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Old 05-10-2015, 09:16 PM   #1
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Changed fuel filters and oil and now engine won't start

Hey all,

I was helping my father do some service on his coach. the engine is a isl 8.3 and we decided to replace the fuel filter/water seperator and engine oil/filter. We installed the fuel filters dry (to avoid contamination) and turned the ignition over probably around 10 times to attempt to fill the fuel filters. we then tried to turn the engine over and nothing. it cranks over but will not start. we then removed both fuel filters and filled them with clean fuel. re installed fuel filters and still nothing. does anyone have any suggestions? there has to be some air in the system..
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Old 05-10-2015, 09:31 PM   #2
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Did basically the same thing to mine after reading that I should have been changing them dry. I was finally able to get it started by finding the return line to the tank and removing it from the top of the fuel tank plugging the line then cranking the engine. This forces fuel through the injectors because right now the path of least resistance for the fuel is to just return to the tank via the return line.
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Old 05-10-2015, 10:15 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by bdpreece View Post
Did basically the same thing to mine after reading that I should have been changing them dry. I was finally able to get it started by finding the return line to the tank and removing it from the top of the fuel tank plugging the line then cranking the engine. This forces fuel through the injectors because right now the path of least resistance for the fuel is to just return to the tank via the return line.
hmmm how did you plug the return?
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Old 05-10-2015, 11:15 PM   #4
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Well, there are those changed filters dry and those that will never do it again. Live and learn.
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Old 05-10-2015, 11:32 PM   #5
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Welcome to iRV2.
Sorry you're here with problems.
There is the possibility of a bad lift pump, so that should be checked out too.
Many members have installed an second lift pump at the fuel tank to help move fuel to engine bay.
What year is the coach ?
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Old 05-11-2015, 12:48 AM   #6
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hmmm how did you plug the return?
Removed return line from top of tank and put a screw in it to plug return.
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Old 05-11-2015, 12:56 AM   #7
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Well, there are those changed filters dry and those that will never do it again. Live and learn.
First time I changed them I pre filled then I read how Cummins says change dry. Spent about two hours trying to get it started. As you say Never Again!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 05-11-2015, 04:56 AM   #8
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The information here seems contradictory. Are people saying cummins says to change the filter dry (to avoid contamination), but that doesn't work so you should pre fill? Or does it not work if you have a defective fuel pump?
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Old 05-11-2015, 05:10 AM   #9
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If the directions indicate you should install the filter dry, that means there is a hand pump on the side of the engine (most of the time) you use to fill and pressurize your system before you try to crank the engine.

Now that you've introduced an air bubble into your fuel lines, it will take just a little longer to pump it out.

Not to worry, just find the hand pump, and all will be good to go.

DTW
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Old 05-11-2015, 05:38 AM   #10
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I have 3 Fuel Filters on my 8.3 and it does require to pre- fill the filters as demonstrated on the side of the filter. Even with that it burps a few times before it starts.
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Old 05-11-2015, 05:46 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdpreece View Post
First time I changed them I pre filled then I read how Cummins says change dry. Spent about two hours trying to get it started. As you say Never Again!!!!!!!!!!
AMEN. Really worried me that I had done something serious and was going to have to "bleed the injectors". Not done on mine of course but I was very new to this monster.

Following instructions from my manual it says to turn the key to the on position and let the fuel pump work. It indicates you need to do this several times. Did not work for me and I removed them and filled them using the methods described in other threads. I have tried them one at a time without prefilling and have had issues each time.

Plugging the return line would be easy on my unit and that gives me a great idea. I can disconnect the return line after cleaning it off and then let filtered fuel fill a container so pre-filling the filters will be easy.

There is not a hand pump on my rv. These "snow flakes" are all different and if you can install yours dry good for you. I don't need the frustration.
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Old 05-11-2015, 06:12 AM   #12
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i owned my own trucks and allways prefilled the filters before installing them never had a problem, in fact i have never heard of putting on dry filters oil or fuel untill i read it here
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Old 05-11-2015, 07:05 AM   #13
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i owned my own trucks and allways prefilled the filters before installing them never had a problem, in fact i have never heard of putting on dry filters oil or fuel untill i read it here
X2!!!! I do not know where they got that info, but in the 35+ years of owning trucks, I have never heard of putting on dry filters?? And as far as I know, Cummins do not have a pump, they were always on the Cat motors! So, watch when you go to the shop, and see what the mechanic's do? They pre-fill all the filters, oil and fuel!!!! Rail!
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Old 05-11-2015, 07:26 AM   #14
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Always fill the filters with fresh clean fuel before installing. Found on some were the filters at not next to each other to change the one, start engine and purge air. Then change the second one, run and purge.


Had a couple of Fire trucks with the Cummins 8.3 with three filters on them that were a bear to purge after filter changes. They did not have a electric boost pump on them. Manufacture most likely saved $50.00 on the cost of the chassis. They had a water separator and two spin on filters. You have to do the two spin on filters first run the engine. Then do the water separator filter. As soon as the engine fired you had to run it right up to a high idle speed to get the fuel pump to pull the fuel from the tank. Seem like it would drain back when you pulled the water separator filter off.
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