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Old 03-15-2014, 12:37 PM   #15
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Let me add my thanks for the update as well.
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Old 03-15-2014, 08:36 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Mekanic View Post
Let me ask when you took it off were are the bolts as tight as they needed to be or were some loose.?
I'm one bolt near the crack was tight but that many others close to it were not.
Actually, all the bolts near the rear of the engine (closest to rear main seal) seemed a bit loose. The bolt hole where the crack seemed to start from was actually quite loose.

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Old 03-18-2014, 09:37 PM   #17
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My money is on the loose bolts as the primary cause of the crack. Imagine the constant vibration put out by a diesel over a decade. I'm sure this is the reason. Whatever you bolt to a diesel, better be bolted down good.

I love cheap fixes. Congrats...
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Old 03-19-2014, 05:07 AM   #18
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My money is on the loose bolts as the primary cause of the crack. Imagine the constant vibration put out by a diesel over a decade. I'm sure this is the reason. Whatever you bolt to a diesel, better be bolted down good.

I love cheap fixes. Congrats...
Ha... yeah, cheap fixes... i think this might be the first!

Now I'm struggling through some issues with the exhaust hazing under no load at any rpm. I'm guessing an injector issue... always something with this thing.

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Old 03-19-2014, 06:35 PM   #19
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Ha... yeah, cheap fixes... i think this might be the first!

Now I'm struggling through some issues with the exhaust hazing under no load at any rpm. I'm guessing an injector issue... always something with this thing.

-cheers
With hot rodded setups, Water injection, fuel plate etc, would not be surprised if you have unusual issues.
There are better ways of gaining performance, such as purchasing the hp you want to start with instead of buying a cheap low power then trying to pump it up to a biggie. Seems the end is expensive. A resonator if they make one small enough for the 5.9 would be a good start, then a better turbo. Everyone I know with injection never uses water, they use windshield antifreeze as it will not clog the injectors.
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Old 03-19-2014, 07:56 PM   #20
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With hot rodded setups, Water injection, fuel plate etc, would not be surprised if you have unusual issues.
There are better ways of gaining performance, such as purchasing the hp you want to start with instead of buying a cheap low power then trying to pump it up to a biggie. Seems the end is expensive. A resonator if they make one small enough for the 5.9 would be a good start, then a better turbo. Everyone I know with injection never uses water, they use windshield antifreeze as it will not clog the injectors.
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Yeah... hot rodding motorhomes might be a mental illness... but man is it a hoot. There is nothing better when I'm on the road than getting passed by someone in their big fancy new motorhome at 75mph who then look in their rear view mirror to see this old turd right behind them or even passing them just for fun. It's what I live for... but like I said... it might be a mental illness.

I guess I would disagree that having a 20 year old set of injectors with some hazing issues is "unusual." Stuff gets old and wears out regardless... I would also disagree that there are better ways to get performance out of an old 12 valve cummins than a simple fuel plate swap and a boost regulator. Talk about cheap hp... obviously you need to make sure you have at least an idea of what you're getting in to though.

It is probably true that pumping up the power on an engine is bound to shorten it's service life... but that being said, at 85,000 miles this old motorhome will fall apart around the cummins long before a stock cummins would give up the ghost. I'm willing to trade a few of those extra miles I won't be able to use anyways for some horsepower. Besides, I doubt this engine is putting out much more than 275hp the way it's tuned(maybe 300 but I dunno)... in 2007 I think the 5.9 put out 350hp in the dodge trucks stock, and it's basically the same engine block albeit with a more sophisticated computerized fueling technology and more valves in the head. At the end of the day, these engines were built to produce big power, and for the most part detuned for specific applications and emissions. I wouldn't call the tune I have on this one "radical" by any stretch of the imagination. Boost is kept below 30psi, and EGT below 1250... it's all good.

Windshield washer fluid would be a good choice for water injection as the stuff that's rated for cold weather has methanol in it... which makes extra power. Whether or not it clogs the injection nozzles or not remains to be seen... I don't believe they used distilled water for making windshield washer fluid, so there may or may not be other minerals etc present. The problem with using windshield washer fluid is that we went through more than 40 gallons of water rolling across the desert southwest last summer (110) in one day's travel. I can't see buying 40 gallons of windshield washer fluid per day. That having been said, I did open up the exhaust on this after I had already installed the water injection... this cooled the egt down to the point where the water is pretty much not necessary... At this point, I could turn the pump up a little more to make some more power, or I could install a smaller tank just for a water/meth mix since I no longer need much water except maybe on long steep grades... or to produce more power with the meth... But I probably won't touch anything. It runs really good and I'm comfortable with how far I've pushed the power output. Any more and I might start to worry.

As far as the injectors go... the diesel injection shop down the road from me today said the hazing is common on old injectors. If I pull them out, they will test them for free to make sure the pop of pressure is set properly and to make sure they are spraying correctly. If they need adjusted or cleaned, etc, it's only $16 each plus any parts required. A remanufactured injector is only like $60... so hopefully this will work out to be a "cheap fix" also.

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Old 03-20-2014, 07:59 AM   #21
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I have the same illness about the wannabees running fast down hills and being in the way going up any slight grade. While running mountains, have only been passed .
As for the menthol or what ever is not for power, the washer fluid will not corrode the injectors as straight water certainly does.
Besides its all in fun, we are all looking for enjoyable toys.

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Old 03-20-2014, 08:02 AM   #22
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Got blipped off the above page as was saying only been passed on a mountain by a bobtail truck, never by even by an empty flat bed. Am obe of the slowest down mountains but under control.
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Old 03-20-2014, 10:05 AM   #23
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I have the same illness about the wannabees running fast down hills and being in the way going up any slight grade. While running mountains, have only been passed .
As for the menthol or what ever is not for power, the washer fluid will not corrode the injectors as straight water certainly does.
Besides its all in fun, we are all looking for enjoyable toys.

Cheers
Dave M
Water/methanol injection at 50/50 mix ratio will produce gobs of additional horsepower, similar to propane injection. You can't use straight methanol however, as water is needed to attenuate the burn of the methanol.

Regular windshield washer fluid that is rated for use down to -30 is something like 30% methanol i think. Not sure on the exact percentage... but lots of guys use it for additional horsepower.

I can definitely see where straight water could plug your water injection nozzles with lime and iron etc. I can also see where straight water could corrode the inside of a cast iron intake should water pool inside of it after the engine is shut off. This is why it's a good idea to shut the water injection down a good bit before you turn the engine off... to make sure the intake is dry. My injection nozzles are easily removed for cleaning should they get build up on them... though I have yet to see one plugged or restricted after about 8000 miles of water injection use. I suspect they will one day wear out just as everything else does...

One thing is for sure, if you're using water injection, be it water or windshield washer fluid or Snow's version of the water/meth mix, you can bet the inside of your cylinders will be completely spotless. It's like steam cleaning your engine. Actually, guys running veggie oil for fuel often use water injection for the sole purpose of keeping valves and cylinders clean of all the gunk that can build up inside an engine due to the stuff that's in veggie oil that gets left behind after the combustion process.

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Old 03-29-2014, 08:24 PM   #24
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Quick update on the injector issues I was having a few posts back... taking the old injectors out was a riot. After 20 years 2 of them were rusted solid to the sleeve nut that holds them in... I had to turn them out with an impact wrench which turned the whole injector and not just the nut. This totally destroyed the ball bearing that they use as a key to orientate the injector and also destroyed the body of the injector. I ended up just having the injection shop build me a remanufactured set of injectors with new tips and all is now well. The new ones went in in a fraction of the time it took to get the old ones out, and the hazing problem is gone... Idles nice and clean now. Just figured I'd update in case someone reading this also ran into this same problem.

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