

[quikduk]

Here is the new shutoff valve PN from Cummins.

#3010536

I have an o-ring taped to it by the shop that I purchased the part from but I don't have a number for that.



Presently the o-ring looks a little thin for the groove in the new SO valve so I will be checking this when I remove the old phenolic POS and if necessary get a thicker one.

[RicksDP]

I went ahead and removed the water filter and replaced with a wf2075. I had the filter ready and lost maybe a quart. Fired her up and re-filled and checked for leaks.
By the way the LF 9009 extended service oil filter fits and gives you more miles if you need them for about $3 more at filterbarn. My first year with mine and we did over 10,000 miles :0